The John Bunyan Trail (18) Ampthill

Bunyan Trail logo

We have reached the penultimate leg of the 'Bunyan Trail walk' We are starting at the beautiful Ampthill Park . Set in 160 acres of parkland and woodland it is an impressive sight. There is a lot going on too in and around the park. Down the road the local Rugby Club are taking on the mighty Saracens later in the day. Closer to home there is a Park Cafe, Tennis Courts and a Cricket Pitch. The walk today will cut right across the park and take us through Ampthill Town Centre. We will be walking in an anti-clockwise direction past the railway line. The first point of interest is a large stone boulder dedicated to Muriel K Jones. It is one of seven erected on the Greensand Ridge Walk by Mid Bedfordshire Council. A commemoration of the Golden Jubilee of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II in 2002. It is also a national important historic site. Henry VIII enjoyed his passion for hunting here. Many of the trees were planted by Lancelot 'Capability' Brown in the 18th century. Much to take in and enjoy for sure. 

Millbrook  St Micheal  and All Angels

We are very close to Millbrook Circuit. High up on the Greensand Ridge is the church of St Michael and All Angels. Interesting facts coming up! It is believed to be the fourth highest working church in England, and the fourth smallest parish church in the UK.

Greensand Ridge

 

Relaxing Pigs

We move through a lovely woodland area of the Greensand Ridge. We are also close to the big Woburn Forest Center Parcs site. Over the hedge are three very large pigs enjoying a mud bath. We make our way steadily towards the town. Ampthill is an Anglo Saxon name which literally means 'ant infested hill'. Well there aren't any Ants around today , infested or otherwise.

The metal gate for the local Bowls Club looks quite interesting. An 'ABC' monogram with an animal motif. In 1542 an Act of Parliament created the 'Honour of Ampthill', an area of 45 parishes around the town, including 11 in Buckinghamshire. in which the crown owned extensive property and the manorial rights. The Honour was sold to the Dukes of Bedford in parts between 1730 and 1881. Ampthill is one of the most expensive places to buy a house in Bedfordshire, even in comparison with other mid-Bedfordshire towns such as neighbouring Flitwick, and Cranfield. So best to keep that in mind. We continue in a northerly direction on the John Bunyan Trail. In the distance there are the remains of Houghton House. I have blogged about visiting HH from a previous visit. As a brief refresher for those who can't be bothered to search for it . A shell of a building dating from the 17th century. It is believed to be the inspiration for Bunyan's 'House Beautiful' in his 'Pilgrim's Progress. Built around 1615 for Mary, Dowager Countess of Pembroke. A mixture of Jacobean and Classical styles.

Houghton House

St Katherine's Cross

We arrive back in Ampthill Park via Laurel Woods. There are two historic monuments which warrant closer attention. The Memorial Cross is dedicated to 707 officers and men of the Bedfordshire Regiment who trained at the local First World War Ampthill Camp and lost their lives during the Great War of 1914–1918. By my reckoning that is one in three who died. The other is a Gothic Revival monument erected in 1773 to commemorate Catherine of Aragon and the site of the former Ampthill Castle. Down below a very competitive cricket match is taking place with no quarter given. 

Katherine's Cross gained additional fame in the 1980's. Artist Kit Williams buried his 18 carat Golden Hare at the base of the cross. He wrote the book 'Masquerade' which was essentially a treasure hunt and clues to the mystery location somewhere in the UK.It was something that really caught the imagination of the public as I recall. 

The car park has now filled up , certainly from when we arrived earlier in the morning. A very enjoyable walk as always , total distance 9.5 miles.

Oxford Trip Day 2 - Botanic Garden, Randolph Hotel, Museum of Natural History and Pitt Rivers Museum

 

 

A good nights sleep followed by a hearty breakfast courtesy of 'The Hungry Horse' sets us up for day 2 in Oxford. Once again we walk in to the City, a bit cloudy but still very warm. We are passing the Botanical Garden so no reason not to pop in. I remember coming here many years ago and entry was free. Times change though and now it is £10 to get in. Money well spent though I suspect, as we collect our free map. The oldest Botanic Gard in GB too with over 5,000 different plant species. The garden was founded in 1621 as a physic garden for medicinal research.We start our tour by walking along the border with the River Cherwell.The northeast corner of Christ Church Meadow, belonging to Magdalen College. We were just on the other side of the sports pitches yesterday, when we had our picnic.

Walled Garden

The garden is made up of three sections. the Walled Garden, surrounded by the original seventeenth-century stonework and home to the Garden's oldest tree; an English Yew (taxus bacata). In the background the Magdalen Tower oversees all that is going on. The walled garden is made up of deep borders with leafy shrubs, ornamental grasses and deciduous trees.

There are seven glasshouses, which allow the cultivation of plants needing protection from the extremes of British weather. We travel the world as we move from one to another, from the jungle to the desert  and alpine regions. The first greenhouse was built at the Botanic Garden more than 300 years ago. I believe there are plans  for more too. Some of the larger exhibits are literally pushing the glass up. 

Agave Salmiana

Giant Water Lillies

The Water Lily house is great fun and was constructed in 1850-1851 custom-built for the giant Amazonian water lily (Victoria amazonica). The pond also hosts the stunning day-blooming Nymphaea x daubenyana, a hybrid water lily first propagated at Oxford Botanical Gardens in 1874.Other plants include,  water lettuce (Pistia stratiotes) and flowering water lilies(Nymphaea).The Lower Garden holds ornamental collections. In the far corner, Lyra's bench is a popular place of pilgrimage for many Garden visitors. It is a significant location in Philip Pullman’s ‘His Dark Materials’ trilogy in which the characters, Lyra and Will, meet between their respective worlds.

The Randolph Hotel

The Morse Bar

Leaving the beautiful Botanic Garden we make our way up the High Street, passing University College. We grab a quick look at the quadrangle of reputedly the oldest college in Oxford, founded in 1249. The college has historical connections with luminaries such as Percy Bysshe Shelley and Stephen Hawking. We also visit the very impressive covered market with its wide variety of independent shops. Our destination though is the splendid 'Randolph Hotel situated opposite the Ashmolean Museum on  the corner of Beaumont Street and Magdalen Street. Opened in 1866 the Victorian Gothic building is famous for the 'Inspector Morse' link. Featuring in the television series several times. The cast would often stay during filming. We enjoyed a very civilised pint of Guinness and a large Latte in extreme comfort on the leather upholstery.  

Hertford Bridge - Bridge of Sighs

It was a short hop across to New College Lane to see the 'Bridge of Sighs' at Hertford College. Designed by Architect Sir Thomas Graham Jackson and completed in 1914. Ironically the design has more in common with the Rialto Bridge in Venice then the Bridge of Sighs. We cut back to Broad street where lively sounds are coming from the street market. It seemed the done thing to have some 'street food' into the bargain. The 'Chili Chicken' went down very well I must say. Suitably refreshed we continue to the Bodleian Library. The picture left shows the Old Schools Quadrangle., part of the Bodleian Old Library. The facade shows the distinctive Tower of the Five orders and Gothic- Jacobean architecture. (Below,left)

Old Schools Quadrangle

An 'order' is a classic design system. They are listed as follows, Tuscan, Doric, Ionic, Corinthian and Composite. A real mixture of, Roma, Greek, fancy, decorative and complex in styling. Corinthian being the most ornate, with Tuscan the plainest but sturdiest.  

Parts of the 'Harry Potter' film series were set in the Bodleian Library. (Philosophers Stone and Goblet of Fire). Serving as icon Hogwarts locations.

There is something about the 'Radcliffe Camera' (left) that appeals to me.Maybe it is the English Palladian and Baroque styling. Built some time between 1737 and 1749 it serves as a reading room for the Bodleian Library.  It sits directly between Brasenose College and All Souls College. It is literally in the heart of Oxford.  

We walk along Parks Road to our final ports of call. Several University Colleges line the route. Along the way I spot an interesting door that called for closer inspection. It is a piece of public artwork 'A Door for the Stuart Gates'. A collaboration between sculptor Antony Gormely and UK Poet Laureate 'Simon Armitage'. At first glance it looks like a rusty iron door. Look closely and you see a human shaped cut-out in the centre. 

The Simon Armitage poem 'Hinge' is engraved into the metal surface. The door will change colour as it becomes weathered over the fullness of time. Look through the spy-hole and you are treated to a view of the 'Quad Garden' and back lawns of Trinity College. It would have been easy to just walk past and the door go unnoticed.

We cross over the road and the Neo-Gothic frontage of the Museum of Natural History comes into view. Established in 1860 to to collate scientific studies from across the University of Oxford. The exhibit highlights would have to be the three Oxfordshire Dinosaurs. In the late 18th century 'Megalosaurus Bucklandii' was found locally in Stonesfield in the Cotswolds. A nine metre long Jurassic carnivore. Over the next two decades, several more enormous bones were found at Stonesfield. Another museum favourite is the famous 'Oxford Dodo'. The only surviving remains of Dodo soft tissue anywhere in the world!

Pitts River Museum

At the rear of the museum is the entrance to the Pitt Rivers museum. Amazingly both museums are free entry, although a donation is welcomed. There are over half a million exhibits from all over the world. It was founded in 1884 when General Pitt Rivers a very influential figure gave his collection to the university. I've been told there is also display of 'shrunken heads' which I'm looking forward too. Set on three floors the collections are almost impossible to describe such is the enormity . There is just so much to take in and admire. There is a 37 feet tall (11.36 metres)Haida totem pole which rises to the ceiling. You really could spend a whole day in here to do it justice. Still no 'shrunken heads' though. In desperation I ask for directions... Unfortunately they have been removed no reason was given. 

Time is getting on and we need to get back to Headington to pick up the car. We have a slow walk back through Oxford stopping for tea and a cake en route. We save our legs though and catch the bus back.It has been a wonderful tow days in the university city that has so much to offer.  

Of course no visit to Headington would be complete without viewing the ;Headington Shark'. A sculpture of a large shark embedded head first through the roof of a house..The shark first appeared on 9 August 1986 and was seen as a protest against bombs.  

In 2022 Oxford City Council made the sculpture a heritage site. It hasn't been an easy ride though with lots of planning issues along the way.

Oxford Trip Day 1- Ashmolean Museum, Christ Church Meadows & River Cherwell

A Birthday weekend in Oxford and much to look forward to. We are staying just outside the City in Headington, a shortish walk or Bus Ride in. As It's a lovely day we decide to walk after dropping the car off at the Guest House. It's a pleasant enough walk as we pass Brookes University Campus, and then Headington Hill Park. As we get closer to the centre there is a noticeable change in the architecture as we approach Magdalen Bridge spanning the River Cherwell. The first known reference to a bridge goes back to 1004. A very busy tourist area that leads to the High Street. The picture on the left shows a Bus coming away from the City. In the background with the 15th Century Magdalen Tower in the background.   It is a bell Tower that forms part of Magdalen College. One of the oldest parts of the College. The Tower is famed for the May 1st celebrations where Choristers sing very early morning hymns. To the left of the Bridge are the Botanical Gardens which we hope to visit at some stage.

University Church of St Mary the Virgin

We continue up the High Street passing the Church picture above. Dated back to the 13th Century it was the original meeting place for University Administrators. 'The Martyr's Memorial (left) is 19th Century Victorian Gothic commemorating the 16th Century Protestant Oxford Martyrs. It is located at the junction of St Giles, Magdalen and Beaumont Street. It is the latter that we need as we head for the Ashmolean Museum. 

After a brief refreshment stop at 'The Four Candles' we arrive at the impressive neo-classical entrance. The Ashmolean is the first University Museum and Britain's first public museum. Incredibly entrance to the museum is free! Of course, a donation is always welcomed. Founded in 1683 the collections include, Ancient Greek marbles, Egyptian Mummies, Contemporary and Modern Art  and countless other interesting artefacts. There are always Exhibitions on display , although there is usually a cost to visit these. Some of my highlights of many are pictured below.  

Hunt in the Forest - Paolo Uccello

The Forest Fire - Piero Di Cosimo

'Sleeping Eros' is part of  the 'Arundel Marbles' collection. They were a private collection donated by Thomas Howard 21st Earl of Arundel in the early seventeenth century. The winged God Eros is depicted leaning with hiss torch facing downwards n a classical symbol representing sleep or the passage into death. 'The Forest Fire' is an oil-on-panel painting   dating to 1505. It shows a landscape in panic as a blazing fire drives the animals and humans together. It is very relevant to the fires we are currently experiencing due to the heatwaves in the UK. The work depicts the human relationship with nature. A mixture of fantasy creatures and realistic ones is quite dramatic. The other painting 'Hunt in the Forest' (1470) is of the renaissance period. A brilliant example of the 'vanishing point' or linear perspective. The painting was featured in an episode of the TV series 'Lewis'. I could spend all day here, but time to move on towards the river. Walking down St Aldates we pass the striking Christ Church College.Founded in 1546 by Henry VIII.A constituent College,  a joint foundation of the university and the cathedral of the Oxford diocese,

Christ Church Meadows

We follow the crowds into Christ Church Meadows, owned by Christ Church. The Great Tower of Merton College Chapel looms large over the walled garden. Completed in 1450 as part of the massive College Chapel. The meadow is a triangular shape, to one side is the River Thames, although in this part it is known as the Isis. The Meadow building at Christ Church is very popular with visitors and is the paying entrance to Christ Church. We walk to the boundary with the Botanical Gardens, stopping for a picnic. Various water craft are making there way along the Cherwell. Punts , Pedalos and Rowing Boats can all be hired from the Magdalen Bridge Boathouse. Some having more success than others.There is however a chauffeured punting service. available! The cost for a chauffeured punt ride is £50 per 30 mins.   

We take the path to the right which will eventually loop back towards the city. There is a smashing view to  our right though. A view of the Oxford skyline, the Meadow building seen from Christ Church Meadow. The path takes us back via The Isis where bigger craft are on the water. A few party boats and one with a Jazz Band playing 'When the Saints go Marching in' of course.We bump into a couple of friends of hours who literally live just around the corner from us in Moulton. We arrive back at the 'Head of The River' public house by Folly Bridge. The bridge apparently stands at the site of the ford over which oxen could be driven across the Isis.

 

Leaving the river behind our last port of call for today at least will be Oxford Castle and Prison.It's a case of a quick view as getting towards closing time. It's a partially ruined 11th century Norman castle. It actually operated as a prison until 1996. It was originally built in 1071 for William the Conqueror. The rectangular structure at the back in the photo is the St George's  Tower. The structure is the Debtor's Tower. It has been quite a day! High time for another Birthday celebratory Beer I think!