Newquay Beaches Walk

 

Newquay Map

A wet morning was spent in Padstow, another number 56 Bus trip. The 'Weather Witches' had promised that it would brighten up in the afternoon. Sure enough by the time we got back to Porth the sun was threatening to come out. A quick change and we were on our way walking on the headland towards Newquay. Some nice views too looking back towards the beach at Porth. If you include Porth and Watergate there are eleven beaches to be discovered. Over seven miles of golden sands.In the town itself there are four main beaches. (Tolcarne, Towan,Great Western & The Harbour).

The first beach that we come to is 'Lusty Glaze'. This has actually been in private ownership since 1999.It is fully open to the public though with no charge.It is just a matter of climbing down the 368 steps. Alternatively it can be accessed from the adjoining beach 'Tolcarne' at low tide. By comparison the next beach 'Tolcarne' has just the 200 steps to negotiate. There are some great views of Newquay and the harbour from the beach. We find a slope, avoiding any possible steps to get down to Great Western Beach. There are lost of coves and caves that conjure up images of smuggling in days gone by. It is a very sheltered spot with plenty of rock pools to explore.

Newquay Harbour from Tolcarne

We continue along the sands through to Towan Beach. Towan is the closest beach to the town centre of Newquay. It is famous for the 'house on the island. It is connected to the cliffs by a Suspension Bridge.  I've always thought it was be an amazing place to live. It is probably the most popular beach too given the location and sheltered spot. An excellent beach for learning to surf I would imagine. 

The harbour beach is the smallest in Newquay, becoming completely covered by the sea at high tide.It is the largest fishing port on the North Cornwall coast for the landing of shellfish. The RNLI also have a station located in the harbour. There are posters advertising fishing trips. I did one a few years agog from Padstow and really enjoyed it. All bait and tackle is provided and you get to keep what you catch! I was hoping to walk all around the harbour and get to the top of the headland. Unfortunately this wasn't possible so had to go the long way round.

Fistral Beach

Passing the Newquay Golf course I get my first glimpse of the largest and most famous beach 'Fistral'. A 750 metres stretch of rich golden sands. A mecca for surf lovers from across the world . Home to the annual Boardmasters surf competition and festival and sees some of the biggest names in professional surfing.At this stage it would be lovely to reflect on my days of riding the waves here. Sadly I struggled to stand up on a skateboard, never mind a surfboard. The surfing is a legacy of the 1960's when Australian and South African lifeguards arrived to patrol the beaches. Many brought their surfboards with them. 

Continuing around the Towan headland towards the harbour I pass Little Fistral Beach. A very small beach in comparison to It's neighbour and only accessible at low tide. The iconic 5 star Atlantic Hotel stands proud overlooking Fistral Beach. Completed by 1898 The Headland received its first guests in June 1900, It has a rich history of some great highs and a massive decline from 1950 - 1970. In 1979, John and Carolyn Armstrong bought the hotel. They are still the current owners. Four decades and £30 million of improvements and repairs have brought the hotel back from the brink!

Old Coastguard Lookout

The furthest point of the walk, and as far as I can get is the old coastguard lookout point. Built during the Napoleonic Wars, and one of many around Cornwall's coast. Originally built as a lookout post in case of invasion, later used by the coastguard to spot smugglers. Cornwall had a long history of smuggling with it's long coastline and numerous small inlets and coves. 

Time to go and find Mrs A who I had left back at the harbour. It was her choice to sit and read her book before anyone complains. We will walk back to Porth through the town centre. There may or maybe not a stop off at the local Wetherspoons Public house. This may be followed by a bag of chips as we saunter home. 7.75 walked in total  (16,058 steps).

Porth to Watergate Bay Walk (SW Coast Path)

 

The 'Nearly there Trees'

We have arrived in Cornwall at last! It has been an awful journey with torrential rain most of the way. By the time we arrive at our usual Breakfast stop in 'Cheriton Bishop' the rain has eased thankfully. Not too far to go now, the clump of trees off of the A30 is soon followed by the 'Welcome to Cornwall' sign. 

Our base for the week is the seaside hamlet of Porth.Located on the East side of Newquay and sheltered by two vast headlands.After the long drive down we are keen to stretch our legs. We drop our bags off and walk the very short trip down the lane to the beach. We make our way to the cliff top and pick up the SW coast path towards Watergate Bay. There are great views along the coastline looking towards Newquay in the distance. It is just possible to make out the distinctive outline of the Atlantic Hotel on the headland.   

It is a real joy to take in the spectacular views across the Atlantic ocean. The huge wide expanse of Watergate Bay comes into view. The 2-mile (3.2 km) sandy beach is a haven for water sports and kite flying. The sunsets over the bay are some of the most spectacular in Cornwall. The loose plan was to walk along the cliffs and back along the beach. The most important part of the plan is to be ware of the tide times. It is extremely easy to get cut off by the fast incoming tide. 

No sooner than we had walked down to the beach the weather took a turn for the worse.....A sea 'mizzle' started to come in and it got cold quickly. Walking back wasn't going to be much fun. The next bust back to Porth was due in around 45 minutes. Enough time to nip into one of the beach bars for a drop of refreshment. Right on time the number 56 Bus arrived to take us back.

A lovely little walk at just over 3 miles.     

Constantine, Boobys Bay, Trevose Head & Treyarnon Bay Walk

Constantine Bay

A good nights sleep and a most tasty breakfast, has set us up perfectly for a day of coastal walking. We caught the faithful number 56 bus once again, this time heading towards Padstow. It's a lovely journey with great views from our perch on the upper deck. I'm very familiar with this north coast of Cornwall but never tire of the scenery.  We are only going as far as 'Constantine' today. Leaving the bus we gather a few supplies from the store as we start our walk.  

We walk down the winding lane close to the Trevose Golf & Country Club. I can always remember the excitement of getting close to the beach as a child. I've been coming down to this are for well over 50 years on and off. Some very happy times, lots of memories to stir the emotions. Simpler times for sure , but always a place to override any worries or stress that might be lurking. Constantine is a beautiful beach with gently shelving soft pale sands as well as an abundance of rock pools to explore. Saint Constantine was a 6th-century Cornish saint from whom the beach takes its name. Separated from its neighbour, Booby's Bay, to the north, by a thin rocky point, whilst Constantine Bay is bordered by a large rocky reef to the south and backed by a network of sand dunes. We continue along the beach through to Boobys Bay. Named after the Seabird rather than anything more erotic.   

Trevose Head Lighthouse

We walk as far as Trevose Head where the Lighthouse standing at 27 m (89 ft) stands proud. Built in 1847 it was automated in 1995. Memories of the haunting fog horn come flooding back.The flashing beam of light that carried for some 20 miles. The nights listening from the safety of the caravan at Treyarnon Bay, conjuring up all sorts of images and scenarios on the high seas. 

Dinas Head

 This is as far as we are going today, heading North at least. There have been some great bird sightings too.A real pleasure to see a family of three Chough's on the Rocks. Similar to a Crow it has a Red beak and legs. They were virtually wiped out in Cornwall at one stage. A conservation project has seen the number of birds rise to around 200. Unfortunately I didn't get an elusive photo. A Gannet also flew across the sea, distinctive with the large black tipped wings and yellowish head. Down amongst the rock pools a 'Whimbrel' was strutting around looking for food. Out of nowhere a Kestrel hits the ground next to me, spreading wings to cover their prey. Almost immediately it takes off again, a mouse type creature in its clutches. We make our way back across the Bay's and to the headland. We are walking towards Treyarnon Bay, something of a spiritual home for me. 

Looking back on Constantine

Bench dedicated to Jeffery Old

There are some lovely memorial benches looking out to sea. Dedicated to those who also loved this stretch of coast. A lovely way to mark their passing and remember the person. One name is very familiar, for a moment I am transported back to childhood. I remember Jeffery Old, a lovely chap. (1940 -2013). He lived in the farmhouse along the lane, by the small caravan site we always stayed on. He often wandered into the site, not surprising really as I think he owned it. What I remember most though is his Bull.It would be housed in a barn close to the road and scared me to death... Perhaps the most famous bench is the 'Old Rusty Bench'. It has been there for decades, standing up to all the sea and weather can throw at it.I start to think about all the people who would have sat there over the years. This is a bench of happy memories and stories I hope it never gets replaced. 

 

The Rusty Old Bench

Slightly further on, the natural swimming pool has revealed itself now the tide has retreated. It gets totally refreshed with every high tide. Doesn't look so big from up here or as deep. I remember like it was yesterday swimming across it to win a 50p bet. A lot of money back then, enough to buy copes of 'Shoot' and 'Scoop' magazines. Probably enough change for some chocolates or sweets too back then. I'm not sure that I could meet the sane challenge today? I was always fascinated by the grand houses up on the hill looking down across the beach. I always dreamed of living somewhere like that. I don't mind which one , anyone would do. I was told that the big one was owned by someone from Northampton.Sadly not someone I knew.

Would you believe it the sun is trying t break through.Perfect timing for a beer at the Treyarnon Bay Hotel Bar. Had some great times in there over the years. Except the Hotel is no longer there, raised to the ground several years ago for luxury flats. Instead we wander into the Youth Hostel which seems to be doing a good trade. For some reason I order a Cider? Not something I usually drink, maybe the nostalgia has overwhelmed me? I manage to put my elbow in something sticky on the picnic table. This brings me back to reality as I frantically try to repair my brand new sweatshirt. Reassuringly the old car park shop is still there! I understand the previous owners only moved out recently after over 30 years of service. It was a real treat to spend my pocket money in there on flags, transfers and best of all model airplanes. It seems much smaller than I remember , a bit like the swimming pool in the rocks. Perhaps everything was bigger back then?

Treyarnon Bay

 

We sit on the beach for a while, my soaked elbow drying nicely in the weak sunshine. It is very pleasant, a Rock Pipit is busy up and down the rocks, disappearing at will into the smallest of cracks. Once the sun goes in and the wind gets up it is time to move on. Not before a quick look at the old Caravan site though. The path from the beach is much more overgrown. Over on the right the imposing sand dunes of my childhood are all but gone.   The gap in the hedge is still there though. As is the very useful water tap. Although it now lays redundant. How do people wash the sand from there toes these days? The caravans are far more modern these days. The spot we always had is still exactly the same but the Caravan we would rent from Mrs Teagle is long gone.

Saying goodbye to Treyarnon we make or way back towards Constantine. We cut up through the Treyarnon Bay Car Park. Moving through the much larger Caravan Park. I walk that I have done countless times. It seemed strange to see the same Telephone Box by the wall, shaded by Tamarisk. This was our contact with home of course, got to go I can hear the pips! I suddenly had a thought, what If we can't get out the other end? A swing gate was previously in place. Sure enough things have changed. It has gone electronic with a big gate for cars to come through. There is a gate for pedestrians but a PIN code is needed. Thankfully a lady was coming back from the stores and let us through. It has been a fantastic walk, the feeling of belonging almost overwhelming at times. In total 7.72 miles walked. Just a case now of waiting for that number 56 Bus.