Tuesday, 19 May 2026

The John Bunyan Trail (17) Sundon Hills

 


The Car Park at Sundon Hills Country Park is our starting point today. It is National Trust owned and completely free! So, that's not a bad start to what promises to be a cracking walk. It is a site of Special Scientific Interest, made up of, Sharpenhoe Clappers, Moleskin and Markham Hills, Smithcombe Hills and Sundon Hills. Part of the Chiltern Hills Area of Outstanding National Beauty. Much of the site is unimproved chalk grassland with many plants which are now rare. We set off in perfect weather walking in an anti- clockwise direction. The Sheep are gathered in the shade close to the hedge-line.  

It is a beautiful setting, with stunning views away to our left. We take the sharp right path towards Holt Wood , moving on towards Fernhill Wood. Continuing to follow the Bunyan Trail. We cut across fields filled with wild flowers, Crimson Clover, Fairy flax and  Rockrose are plentiful. The beautiful yellow flowers , although sightly out of place make a stunning sight. We wind our way through Top Farm and link up with the Icknield Way footpath. We covered this part of the walk on our previous visit. We arrive back at the Sharpenhoe Clappers, this time from the reverse side as we walked before. It is clearer today so the views seem even better. The Beech Trees too look incredible in the sunlight. We continue through Smithcombe Hill and Smithcombe Valley. Hopefully you will get something of a flavour from the pictures posted below. 

 

Beech Trees

On the way we encounter a memorial by W A Robertson, (Not to be confused with B A Robertson.....) who gave this area to the National Trust in memory of his brothers who died in the Great War. Money was used to buy Sutton House and eight areas of countryside within reach of London. William stated that at each site a memorial must be erected, specified as to size and form, giving its location and details of his brothers.

There is no doubt that Sharpenhoe Clappers is a fantastic area of ancient woodland. We make the sharp descent down the steps back to the Barton Road. It is only a short stroll before we are in the lush green Moleskin and Markham Hills area of the walk. Once again owned by the National Trust, a wildlife rich chalk grassland area. More Beech woodland and meadows managed as a nature reserve. We are making the loop back towards the Sundon Hills. Once again the views are superb as we look across the countryside. Chalk grassland is internationally rare, and the Chilterns holds an important concentration of this habitat. Over the course of the 20th century, the Chilterns lost 54% of its chalk grassland. Much of what remains is confined to the steep escarpment slopes that have escaped arable cultivation and development pressure.


 
Facing the Moleskins

The now disused chalk quarry established to provide chalk and marl for the Sundon cement works, which operated between 1899 and 1976. A great place for insects, which includes 16 species of Dragonfly. There are also 21 species of Butterfly listed. These include the rare Adonis Blue. The quarry is home to several uncommon beetles, such as Apion astragali. The young (larvae) of this beetle only eat the wild liquorice plant, which is also a rare plant in Britain. We cut across the hills back towards the car park n the walk completed. In total 7.64 miles completed. Just 2 more legs of the Bunyan Trail left to complete.

 

Monday, 4 May 2026

The John Bunyan Trail (16) Clapham & Bedford

The latest leg of the Bunyan trail is starting from the village of Clapham. Probably most famous for the location of RAF Twinwood Park as any fans of Band Leader Glenn Miller would know. It was from here on 15th December 1944 that he took the fateful flight to France and was never seen again. Officially he is still listed as 'Missing in action' to this day.The site now hosts the Glenn Miller/Twinwood museum, with an annual Twinwood Festival. We are walking along some lovely leafy private lanes towards Clapham Park.Not quite sure what to expect today as there will be a lot of urban walking as we venture into Bedford Town Centre. In the Meantime we follow the 'Bunyan path' past the cemetery on our left and cut through Bedford Park. A Grade Two listed English Heritage Victorian park in the north of Bedford. Created in 1888 it is the largest urban park in Bedford 

 
Foster Hill Road Cemetery
A little further on is Bedford School.

Bedford School was founded in 1552, one of the oldest boys' schools in the United Kingdom.The school has produced Cricketer 'Alastair Cook' who went on to captain the England Cricket Team. Bedford Park is a Grade Two listed English Heritage Victorian park in the north of Bedford. Created in 1888 it is the largest urban park in Bedford. There are some beautiful trees within the grounds of Bedford Park, many of which formed part of the original layout of the park from 1888. It looks a very affluent area with the large houses and wide avenues. We arrive in Bedford town centre and the North Bedfordshire Heritage Trail.

Presented by the Duke of Bedford, the statue of John Bunyan by Sir Joseph Edgar Boehm was unveiled on 10th June 1874 before a crowd of 10,000. Boehm was a favourite Sculptor of Queen Victoria. His statue of John Brown is hidden away in the woods at Balmoral. Bunyan is depicted holding a Bible. The scenes around the base are from the 'Pilgrims Progress'. John Bunyan died in 1688 in London. He is buried there in Bunhill Fields, City Road.  

On St Peter's Green, not only do we have the 'Bunyan' statue we also have the old Lamp post in Bedford. Sounds a bit like something Alan Partridge might say I know. The one pictured left was originally gas lit and dates back to the 1860's. This would have been been when street lighting was first introduced to Bedford.  

Bedford bills itself as a town of Markets. water fountain erected in 1883.(The Turnley Drinking Fountain). Set in the outer railings of St Pauls it would have served Bedford residents and their livestock. 

We arrive at the River Great Ouse which flows through the centre of Bedford. Often described as the Jewel in the  Crown. It is only spoiled by some horrible architecture, not least the Council HQ designed in the 1960's.Ugly buildings aside it is a lovely walk in the sunshine by the water. 

With the football World Cup just over a month away there is clearly some optimism for success in Bedford!

The majority of the walk thereafter is very much an urban affair with little to report really. As we make our way back we pass the Ford that gave us so many problems on a previous walk. It looks more sedate today for some reason. A Swan is on her nest looking after eggs. All very different to the last visit. We continue on our way towards Clapham Green. It has been afar more interesting walk than I anticipated. A total of 8 miles covered.

The John Bunyan Trail (17) Sundon Hills

  The Car Park at Sundon Hills Country Park is our starting point today. It is National Trust owned and completely free! So, that's not ...