Charlestown & Walk to Carlyon Bay (South West Coast Path)

The Port of Charlestown

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Great to be back in Cornwall again, this time on the south coast and very close to St Austell. We are in last open 18th Century Georgian harbour in the UK and UNESCO world heritage site of Charlestown. It is as though we are being transported back in time!

Home for the next few days is a former Fisherman's converted 'Net Loft'. It would have been used for storing sails and fishing nets. It is   small and compact, but with everything you need for a comfortable stay. 

Charlestown is idyllic, with a beautiful harbour, magnificent sailing ships, a museum, ample restaurants, gift shops and a beach. 

The last time I was here it was raining and blowing a gale, fingers crossed for this visit. 

The Port of Charlestown is largely unspoiled.  It was constructed between 1791 and 1801 by Charles Rashleigh.  There is a a memorial on the harbour wall next to the 'life ring' to him. Also the local pub/restaurant is named after him. 

Originally built to export copper and import coal, it was soon being used for the export of China Clay. The harbour is still used today by local Fishermen.
 

Thankfully the area seems to have been largely ignored by developers. Tourism is key as well as the the movie and television industry.  

The boat pictured below is is a Greek trireme, a type of galley. Apparently it was built for the film 'Clash of the Titans'. It has been as far as the Canary Islands for filming. It appears to be 'resting' between roles at the moment.

Many other films that have used Charlestown as a location including; Tim Burton's 'Alice in Wonderland', 'The Eagle has Landed', Mel Gibson's 'Apocalypto' and 'The Three Musketeers'.

The small screen has been here too with Doctor Who and more recently the hit series 'Poldark'.     

Time for a bit of exercise and to seek out the South West Coast Path. We pick it up close to the harbour and head out for a short walk towards Carlyon Bay.

 It's an uphill start but a pleasant one,with views to the right a far as the 'Black Head' peninsular

 

 

We soon arrive at the Coastwatch Station at Landrion Point. It is open every day of the year looking out over the Bay of St Austell. It is a two story building with a flagstaff. An NCI Flag and a Union Flag are flown when the station is open. 

St Austell Bay Map

 

Having walked from 'Par' to 'Carlyon Bay' a few years ago my memories are not great.... I remember it as something of a building site. It doesn't look as though much has changed sadly.
Once the home of the "Cornwall Coliseum", a huge entertainment venue that sat out of place on the beach. 

The Coliseum closed its doors for the last time in 2003, after which time it became something of a decaying eyesore.

There are numerous Security Guards around , and various fenced off areas. There is also a huge pile of rocks that I presume will be used for sea defence? In short what should be a real 'Beauty Spot' has been defaced. 

We venture down to the beach a stretch of almost 2 miles of coarse sand. Actually it isn't really sand but "stent", a mixture of waste from the tin and china clay industries

A couple of hardy souls have stripped off and made it into the sea. There does seem to be a growing trend for this kind of thing I've noticed. Good for the circulation apparently and boosts the immune system. I'm taking no chances keeping all four layers firmly intact.Although I did relent and undo my outer jacket.

Time is ticking on and we make the same journey back to Charlestown. It is only a short walk but I have at least joined up another part of the South West Coast path. 

Back in Charlestown we find somewhere to eat. Unfortunately they only have the dreaded 'Doom Bar' on tap... I give it a miss as it doesn't agree with me. I will wait for a nice pint of 'Tribute' or 'Proper Job'  later.