Charlestown to Mevagissey Walk (South West Coast Path)

 

Coastal path closed....

We were starting from the harbour at Charlestown. As I suspected the SW Coastal Path was blocked off. If I had been alone I might well have attempted to go around, over or even under. Probably good then that I had my wife with me! A shame really as I would have liked to have seen the 'Crinnis Cliff Battery'. It was built in 1793 to house four cannons to  defending the entrance of the new harbour.

Under greyish skies but thankfully dry we made a detour out of Charlestown taking first left towards Porthpean. We pass Duporth , which again is closed off. The beach at Duporth is privately owned and I don't think they are welcoming to visitors? 

The walk today is going to be a challenge. I have seen words such as demanding, strenuous and roller-coaster used to describe it........ 10 miles of hard but picturesque walking lies ahead. 

 

It's a nice little beach at Porthpean and we get on to the coastal path for the first time.  

I'm wearing new boots for the first time today. It doesn't take me long to christen them. What I thought were leaves on the sole turned out to be something far more unpleasant...

Thankfully we cross a stream that helps to remove most of the offending mess.

The views are already spectacular looking up the coast towards 'Par' and even further 'Gribbin Head'.

The next part is where it starts to get really interesting. A huge descent is followed immediately by an even bigger climb. There are steps to help but nevertheless it is still challenging. The scenery gets even more spectacular and I can see where the 'roller-coaster analogy comes from. Just as we head towards sea level and It's back up through the valley. All totally exhilarating , although I'm not sure my wife would agree.  

We emerge unscathed, if a little a shaken ,well one of us anyway. We are now at Phoebe's Point. 

Another long footbridge takes us to Gwendra Point, Ropehaven and then the hamlet of Trenarren.  An Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) It was also the home of the Poet and Author A.L Rowse (1903-1997) in his retirement.

An English historian and writer who became one of the 20th century’s foremost authorities on Elizabethan England. 

The son of a labourer, Rowse was a brilliant student and won a scholarship to Christ Church College,Oxford in 1922. Where he lived and worked for the next 49 years as a teacher and historian.

There is a monument dedicated to him as we approach Black Head where the path forks.

To get to the tip of 'Black Head' means deviating from the path. It is well worth it though as the views in both directions are stunning.

Black Head is the site of an Iron Age Fort and is now owned by the National Trust. There are also the remains of a rifle range, built in the 1880s and modified in later years. 

I saw a Peregrine Falcon darting around the cliff tops too.  

There is a brief respite from the 'ups and downs' as we continue on the coastal path. We can see the path in the distance following the headland in the direction of Pentewan Beach.

We descend towards Hallane Mill Beach, a small, sheltered, south facing cove, only accessible by foot. The beach is overlooked by high cliffs known as 'The Vans' and a natural waterfall cascades onto the beach.

We pass through a wooded area and almost miss the wooden footbridge that leads steeply up to The Vans. We backtrack slightly and are back on course. 

The cows that were black and white specks in the distance from 'Black Head' are now up close and personal. There is another sharp climb before the sandy beach at Pentewan comes into view.

Pentewan provides a good place to stop off and have a break. A pasty and Diet Coke go down very well at 'The Piskey Cafe' . Marina decides that enough is enough and she will catch the bus into Mevagissey. I'm tempted as my new boots are giving me a few problems but decide to carry on. We say our farewells until we meet again. I walk through the very large Caravan site to the beach. The coast path is not obvious. I manage to reconnect off the beach instead of following the B3273.

Pentewan Beach

Yet another huge climb up the hillside , it takes a lot of effort but the views back to Pentewan make it all the more worthwhile.This is Penare Point on the map.  I took a photo off this from the road the next day just to illustrate how steep it was.

Mevagissey is getting ever closer and hopefully things will level out. Passing the Trevalsa Court Hotel I am almost there. 

There is a grassy area in front of some houses. From there it is a case of winding down into the harbour area and I have made it with a lot of relief! The distinctive twin harbour provides a safe haven for the many fishing boats that land their daily catch

Mevagissey is another old Cornish fishing village which is extremely popular with the tourists. Named after two Irish saints, St Meva and St Issey, the village dates back to at least 1313 and during the 1800s Mevagissey prospered on the back of the abundant source of pilchards out to sea.

 

The harbour is built on the site of a medieval quay. The first Act of Parliament allowing the new port to be built was passed in 1774. The inner harbour, consisting of the current East and West Quays, was constructed from this time. An outer harbour was added in 1888, but seriously damaged in a blizzard in 1891.

Mevagissey lighthouse was built in 1896 to mark the south breakwater that protects the small harbour.

 In 1880 there were around sixty fishing-boats engaged in the fishing industry. There are currently 63 registered fishing vessels in the harbour worked by 69 fishermen.

 

 It has been a fantastic walk, very testing at times but always enjoyable. Unsurprisingly after catching up with Marina we caught the Bus back to Charlestown. Not before enjoying a welcome pint of 'Proper Job'. As expected the total miles came in at a touch over 10 miles.