St Ives - Cornwall 2026

 

Porthminster Beach

It is a clearing picture as we arrive on the train in St Ives. There are hints that the sun might break through. We have opted for the 'Park and Ride' from St Erth, although I seem to have paid for the train travel on top of the car parking.It is only a short journey, but very picturesque. On the right hand side there are stunning sea views and sandy beaches. I have been once before but memories are all a bit hazy. We have all day to explore so hoping to make the most of the visit this time. 

St Ives Harbour

St Ives is one of Cornwall's most attractive towns. Intricate,busy streets bordered by beautiful beaches. Incredibly busy during the peak Summer season. Famous for Artists and galleries, not to mention the overly attentive Seagulls. Hang on to your Chips and Pasties very carefully. We make our way from the Railway Station down Tregenna Hill towards the harbour. Once dependent on the Fishing industry, it was one of the most important fishing ports on the north Cornish coast. Now though very much in decline and reliant on tourism. The harbour though is still very much in use. The town has four beaches: Porthmeor a surfing beach, Porthgwidden a small sandy cove, Harbour by the working port and Porthminster which has almost half a mile of sand.

Hungry Seagull

 

Smeatons Pier Memorial

Turnstones on the Harbour edge

We are making our way albeit slowly towards Porthmeor Beach. There are several Turnstones along the waterfront, very tame and easier work eating crumbs than sifting through rocks and shells on the shore. Porthmeor is a fantastic Atlantic facing beach on the doorstep of Tate St Ives. 

Porthmeor Beach

It is a stunning beach, plenty of Surfers out today. A perfect spot to stop and enjoy the view. I wanted to have a look inside the Tate St Ives, however the entry price was a bit off putting given our limited time. We opt to visit the Cafe and Gift Shop inside instead. If I happened to wander into the gallery that would be unfortunate.... The Tate St Ives was built between 1988 and 1993 on the site of an old gasworks overlooking the beach. he gallery opened in June 1993, the second of the Tate's regional galleries after Tate Liverpool. A very nice but expensive cup of Green tea was enjoyed. I did enquire having a 'top up' but the request was declined. I did purchase a bookmark from thee gift shop though as a souvenir. I did walk into the gallery leaving the Gift Shop but was quickly intercepted by an elderly lady with a ticket machine. I made my excuses about looking for the wife and made a swift exit.. Time to get some more walking in , the buildings on top of 'the island'  look worth exploring.

View from The Island over Porthmeor

St Nicholas Chapel

Standing at the top of St Ives Head, or The Island next to the National Coastwatch Institution (NCI) is quite inspiring. I am reminded of the famous 'St Ives Light'. I have already been reprimanded in one gallery after saying the light was poor today. They are usual in reference to bright, light blue sea and golden sands.However the good people of St Ives and the staff of the Tate have created their own colour chart (pictured left). All the colours are named after things synonymous with Cornwall and the St Ives are. There are names such as, 'Teetotal Street', 'Hurling the Silver Ball' and 'Ale at the Sloop'.(Cornwall's oldest harbour Inn).   St Nicholas Chapel sits on top of The Island in St Ives overlooking the bay, beaches and out to the rolling Atlantic. The tiny Chapel can hold around 10 people. Sadly it wasn't open for viewing, but it does open for short periods. St Nicholas is the patrol saint of sailors,and the Chapel probably dates back to 1434, when the church of St Eia (the parish church) was built in town. St Eia is also known as 'La of Cornwall'. A 5th or 6th Century missionary Princess and indeed Martyr, who is the Patron Saint of St Ives. Hopefully that clears all that up! 

We wind our way back past the Tate St Ives towards the town. My goodness there are some steep streets to negotiate. All of which is very thirsty work. We call into a local micro brewery shop, the owner is a bit snooty about me asking to eat my sandwich. Didn't like the cut of his jib much so only had a half. A couple told us of a much better place to drink 'The Pilchard Press' if we could find it, and it was open. There is a music festival today and we take time to watch a couple of local performs who made a nice sound. It took several attempts to find 'The Pilchard Press'. Hidden away up a side street off the harbour and literally behind a load of bins. Our timing was perfect though as it had just opened at 4 PM.It's a quaint little place serving traditional local Ales straight from the barrel. Obviously a popular place as within minutes it had filled up! On the rear wall is a mural depicting life and characters in the town, and there is a ‘window’ with a webcam showing the harbour outside.Well worth a visit if you are in the area.

 

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A few photos from out and about in Brighton

 

West Pier Brighton

It's a bit grey, and a bit drizzly but we have time to kill before the Marillion concert later this evening. Only my second ever visit to the city after completing 'The London to Brighton' cycle ride in 1994. That didn't end well either...An opportunity to explore a little around Brighton or 'London on Sea' as it is sometimes called. One of the most iconic images (at least for me) are the skeletal remains of the historic West Pier.First opened in 1866 was the first Grade I listed pier in England. It closed to the public in 1975 and went into dramatic decline. Storm damage and arson attacks have left it beyond repair. The ghostly image sits abandoned off shore. A nostalgic reminder of the 1860's Victorian heyday for the construction of piers. 

 

View from Brighton Palace Pier

After all the hot weather this Summer today is grey and drizzly. Having viewed the West Pier it was only right to walk along the functioning 'Palace Pier'. Constructed in 1899, the third pier to be constructed in Brighton after the 'Royal Suspension Chain Pier' and West Pier. Sadly the Theatre is no longer . closing down in 1986. It is now just an amusement park in the ocean.  It is popular though with millions of visitors. As a big fan of the 'Carry On films' I can tell you that 'Carry on at your Convenience' was filmed here in 1971.  It is 1,722 feet (525 m) long and contains 85 miles (137 km) of planking.   

Wall mural tribute 'Fat Boy Slim'

Back on 'dry land' we pass the iconic 'Grand Hotel'. 'The original Palace by the Sea'. It opened in 1864 and has classic Victorian architecture. It is easily the most expensive Hotel in Brighton and was designed for the upper classes. It hit the headlines in 1984 when the IRA tried to assassinate the then Prime  Minister 'Margaret Thatcher. During the Conservative Party Conference a bomb was detonated causing terrible devastation and loss of life. In one of the side streets I spot a wall mural for Brighton's favourite son 'Fatboy Slim'.  Born Quentin Leo Cooke, better known as 'Norman Cooke'. A musician and DJ and original Bass player for the band 'The Housemartins'. These days he is much in demand for Festivals  all over the world , as well as producing. Dance and House music isn't my bag so I can't tell you much more sadly. 

Brighton i360

The Brighton i360 is an imposing sight. A moving observation tower located on the seafront. Standing at a 162-metre (531 ft) moving the tower opened on 4 August 2016. From the fully enclosed viewing pod, visitors experience 360-degree views across Brighton, the South Downs and the English Channel. It was pretty much designed and developed by the same team responsible for the 'London Eye'. Formerly known as the British Airways i360 for sponsorship purposes, the project originally aimed to attract 739,000 paying customers every year. We won't be going up today though with the weather being as it is. instead we take a wander through 'The Lanes', lots of narrow lanes full of small and mostly independent shops. 'The upside down house'  catches the eye. Apparently visitors can walk on the ceiling! It is not suitable for people with Vertigo, mobility impairments or pregnant women. Otherwise go and impress your friends with some unique photos. Talking of unique and strangely weird. ... I have spotted the same individual three times now wearing a road cone as acceptable head-wear. With his ghetto blaster blaring you really can't miss him. Nobody (except me) seems to even notice him. Maybe they are used to him as a regular feature.

Jubilee Clock Tower

It has certainly been an entertaining walk through Brighton. But we now have to get to the Marillion gig at the nearby Dome.

Marillion - The Dome Brighton

The Dome Brighton

Haunt The Woods

Marillion at the Brighton Dome, the perfect excuse for a weekend in Brighton. It has been a grey and drizzly Sunday. We have been on the Pier and sampled a local hostelry as we head to the venue. The support band had already started at 7PM as we took to our seats in the lower stalls. The last seats on the row that adjoin the Lower Circle. Pretty good as we won't be disturbed by latecomers or those needing to use the facilities. Something that seems to have become more of an issue, particularly with the older male audience. Hailing from the South West, Haunt the Woods have been around since 2016. I suppose they would be described as alternative Rock in the Radiohead sense. The four piece band made a good sound and were well received by an appreciative audience.  

It is an all seated venue tonight sometimes that can affect the atmosphere at times the audience subdued and comfortable. This is the second night of the tour after Portsmouth previously. The epic and somewhat emotive 'Gaza' sets things off from 'Sounds That Can't be Made'. Followed by 'Seasons End' and 'You're Gone'. Hogarth gives an update on the much anticipated new album. 'It will definitely be finished by the end of the century' he confidently predicts. 'Just as we start to make progress we go out on tour'. In the meantime we get a song from the new album 'Ribbons and Lace' to whet our appetites. 

'H' and 'Rothers'

We get a tease of 'Hotel Hobbies' before one of my favourites' Afraid of Sunlight' gets an airing. With no new album to promote there is room for a few set list rarities. 'Enlightened' and 'Built in Bastard Radar' from the 'Marillion.com' album would certainly as obscure live songs. The previous album 'An Hour Before It's Dark' is well represented with the full 'Care' combination. Followed by the 'Crow and The Nightingale'. They always go down well because of the obvious meaning to many people. Probably the highlight of the night was 'Easter' which is pretty much a staple for any Marillion concert.I never get tired of hearing the Guitar solo  from Steve Rothery (pictured left). More rarities follow in the form of 'Wave' and 'Mad' from the Brave album. I get the feeling that 'Hogarth' isn't too keen on the all seater venues. 'It feels like 'I've been up here for a fortnight' he quips. There are a few strange ramblings about 'Fiona Bruce' , but even he isn't quite sure?? 

It's all good fun though and before we know it the band are taking their leave from the stage. At some stage the final ending for the band will inevitably happen. Drummer Ian Mosley is in his 70's. But on the evidence of tonight there is plenty of life in these band for now. They are an enigma in many ways, always under the radar. To the uninitiated mention the name Marillion and you usually get the response of , oh 'Kayleigh' or is 'Fish' still singing. Like the finest of wines they have aged and matured to a perfection. Don't all the best bands ? Rush, Purple , Floyd, to name but a few who have stood the test of time. 

The band return with an encore consisting of 'The Release' and from 'Clutching at Straws and the 'Fish' era 'Sugar Mice'. A good venue, excellent sound but maybe lacking slightly in atmosphere? They leave us though very much looking forward to the new album. Hopefully a lot nearer than the end of the century!

 

 

  

The John Bunyan Trail (18) Ampthill

Bunyan Trail logo

We have reached the penultimate leg of the 'Bunyan Trail walk' We are starting at the beautiful Ampthill Park . Set in 160 acres of parkland and woodland it is an impressive sight. There is a lot going on too in and around the park. Down the road the local Rugby Club are taking on the mighty Saracens later in the day. Closer to home there is a Park Cafe, Tennis Courts and a Cricket Pitch. The walk today will cut right across the park and take us through Ampthill Town Centre. We will be walking in an anti-clockwise direction past the railway line. The first point of interest is a large stone boulder dedicated to Muriel K Jones. It is one of seven erected on the Greensand Ridge Walk by Mid Bedfordshire Council. A commemoration of the Golden Jubilee of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II in 2002. It is also a national important historic site. Henry VIII enjoyed his passion for hunting here. Many of the trees were planted by Lancelot 'Capability' Brown in the 18th century. Much to take in and enjoy for sure. 

Millbrook  St Micheal  and All Angels

We are very close to Millbrook Circuit. High up on the Greensand Ridge is the church of St Michael and All Angels. Interesting facts coming up! It is believed to be the fourth highest working church in England, and the fourth smallest parish church in the UK.

Greensand Ridge

 

Relaxing Pigs

We move through a lovely woodland area of the Greensand Ridge. We are also close to the big Woburn Forest Center Parcs site. Over the hedge are three very large pigs enjoying a mud bath. We make our way steadily towards the town. Ampthill is an Anglo Saxon name which literally means 'ant infested hill'. Well there aren't any Ants around today , infested or otherwise.

The metal gate for the local Bowls Club looks quite interesting. An 'ABC' monogram with an animal motif. In 1542 an Act of Parliament created the 'Honour of Ampthill', an area of 45 parishes around the town, including 11 in Buckinghamshire. in which the crown owned extensive property and the manorial rights. The Honour was sold to the Dukes of Bedford in parts between 1730 and 1881. Ampthill is one of the most expensive places to buy a house in Bedfordshire, even in comparison with other mid-Bedfordshire towns such as neighbouring Flitwick, and Cranfield. So best to keep that in mind. We continue in a northerly direction on the John Bunyan Trail. In the distance there are the remains of Houghton House. I have blogged about visiting HH from a previous visit. As a brief refresher for those who can't be bothered to search for it . A shell of a building dating from the 17th century. It is believed to be the inspiration for Bunyan's 'House Beautiful' in his 'Pilgrim's Progress. Built around 1615 for Mary, Dowager Countess of Pembroke. A mixture of Jacobean and Classical styles.

Houghton House

St Katherine's Cross

We arrive back in Ampthill Park via Laurel Woods. There are two historic monuments which warrant closer attention. The Memorial Cross is dedicated to 707 officers and men of the Bedfordshire Regiment who trained at the local First World War Ampthill Camp and lost their lives during the Great War of 1914–1918. By my reckoning that is one in three who died. The other is a Gothic Revival monument erected in 1773 to commemorate Catherine of Aragon and the site of the former Ampthill Castle. Down below a very competitive cricket match is taking place with no quarter given. 

Katherine's Cross gained additional fame in the 1980's. Artist Kit Williams buried his 18 carat Golden Hare at the base of the cross. He wrote the book 'Masquerade' which was essentially a treasure hunt and clues to the mystery location somewhere in the UK.It was something that really caught the imagination of the public as I recall. 

The car park has now filled up , certainly from when we arrived earlier in the morning. A very enjoyable walk as always , total distance 9.5 miles.