Gorran Haven to Bow/Vault Beach & Caerhays Castle (South West Coast Path)

We made the short trip down from Charlestown to have a look around Gorran Haven. Somewhere neither have been to before. 

Sitting in a valley, well off the beaten track, Gorran Haven is an unspoilt coastal village at the heart of which is a cluster of Fisherman's cottages, nestling around a secluded cove which remains much the same as in years gone by I would imagine. 

The bay of Gorran Haven is sheltered from prevailing west winds by Dodman Point. 

A stone pier forms a small harbour and provides further shelter. Built at the time of the pilchard boom in the 19th century the harbour is much quieter these days. There are still a few working boats, but most of the traffic is now fishing trips.

 

 

 There are two sandy beaches either side of the cove. Vault or Bow Beach is to the south, Great Perhaver Beach is to the North.

 The tide is on It's way out and we are able to pass the rocky outcrop that separates the harbour beach. Marina is clearly in full blown holiday mood now. However there is no tempting her to take the coastal path to visit either of the other two sandy beaches. I think she was totally 'walked out' yesterday on the ten miler to Mevagissey from Charlestown.

Leaving her at the coffee shop I set off in search of Vault/Bow Beach.

It was a very good decision. Not only has the sun come out, the views are magnificent! 

It is probably only a mile or so and Vault/Bow Beach is a beautiful sight. A curved sweep of sand and shingle that gently slopes into the sea. Not bad at all for late October!

I'd be happy to stay here for a lot longer but need to get back of course. It would be nice to continue the walk as well but needs must as they say.

I re-trace my outward route, there are a few walkers around too, who seem to sense that I'm in a bit of a hurry. Not too much though not to take in the views, and feel the sense of freedom that comes with such an invigorating experience.

I break into a bit of a trot maybe even a gallop?It is a surprise to see that I have made the all time leader-board on my Strava app for this leg of the coast. I can see my wife down below enjoying her coffee. She sees me to and we exchange a few waves, with a few waves in the background if you will......

We really liked Gorran Haven, definitely somewhere that we will return to in the future. The only disappointment being that the Fish and Chip shop that was highly recommended was closed...

It is still only early afternoon so time to visit another place that looks interesting on the map, 'Caerhays'. It is only a short journey of about 5 miles down some very rural roads.

It is here that Cornwall has It's very own 'Castle by the Sea'.   

Caerhays Castle

Caerhays Castle is an English Heritage Grade 1 Listed Building and currently home to the Williams family. 

Unfortunately today The Gatehouse is as close as we will get as closed until February 2022.

The Castle overlooks Porthluney Cove, It is really a semi-castellated manor house. 

The castle garden covers almost 120 acres and is famed for It's Magnolia collection. In total the garden is home to 600 varieties of plants.Time to explore the beach I think! 

 

 

Porthluney Cove Beach is secluded with a large expanse of golden sand. South facing, in front of Caerhays Castle and Gardens you couldn't ask for a better backdrop.

I somehow resist the urge to go clifftop walking again. Happy to just relax on the rocks in the sunshine. 

As we leave I can't resist taking a final picture from the car of the castle . Somewhere we will have to visit again when it is open.

Charlestown to Mevagissey Walk (South West Coast Path)

 

Coastal path closed....

We were starting from the harbour at Charlestown. As I suspected the SW Coastal Path was blocked off. If I had been alone I might well have attempted to go around, over or even under. Probably good then that I had my wife with me! A shame really as I would have liked to have seen the 'Crinnis Cliff Battery'. It was built in 1793 to house four cannons to  defending the entrance of the new harbour.

Under greyish skies but thankfully dry we made a detour out of Charlestown taking first left towards Porthpean. We pass Duporth , which again is closed off. The beach at Duporth is privately owned and I don't think they are welcoming to visitors? 

The walk today is going to be a challenge. I have seen words such as demanding, strenuous and roller-coaster used to describe it........ 10 miles of hard but picturesque walking lies ahead. 

 

It's a nice little beach at Porthpean and we get on to the coastal path for the first time.  

I'm wearing new boots for the first time today. It doesn't take me long to christen them. What I thought were leaves on the sole turned out to be something far more unpleasant...

Thankfully we cross a stream that helps to remove most of the offending mess.

The views are already spectacular looking up the coast towards 'Par' and even further 'Gribbin Head'.

The next part is where it starts to get really interesting. A huge descent is followed immediately by an even bigger climb. There are steps to help but nevertheless it is still challenging. The scenery gets even more spectacular and I can see where the 'roller-coaster analogy comes from. Just as we head towards sea level and It's back up through the valley. All totally exhilarating , although I'm not sure my wife would agree.  

We emerge unscathed, if a little a shaken ,well one of us anyway. We are now at Phoebe's Point. 

Another long footbridge takes us to Gwendra Point, Ropehaven and then the hamlet of Trenarren.  An Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) It was also the home of the Poet and Author A.L Rowse (1903-1997) in his retirement.

An English historian and writer who became one of the 20th century’s foremost authorities on Elizabethan England. 

The son of a labourer, Rowse was a brilliant student and won a scholarship to Christ Church College,Oxford in 1922. Where he lived and worked for the next 49 years as a teacher and historian.

There is a monument dedicated to him as we approach Black Head where the path forks.

To get to the tip of 'Black Head' means deviating from the path. It is well worth it though as the views in both directions are stunning.

Black Head is the site of an Iron Age Fort and is now owned by the National Trust. There are also the remains of a rifle range, built in the 1880s and modified in later years. 

I saw a Peregrine Falcon darting around the cliff tops too.  

There is a brief respite from the 'ups and downs' as we continue on the coastal path. We can see the path in the distance following the headland in the direction of Pentewan Beach.

We descend towards Hallane Mill Beach, a small, sheltered, south facing cove, only accessible by foot. The beach is overlooked by high cliffs known as 'The Vans' and a natural waterfall cascades onto the beach.

We pass through a wooded area and almost miss the wooden footbridge that leads steeply up to The Vans. We backtrack slightly and are back on course. 

The cows that were black and white specks in the distance from 'Black Head' are now up close and personal. There is another sharp climb before the sandy beach at Pentewan comes into view.

Pentewan provides a good place to stop off and have a break. A pasty and Diet Coke go down very well at 'The Piskey Cafe' . Marina decides that enough is enough and she will catch the bus into Mevagissey. I'm tempted as my new boots are giving me a few problems but decide to carry on. We say our farewells until we meet again. I walk through the very large Caravan site to the beach. The coast path is not obvious. I manage to reconnect off the beach instead of following the B3273.

Pentewan Beach

Yet another huge climb up the hillside , it takes a lot of effort but the views back to Pentewan make it all the more worthwhile.This is Penare Point on the map.  I took a photo off this from the road the next day just to illustrate how steep it was.

Mevagissey is getting ever closer and hopefully things will level out. Passing the Trevalsa Court Hotel I am almost there. 

There is a grassy area in front of some houses. From there it is a case of winding down into the harbour area and I have made it with a lot of relief! The distinctive twin harbour provides a safe haven for the many fishing boats that land their daily catch

Mevagissey is another old Cornish fishing village which is extremely popular with the tourists. Named after two Irish saints, St Meva and St Issey, the village dates back to at least 1313 and during the 1800s Mevagissey prospered on the back of the abundant source of pilchards out to sea.

 

The harbour is built on the site of a medieval quay. The first Act of Parliament allowing the new port to be built was passed in 1774. The inner harbour, consisting of the current East and West Quays, was constructed from this time. An outer harbour was added in 1888, but seriously damaged in a blizzard in 1891.

Mevagissey lighthouse was built in 1896 to mark the south breakwater that protects the small harbour.

 In 1880 there were around sixty fishing-boats engaged in the fishing industry. There are currently 63 registered fishing vessels in the harbour worked by 69 fishermen.

 

 It has been a fantastic walk, very testing at times but always enjoyable. Unsurprisingly after catching up with Marina we caught the Bus back to Charlestown. Not before enjoying a welcome pint of 'Proper Job'. As expected the total miles came in at a touch over 10 miles.

Charlestown & Walk to Carlyon Bay (South West Coast Path)

The Port of Charlestown

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Great to be back in Cornwall again, this time on the south coast and very close to St Austell. We are in last open 18th Century Georgian harbour in the UK and UNESCO world heritage site of Charlestown. It is as though we are being transported back in time!

Home for the next few days is a former Fisherman's converted 'Net Loft'. It would have been used for storing sails and fishing nets. It is   small and compact, but with everything you need for a comfortable stay. 

Charlestown is idyllic, with a beautiful harbour, magnificent sailing ships, a museum, ample restaurants, gift shops and a beach. 

The last time I was here it was raining and blowing a gale, fingers crossed for this visit. 

The Port of Charlestown is largely unspoiled.  It was constructed between 1791 and 1801 by Charles Rashleigh.  There is a a memorial on the harbour wall next to the 'life ring' to him. Also the local pub/restaurant is named after him. 

Originally built to export copper and import coal, it was soon being used for the export of China Clay. The harbour is still used today by local Fishermen.
 

Thankfully the area seems to have been largely ignored by developers. Tourism is key as well as the the movie and television industry.  

The boat pictured below is is a Greek trireme, a type of galley. Apparently it was built for the film 'Clash of the Titans'. It has been as far as the Canary Islands for filming. It appears to be 'resting' between roles at the moment.

Many other films that have used Charlestown as a location including; Tim Burton's 'Alice in Wonderland', 'The Eagle has Landed', Mel Gibson's 'Apocalypto' and 'The Three Musketeers'.

The small screen has been here too with Doctor Who and more recently the hit series 'Poldark'.     

Time for a bit of exercise and to seek out the South West Coast Path. We pick it up close to the harbour and head out for a short walk towards Carlyon Bay.

 It's an uphill start but a pleasant one,with views to the right a far as the 'Black Head' peninsular

 

 

We soon arrive at the Coastwatch Station at Landrion Point. It is open every day of the year looking out over the Bay of St Austell. It is a two story building with a flagstaff. An NCI Flag and a Union Flag are flown when the station is open. 

St Austell Bay Map

 

Having walked from 'Par' to 'Carlyon Bay' a few years ago my memories are not great.... I remember it as something of a building site. It doesn't look as though much has changed sadly.
Once the home of the "Cornwall Coliseum", a huge entertainment venue that sat out of place on the beach. 

The Coliseum closed its doors for the last time in 2003, after which time it became something of a decaying eyesore.

There are numerous Security Guards around , and various fenced off areas. There is also a huge pile of rocks that I presume will be used for sea defence? In short what should be a real 'Beauty Spot' has been defaced. 

We venture down to the beach a stretch of almost 2 miles of coarse sand. Actually it isn't really sand but "stent", a mixture of waste from the tin and china clay industries

A couple of hardy souls have stripped off and made it into the sea. There does seem to be a growing trend for this kind of thing I've noticed. Good for the circulation apparently and boosts the immune system. I'm taking no chances keeping all four layers firmly intact.Although I did relent and undo my outer jacket.

Time is ticking on and we make the same journey back to Charlestown. It is only a short walk but I have at least joined up another part of the South West Coast path. 

Back in Charlestown we find somewhere to eat. Unfortunately they only have the dreaded 'Doom Bar' on tap... I give it a miss as it doesn't agree with me. I will wait for a nice pint of 'Tribute' or 'Proper Job'  later.