Wildlife Watching on Mull

Around Ben More

This was the 'big one' as far as I was concerned , the day I had been looking forward to the most.  I had even gone easy on the complimentary whisky the night before so as to be in peak condition. We drove to the ferry terminal at Craignure to meet our guide for the day 'Nigel' from Island Encounters. The tour would mainly be focused around the centre and southern parts of the island.

Around Ben More

Our first major sighting was of 'White Tailled Sea Eagles. White-tailed eagles are magnificent birds of prey, with a wingspan of over 2 metres when adult. They became extinct in Britain in the early 1900s but were reintroduced in the 70s. The first successful breeding of the re-introduced white-tailed eagles occurred on Mull in 1985. Together with the golden eagle, these birds are the reason Mull is often called ‘Eagle Island’. The small population of white-tailed eagle in Britain is found only in the highlands and islands of the west of Scotland. Compared to smaller and shorter-lived birds, white-tailed eagles have a low reproductive rate, which has contributed to the slow growth in the population. 'Egg collectors' have also hampered efforts to re-introduce the species. There are now said to be 21 breeding pairs on Mull.
 

When not feeding they are not exactly the most energetic of birds, quite content to idle their time away in the tree tops. The bird we were watching was soon joined by the male and it was just the start we hoped for. It was one of those days where the sunshine instantly disappeared and driving wind and rain replaced it. As a result we we were forced back into the mini bus to take shelter. It was good to see seals basking on the loch along with many Oystercatchers on the shore. We took lunch opposite Inch Kenneth.
 

Inch Kenneth is just a short distance off the coast from Mull, just off Gribun rocks. The island is 55 hectares in area and is very different from the rest of Mull. Inch Kenneth is one of the most historically important islands in Scotland. Along with Iona, this island has a significant number of important burials of the kings of Scotland. The island (Innis Choinnich) was named after St Kenneth, who founded a monastery on the island.
Shortly afterwards we had our first Golden Eagle sighting! There was a pair , a long way in the distance and very high over a ridge. Just then the heavens opened again  and one went over the ridge. The other took shelter high amongst the craggy  outcrop. With the scope it was 'just' about possible to make out the shape but with the conditions so bad it was almost impossible.  A golden eagle has a wingspan of up to 8ft. Its body is up to 40in long,it weights up to 13lb and it can fly at 100mph. Sadly this was to be as close as e were going to get today.
It is thought that there are 23 pairs of Golden Eagle on Mull.

Time to go

We did have more luck spotting Otters though! Spotting Otters can be tricky, they blend in well with the seaweed covered rocks and often, when out in the water, there little heads can be mistaken for rocks sticking out from the water. Thankfully as we passed Loch Beg we had our first sighting. Once spotted the secret is to get up or down shore in the direction they are swimming. The type of Otters on Mull are The Eurasian otter (Lutra lutra), also known as the European otter. They can easily be well over a metre
long.

Glengorm Castle

The journey from Tobermory to Glengorm takes you through some of the most beautiful scenery in the world. Glengorm lies 4 miles north of Tobermory along another single track road and sits at the northernmost tip of the island looking over the Atlantic. 80 miles further north are the outer Hebrides, which miraculously appear on the horizon when there is a sunset.

  The view looking north across the water is of the peninsula of Ardnamurchan, the most westerly point in the British mainland and the mountainous island of Rhum. Low lying Coll with it's white sands can be seen to the west. Our spacious bedroom provided stunning panoramic views of all this as well as the Highland cattle which seem to roam free all over the estate. It really is the most perfect of settings and I sensed I was going to be most comfortable here.

After a quick bit of unpacking we made our way out into the fresh air for a walk down towards the sea. Once again the weather turned a bit nasty or 'dreich' as they say in these parts. 

Standing Stones near Glengorm

Highland ' Coos'

Glengorm Castle was completed in 1863by James Forsyth of Dunacht, Argyll. Work started in 1859when an Edinburgh architectural firm drew up the plans. Forsyth then evicted all of the estate tenants and burning down all the cottages. The smoke from the thatched roofs turned the sky blue and from this Glengorm got it's name' blue glen'.One of the evicted tenants cursed Forsyth citing that he would never sleep in his new house.This came true as Forsyth was killed in a riding accident before the castle was completed.



Anyway, returning back to the castle after a lovely albeit very damp walk we left our sodden gear in the entrance hall. Everything was very relaxed I must say , even the bedroom doors were all left unlocked 24 hours a day. After a warming shower and a spruce up I decided it was time to pay a visit to the library. This was no ordinary library however as it stocked over 20 different fine malt whiskies, all of which were complimentary to guests ...

 

Continuing with the relaxed spirit of the place I set off without bothering to put on any shoes, that was a mistake. I was soon to discover that a polished wooden staircase and woolen socks are not a good combination. I took quite a tumble down the staircase , Norman Wisdom would have been proud of my descent My mobile phone disappeared over the top rail shattering the screen upon landing in the hall. As for me, well I was in crumpled heap at the bottom of the stairs trying to regain some semblance of dignity. A German visitor enquired semi mockingly if I had started early on the whisky? Which wasn't particularly well received by yours truly I must say. Needless to say I quckly poured myself at least a double double purely for medicinal reasons of course, a Balvennie I think it was ?

 

Welcome to Mull

Leaving the ferry terminal and driving west to Tobermory felt like embarking into a foreign country, Mull is the second largest of the Inner Hebrides. The main town on Mull is famed for it's brightly coloured buildings and pretty  high street facing the harbour.  It has also been used  for a well known children’s TV programme 'Ballimory'  and so is now quite a well-visited place.
As you drive along the main road you do pass some unusual road signs.




 Before we hit Tobermory a much needed tea and cake stop was needed courtesy of the 'Coffee Pot'. I couldn't resist taking some photos of old boats long since abandoned by the loch edge.

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The view across the harbor at Tobermory was impressive and every visit generated more photos of the same view. Sadly the rains had returned again and we took shelter in the distillery....There are worse place to find shelter i'm sure you will agree? The lady behind the counter did clarify that there was no current distilling taking place but the tours would still take place. Maybe save that for another day if we have time.



Mull has more forest than the rest of the West Coast and this has attracted Sea Eagles and Golden Eagles. That is my great hope to see Eagles along with a multitude of other wildlife but that will all be for another day. For now it was time to go to our home for the next three nights and somewhere I was very excited to be staying 'Glengorm Castle'.

Inverness to Mull via Fort William....

So begins the most pivotal day of the whole trip ! Not words that I say lightly as if things don't quite drop into place it could all end up rather badly.

Let me explain further. The traditional route would have been to travel from Inverness down the A82 past Fort William and to catch the ferry further down at Oban. The Oban ferry goes across to Craignure on Mull. However I had found a different route taking in two different ferry crossings that if my calculations were correct would not only work out much cheaper but also quicker.
Just for piece of mind before setting off and to make sure no booking of ferries was required I checked in with our friend at the Tourist Information Office again. This was actually by now my third visit after calling in previously for a replacement map for the one mysteriously lost if you recall.
The look on his face worried me, it wasn't  just 'oh no not him again'. To say he wasn't familiar with my planned route would be something of an understatement. I wasn't  hearing the soothing words of re-assurance that I had hoped for.  He did recall hearing that one of the ferries in question had been out of action for a while due to an accident....He passed on a couple of phone numbers for the ferry operators (which were never answered) and wished us luck. We were going to need it because our only alternative 'The Oban ferry' was fully booked.

I enjoyed the drive to Fort William especially as it once again took us past Loch Ness as well as the splendour of Ben Nevis. Ben Nevis is the highest mountain in the British Isles, located in Scotland, United Kingdom. Standing at 1,345 metres above sea level, it is located at the western end of the Grampian Mountains. Not that we could see much of it as it was shrouded in cloud and mist. Shortly afterwards our first ferry crossing came into view , just as one was pulling away....
The Corran Ferry is one of few remaining mainland vehicle ferries in Scotland. The route crosses Loch Linhe from Nether Lochaber to Ardgour, The wait for the next ferry was only about 20 minutes and the passage took about 15 minutes max. Foot passengers travel for free but £8.20 for a vehicle wasn't bad I thought.  

From the Ardgour side, there are roadway connections to Lochaline, 31 miles (50 km) to the southwest. Although it is probably the longest 31 miles I have ever travelled due to the winding single track roads. It is most certainly ascenic drive to Lochaline across the wild and remote Morvern peninsula. The last 18 miles from Strontian south to Lochaline is along single track roads. The next ferry I felt slightly more comfortable about as it was operated by Caledonian Macbrayne 'Calmac'. This time the crossing cost £11.50 The ferry journey from Lochaline to Fishnish across the Sound of Mull is short but stunning. There is a chance of seeing wildlife, including porpoises, seals and even basking sharks depending on the time of year. Fishnish sits roughly halfway between Tobermory and Craignure. The views over the water to the rugged hills of Morvern are outstanding. So it was with no small amount of relief that we had actually arrived in Mull !


 

Loch Ness - Foyers Falls , FortAugustus, Urquhart Castle and Drumnadrochit.

Before we departed for the infamous Loch Ness we made a quick detour east of Invernesss to 'Culloden'. It was a bright but breezy morning to visit the site of the last battle fought on British soil in April 1746. The Jacobite forces of Charles Edward Stuart were decisively beaten by loyalist troops commanded by the Duke of Cumberland. We didn't hang around for too long as we had 'Nessie' to find ! We too the B852 to Dores taking the more picturesque south side of Loch Ness. We stopped off at 'Foyers Falls' where they say the more rain the merrier and best to visit after a wet day. Well today it should should be full of mirth and joy at least. By taking a trail through the woods you can view upper and lower falls that plunge a spectacular 200 ft. The almighty roar of the rushing water is as inspiring as the view itself.

 
Carrying on our 'hill country drive' we arrived at the bustling canalside of 'Fort Augustus'. We had a nice wander and a decent pint of beer in the 'Lock in'. The Caledonian Canal connecting Fort William to Inverness passes through Fort Augustus in a dramatic series of locks stepping down to Loch Ness. We quickly moved on as very busy with tourists but there were some nice view points of Loch Ness.
 
 As we made the turn on the A82 to travel the north side of Loch Ness we stopped at Urquhart Castle. It stands magnificently on the edge of the Loch and was formerly on of Scotland's largest castles.Founded in the 13th century, Urquhart played a role in the Wars of Scottish Independence in the 14th century. It was subsequently held as a royal castle, and was raided on several occasions by the MacDonald Earls of Ross.

Our next point of call as we continued our circular route was the splendidly named 'Drumnadrochit'. There is a big Loch Ness Monster visitor centre there, in fact everything seemed to be focussed on the 'mythical monster'. In the gift shop you could just about get anything with it's image on from a fridge magnet to a kilt. I failed to be persuaded of any existence of a monster and suspect if merely hype from the local tourist board. My theory is that what somebody might have seen are otters 'surfing' through the water. We decided to veer off piste via the A831 to to Cannich followed by a minor road to Glen Affric. This really is an area of outstanding beauty. We did have a little wander until we had our first encounter with the notorious 'midges' who forced us back to the car. Unfortunately we had left the windows down so they had already made themeselves at home. It’s a classic landscape of perfectly-placed lochs, mountains and a wonderful mix of pine, birch and oak trees. The woodland is one of the best examples of the Caledonian Forest that once covered much of Scotland. The rich environment is an important haven for wildlife, so the whole glen is protected as a National Nature Reserve.

 

Inverness (1)

 

We trudged off the train onto a dreary drizzly Inverness platform. The skies were leaden grey and not offering much hope of any improvement. Undaunted we set off in search of our hire car. I recall the lady at 'Arnold Clark' remarking that I didn't look well. Ominously I was to hear that phrase a few times over the next few days. 'I don't travel very well' was the only response I could muster.Fully acquainted with our new motor we set off to find our digs for the next couple of nights. It was not even mid morning so we were unable to check in but we did at least manage to offload the suitcases. Umbrellas up we ventured into the town centre not quite sure what to expect. I know I would have liked a shower and a change of clothes but that wasn't to be.

Our first port of call was Inverness Castle which has had a colourful history over the years. It is believed that there has been a fortified building on the site since Malcolm 3rd (1057). In 1508 Alexander Gordon, Earl of Huntly and Sheriff of Inverness built a great tower house that was besieged by Mary Queen of Scots army in 1562. The Castle Viewpoint is the newest visitor attraction in Inverness offering 360 degree views of the Highland Capital and the surrounding scenery. Sadly our view was a bit restricted due to the weather but I did brave the elements to capture a few pics. I didn't hang around at the top of the tower in the driving rain. I am assured that on a clear day it is an excellent vantage point to view, The Caledonian Canal, Loch Ness, Kessock Bridge, Chanonry Point Lighthouse and the battlefied at Culloden! Along with many more. Due to the weather we decided to adjourn to the nearby museum where it will be at least dry. The museum had information on the heritage and geology of the Highlands and was OK considering admission was free. At least we had chance to sit down in the dry with a cup of something warm.
 
 Low and behold when we re-emerged back outside it had stopped raining. Still too early to check into the hotel the plan was to get a few picnic items to take on our walk along the west side of the River Ness. Passing the Episcopalian Cathedral, crossing the suspension bridge onto the Ness Islands and view the Redwoods.Take a quick detour to visit the Botanical Gardens before returning back along the east bank taking in a bar en-route. I knew all this because I asked at the helpful Tourist Information Centre who also gave me a lovely map with the route carefully marked out.

 As with all great plans they don't always go accordingly. The picnic was secured via a quick trip to Marks and Spencers but by the time we had got to the River Ness it was raining again. This time only heavier , not only that, somehow I had parted company with my trusty and newly acquired map. This was going to have to be done on instinct , just the way I like it. Th e water was lovely,clear, and fast running. I can see how it would be very relaxing along the tree-lined walkways by the grassy banks on a nice day. We did make it , rather bedraggled to the Botanic Gardens which was like a sauna inside the glass house. Coming back on the east side of the river there were nice views from the bridges. Great place for a relaxing stroll.