Newquay to Perranporth - SWCP Walk

 

Crossing the Gannel Estuary

Really looking forward to the walk today on the SWCP. I've had to wait for low tide in order to cross the Gannel Estuary. The estuary separates Newquay from the village of Crantock. This is when miles of sand are exposed. During the Summer months a Ferry service operates, this is not an option in mid September. The plane was to leave from the Fern Pit Cafe, a popular starting point where you would normally catch the ferry. Walking down the steep path it turns out that the gate is padlocked as of yesterday. ...Closing off that particular option. There are other options though. Walking along Riverside Avenue into Penmere Drive another path descends to the Gannel. A footbridge can be used 3-4 hours either side of low water. It wasn't needed for long as the water soon turns turns to sand firm enough to walk on. 

What started out as a misty grey day improves over on the Crantock side as the cloud starts to lift. The route I have taken is the official route of the SWCP (Penpol Crossing) so that's not a bad thing. Crantock is a vast expanse of golden sand backed by sand dunes, and another good surfing beach. The narrow footpath winds through the hedgerows where Stonechats are perched. Crantock Beach merges into an area called West Pentire. A small hamlet that is a designated plant area for Marigolds and Poppies especially. The Stonechats are even more evident in the fields. Passing Pentire Point West I am heading towards Polly Joke Beach.  

At Polly Joke

'Polly Joke' is officially called 'Porth Joke'. Originally the bay was called ‘Pol Lejouack,’ meaning ‘Jackdaw Cove’ supposedly sounding a little like “Polly Joke.”. This small but beautiful north-west facing cove is a well hidden gem with its sandy beach,  turquoise sea, and craggy cliff-faces.

 

Kelsey Head

 

Between 'Polly Joke' and Holywell Bay lies 'Kelsey Head'. It is a good area for Seal spotting. There is a lovely small cove that is perfect as the public can't access it. A Warden is keeping watch as a Seal Pup around three weeks old is being tended to by the mother. A large male has made its way onto the sand too. Unfortunately the youngster is just around the corner and out of shot. In the sea there are several Seal heads bobbing about which is great to see. Moving round a bit further there are four more Seals bathing on a large rock out in the sea. There is also a family of Choughs flying around he headland as Holywell Bay comes into view.    

A Cornish Chough

I had only previously seen Choughs around Trevose Head in Cornwall. The are considered as quite rare, although numbers are recovering through conservation work. Previously they were thought to have died out in 1973. As the only crow with a red bill and red legs, the all-black Chough is easy to identify. The Chough is the symbol of Cornwall - it is on the Coat of Arms and, according to legend, King Arthur turned into a Chough on his death. Lets hope that they continue to prosper and become a common site on the cliffs of Cornwall again.It certainly is a great part of the walk between 'Polly Joke and 'Holywell Bay'.The latter has just come into view, a mile-long golden beach with large sand dunes and rugged headlands. There are several Clouded Yellow Butterflies who seem to enjoy the coastal cliffs habitat. I could walk along the beach but stick to the official route through the sand dunes.Harder work of course, something of a roller-coaster ride.

Direction signpost at Holywell

Holywell is a beautiful Bay and has been used regularly as a filming location for the BBC TV series 'Poldark'. Doubling as the 'Warleggan Coast' and featuring the iconic twin 'Gull Rocks'. In the distance there is a steep climb ahead as the headland rises. But for now I'm just glad to get out of the sand dunes. Even then there is still a detour to pick up the SWCP. As the path sweeps round there is an abandoned Army base. This is Penhale Camp, established in 1939 north of the dunes as a World War II emergency measure to train anti-arcraft gunners. Evidence of the gun sites, searchlight batteries and defensive positions, such as pillboxes and trenches, still remain today.The camp was closed in 2010, when, after seven decades of MoD occupation, Penhale became surplus to requirements.

Perran Sands

Rounding Penhale point out towards Ligger Point there is a panoramic view of Perran Sands. 

Two miles of golden sands await,  however I once again opt for the sand dunes route, the official path. If I thought Holywell was difficult then this is another level. At low tide it links up with the beach at Perranporth for an even more impressive sight. I was hoping to find St Piran's Cross amongst the dunes. Unfortunately no such sighting on this occasion. The dunes are so high in places the sound of the sea is blocked out, complete silence. A strange experience for sure. The end is near now though as the beach at Perranporth is within touching distance.

Perranporth Beach

The walk is complete ! Just as stunning and spectacular as I had anticipated. Very tough in parts but extremely satisfying as always. A rich mixture of views, relaxation, exercise and general wellbeing. There is also a sense of escapism. 

There is always something of interest that is for sure. Perhaps with hindsight I should have walked on the beach rather than the dunes. It matters not now though and there is  strong sense of achievement. I'm ready for a pint or two now that is for sure!

In total a distance of 12.5 miles have been covered.

St Ives - Cornwall 2026

 

Porthminster Beach

It is a clearing picture as we arrive on the train in St Ives. There are hints that the sun might break through. We have opted for the 'Park and Ride' from St Erth, although I seem to have paid for the train travel on top of the car parking.It is only a short journey, but very picturesque. On the right hand side there are stunning sea views and sandy beaches. I have been once before but memories are all a bit hazy. We have all day to explore so hoping to make the most of the visit this time. 

St Ives Harbour

St Ives is one of Cornwall's most attractive towns. Intricate,busy streets bordered by beautiful beaches. Incredibly busy during the peak Summer season. Famous for Artists and galleries, not to mention the overly attentive Seagulls. Hang on to your Chips and Pasties very carefully. We make our way from the Railway Station down Tregenna Hill towards the harbour. Once dependent on the Fishing industry, it was one of the most important fishing ports on the north Cornish coast. Now though very much in decline and reliant on tourism. The harbour though is still very much in use. The town has four beaches: Porthmeor a surfing beach, Porthgwidden a small sandy cove, Harbour by the working port and Porthminster which has almost half a mile of sand.

Hungry Seagull

 

Smeatons Pier Memorial

Turnstones on the Harbour edge

We are making our way albeit slowly towards Porthmeor Beach. There are several Turnstones along the waterfront, very tame and easier work eating crumbs than sifting through rocks and shells on the shore. Porthmeor is a fantastic Atlantic facing beach on the doorstep of Tate St Ives. 

Porthmeor Beach

It is a stunning beach, plenty of Surfers out today. A perfect spot to stop and enjoy the view. I wanted to have a look inside the Tate St Ives, however the entry price was a bit off putting given our limited time. We opt to visit the Cafe and Gift Shop inside instead. If I happened to wander into the gallery that would be unfortunate.... The Tate St Ives was built between 1988 and 1993 on the site of an old gasworks overlooking the beach. he gallery opened in June 1993, the second of the Tate's regional galleries after Tate Liverpool. A very nice but expensive cup of Green tea was enjoyed. I did enquire having a 'top up' but the request was declined. I did purchase a bookmark from thee gift shop though as a souvenir. I did walk into the gallery leaving the Gift Shop but was quickly intercepted by an elderly lady with a ticket machine. I made my excuses about looking for the wife and made a swift exit.. Time to get some more walking in , the buildings on top of 'the island'  look worth exploring.

View from The Island over Porthmeor

St Nicholas Chapel

Standing at the top of St Ives Head, or The Island next to the National Coastwatch Institution (NCI) is quite inspiring. I am reminded of the famous 'St Ives Light'. I have already been reprimanded in one gallery after saying the light was poor today. They are usual in reference to bright, light blue sea and golden sands.However the good people of St Ives and the staff of the Tate have created their own colour chart (pictured left). All the colours are named after things synonymous with Cornwall and the St Ives are. There are names such as, 'Teetotal Street', 'Hurling the Silver Ball' and 'Ale at the Sloop'.(Cornwall's oldest harbour Inn).   St Nicholas Chapel sits on top of The Island in St Ives overlooking the bay, beaches and out to the rolling Atlantic. The tiny Chapel can hold around 10 people. Sadly it wasn't open for viewing, but it does open for short periods. St Nicholas is the patrol saint of sailors,and the Chapel probably dates back to 1434, when the church of St Eia (the parish church) was built in town. St Eia is also known as 'La of Cornwall'. A 5th or 6th Century missionary Princess and indeed Martyr, who is the Patron Saint of St Ives. Hopefully that clears all that up! 

We wind our way back past the Tate St Ives towards the town. My goodness there are some steep streets to negotiate. All of which is very thirsty work. We call into a local micro brewery shop, the owner is a bit snooty about me asking to eat my sandwich. Didn't like the cut of his jib much so only had a half. A couple told us of a much better place to drink 'The Pilchard Press' if we could find it, and it was open. There is a music festival today and we take time to watch a couple of local performs who made a nice sound. It took several attempts to find 'The Pilchard Press'. Hidden away up a side street off the harbour and literally behind a load of bins. Our timing was perfect though as it had just opened at 4 PM.It's a quaint little place serving traditional local Ales straight from the barrel. Obviously a popular place as within minutes it had filled up! On the rear wall is a mural depicting life and characters in the town, and there is a ‘window’ with a webcam showing the harbour outside.Well worth a visit if you are in the area.

 

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A few photos from out and about in Brighton

 

West Pier Brighton

It's a bit grey, and a bit drizzly but we have time to kill before the Marillion concert later this evening. Only my second ever visit to the city after completing 'The London to Brighton' cycle ride in 1994. That didn't end well either...An opportunity to explore a little around Brighton or 'London on Sea' as it is sometimes called. One of the most iconic images (at least for me) are the skeletal remains of the historic West Pier.First opened in 1866 was the first Grade I listed pier in England. It closed to the public in 1975 and went into dramatic decline. Storm damage and arson attacks have left it beyond repair. The ghostly image sits abandoned off shore. A nostalgic reminder of the 1860's Victorian heyday for the construction of piers. 

 

View from Brighton Palace Pier

After all the hot weather this Summer today is grey and drizzly. Having viewed the West Pier it was only right to walk along the functioning 'Palace Pier'. Constructed in 1899, the third pier to be constructed in Brighton after the 'Royal Suspension Chain Pier' and West Pier. Sadly the Theatre is no longer . closing down in 1986. It is now just an amusement park in the ocean.  It is popular though with millions of visitors. As a big fan of the 'Carry On films' I can tell you that 'Carry on at your Convenience' was filmed here in 1971.  It is 1,722 feet (525 m) long and contains 85 miles (137 km) of planking.   

Wall mural tribute 'Fat Boy Slim'

Back on 'dry land' we pass the iconic 'Grand Hotel'. 'The original Palace by the Sea'. It opened in 1864 and has classic Victorian architecture. It is easily the most expensive Hotel in Brighton and was designed for the upper classes. It hit the headlines in 1984 when the IRA tried to assassinate the then Prime  Minister 'Margaret Thatcher. During the Conservative Party Conference a bomb was detonated causing terrible devastation and loss of life. In one of the side streets I spot a wall mural for Brighton's favourite son 'Fatboy Slim'.  Born Quentin Leo Cooke, better known as 'Norman Cooke'. A musician and DJ and original Bass player for the band 'The Housemartins'. These days he is much in demand for Festivals  all over the world , as well as producing. Dance and House music isn't my bag so I can't tell you much more sadly. 

Brighton i360

The Brighton i360 is an imposing sight. A moving observation tower located on the seafront. Standing at a 162-metre (531 ft) moving the tower opened on 4 August 2016. From the fully enclosed viewing pod, visitors experience 360-degree views across Brighton, the South Downs and the English Channel. It was pretty much designed and developed by the same team responsible for the 'London Eye'. Formerly known as the British Airways i360 for sponsorship purposes, the project originally aimed to attract 739,000 paying customers every year. We won't be going up today though with the weather being as it is. instead we take a wander through 'The Lanes', lots of narrow lanes full of small and mostly independent shops. 'The upside down house'  catches the eye. Apparently visitors can walk on the ceiling! It is not suitable for people with Vertigo, mobility impairments or pregnant women. Otherwise go and impress your friends with some unique photos. Talking of unique and strangely weird. ... I have spotted the same individual three times now wearing a road cone as acceptable head-wear. With his ghetto blaster blaring you really can't miss him. Nobody (except me) seems to even notice him. Maybe they are used to him as a regular feature.

Jubilee Clock Tower

It has certainly been an entertaining walk through Brighton. But we now have to get to the Marillion gig at the nearby Dome.