The Shakespeare's Avon Way - Evesham (18)

Back in Offenham for what promises to be an interesting Riverside Walk. However things did not get off to a good start.....After a lengthy car journey, lets just say there was an urgent need to 'pay a visit' as they say in polite circles. A leafy narrow lane which was also a Public Right of Way looked promising. All was going according to plan until a car appeared out of nowhere. A angry lady pulled up, wound down the car window and proceeded to berate me for my actions. 'This is someones garden' she shrieked. Well no it wasn't , it was a verge that backed on to a paddock with horses. 'You need to find a better place' she continued without letting up. It's a bit late for that I'm afraid I replied, hastily adjusting myself. All very much to the amusement of my walking companion, who she had driven straight past! I wonder what she thought the horses did when they felt the need to go?

Feeling suitably rebuked the walk continues towards Evesham. Over the Railway Bridge and through a housing area. One front garden is holding It's own Climate change protest. We cross the lovely 'Workman' Bridge into Evesham. Named after the mayor under whose auspices it was built in 1866.  

Evesham is situated on a horseshoe-shaped peninsula almost completely surrounded by water in a meander of the River Avon. The Town Centre is prone to flooding as you might expect. The 2007 floods were the worst recorded.

Its lovely walking riverside through the park. Lots going on on and off the water. We are on the ‘Round Evesham Walk too. A circular walk of about 5 miles and is way-marked with the distinctive ‘Round Evesham Walk’ discs. Very soon we will have to cross the River Avon Thankfully there is a Cable Ferry that will take us across without getting wet. (The Hampton Ferry). The ferry is manually operated by pulling on a cable that is suspended across the river.When the ferry is docked at either bank the cable is allowed to sink to the river bottom, so as not to interfere with navigation. However when in operation though things can work out slightly differently.

Our larger than life 'Ferryman' tells us that the the Ferry has been in operation for over a thousand years. Originally created for the Monks to get to their Vineyards on the steep slopes of Clark's Hill opposite. These days a payment of a pound coin is required to secure passage on the very short trip. 

Unfortunately it seems that he is a rather grumpy Ferryman too. Certainly no lover of the craft using the River. A two man canoe receives a high volume blast of 'stop your gas-bagging and get a move on' . Blooming Boat Club think they own the damn River. We've been her longer than them. Another canoe just manages to duck under the rope across the water. Do you ever catch anyone we inquire? His eyes light up as he replies 'Oh yes, several every day'. What happens then we ask? 'I just smile' he said in a deadpan manner....Chilling.

Things are more sedate on the other side of The River Avon. We move away from the River towards a place called 'Bengeworth'. There are fields upon fields over Orchards. This followed by acres of Glass houses and Nurseries as we move towards Aldington. We are now 3 miles East of Evesham. All part of what is famously known as 'The Vale of Evesham'. 

There is still the small matter of crossing a busy weir as we make our way back to Offenham. OK, well it probably sounded scarier than it actually was. We make our way back through even more nurseries to our starting point.In truth the second part of the walk has been a little mundane compared to the first half. Maybe I'm just a bit cranky because It's hot and my knee is hurting, and the boots are pinching my toes? Relief comes in the shape of a sign saying Riverside Pub half a mile.My maths tells me this is going to a round trip of a mile. We agree to take the car parked close by. A pint of Buttcombe Pale Ale is quickly followed by their Best Bitter. A beautiful setting as we sit in an elevated position overlooking the River Avon.

The walk today has been a total of 9.68 miles.

The Market Harborough Round (6) Hallaton & Tugby

Starting point for this leg of the Market Harborough Round is the Church of St Michael in the village of Hallaton in Leicestershire. The village's name means 'farm/settlement on a nook of land'.  
The village is famous for the tradition of 'Bottle Kicking' as well as the 'Hare Pie Scramble' that accompanies it. More of this later I can promise you. 

As we pass the Church I notice a small museum of local history. I'm sure the 'Hallaton Treasure' gets more than a passing mention. In 2000 close to Hallaton the largest hoard of British Ion Age coins was found. The local metal detectorists were responsible for what turned out to be one of the most important Iron Age finds. Over 5,000 silver and gold coins dating to around the time of the Roman Conquest of Britain were discovered. Finds from the treasure can be found at the Harborough Museum. 

Walking in a clockwise direction we are soon out into some beautiful rolling countryside. The area is well known for being a 'hunting' location. The less said about that the better I think. To our right is Castle Hill. A very fine example of a motte and Bailey dating back to the Norman period of late 11th century or early 12th. Definitely one of the best examples of its kind in Leicestershire.   

The skies have been busy with aircraft activity of varying types. Probably a members gathering, as their didn't seem to be an Air Shows listed I believe the aircraft pictured above are 'Chipmunks'. Or if you prefer The de Havilland Canada DHC-1 Chipmunk. A single-engined primary trainer aircraft designed and developed by Canadian aircraft manufacturer de Havilland. We arrived in the village of Tugby, 12 miles south of Leicester. It was a warm day so we popped into the village pub 'The Fox and Hounds' for a thirst quenching pint. The brew in question was from the local 'Parish Brewery' 'Burrough Hill'. Founded in 1983 is the second-oldest microbrewery in Britain. The brewery is located at the 'Stag and Hounds' pub in Melton Mowbray. Famed for the ‘Baz’s Bonce Blower’ brewed to an ABV of 12-13%. Back in 1984 this was brewed to a whopping 23% and held the Guinness book of records for strongest beer! 

The Fox Inn Hallaton

Back into Hallaton and we find the large Duck pond close to the Fox Inn. The 'Bottle Kicking mentioned earlier takes place each Easter Monday. Two teams attempt to retrieve the bottle which is actually a barrel to their respective village. The tradition dates back to before the 18th century. Local lore claims that the custom began when two ladies of Hallaton were saved from a raging bull by a startled Hare. Thus distracting the Bull and saving the ladies. From this and as thanks to God the vicar would provide a Hare Pi loves and Ale for the poor. The Hallaton villagers would fight each other for the food and drink, and on one occasion, the residents of the neighboring village of  Medbourne stole the beer! The Hallatonians didn't take this lying down and recovered the spoils. A tradition and fierce rivalry was born. 

The day starts with a parade through the villages of Medbourne and Hallaton. Locals carry a large hare pie and the three "bottles", which are actually small kegs or barrels. The pie is blessed by the Hallaton Vicar before being cut apart and thrown to the crowd for the "scramble". The game itself is pretty much a fee for all, with no rules. Except that there is no eye-gouging, no strangling, and no use of weapons..The contest is a rough one, with teams fighting to move the bottles over such obstacles as ditches, hedges, and barbed wire! The emergency services are certainly kept busy. Afterwards much drinking and banter takes place in the local hostelries.There is a rumour that  this was the pre-cursor to modern day Rugby Union.

Decorations are being put up on the village Green in anticipation of the Coronation of King Charles next week. No don't things won't be as lively as the 'Bottle Kicking.

It has been another great walk despite the lack of obvious points of interest. The scenery has been fantastic . A total of  10.78 miles walked.

Farthingstone, Mantles Heath & Everdon Stubbs Bluebell Walk

I always enjoy a trip over to Everdon Stubbs for the Bluebell spectacle. A bit of a different walk this time with a good friend of mine who lives in nearby Cold Higham. Starting point was the village of Farthingstone. I have walked from here before. 

We pick up the footpath that leads through Farthingstone Golf Club. Brings back memories as I played regularly here some twenty years ago. Nobody seems to be playing today though. Such a shame as its a beautiful course. We are heading towards 'Mantles Heath'. A tranquil beauty spot that isn't quite so well known as 'Everdon Stubbs'. The views towards Everdon are superb. Coppicing lets sunlight into the wood, encouraging bluebells and other woodland flowers to flourish. Much of the meadow is acidic grassland where herbs such as cat's-ear, tormentil, sheep's sorrel and heath bedstraw grow.   

 

We get our first sighting of the plentiful Bluebells. They actually spend the majority of their time underground as bulbs, emerging, often in droves, to flower from April onwards. Bluebells are native to western Europe with the UK being a species stronghold. They're associated with ancient woodland and are often used in combination with other species as a clue that a wood is ancient. They reach their greatest densities in the UK’s woods where many thousands of bulbs can exist in one woodland, creating the incredible blue carpets associated with spring. Bluebell woods are believed to be intricately woven with fairy enchantments. Be warned though f you are to pick a bluebell, many believe you will be led astray by fairies, wandering lost forevermore. They are also known as 'fairy flowers', 'witches' thimbles' and 'cuckoo's boots'.

Our walk continues past Snorscomb Mill as we head towards Everdon. 

Once a medieval village, Snorscomb, meaning a ‘many toothed valley', is mentioned in the Doomsday book. The land was enclosed by the Knightley family of Fawsley in 1508 and the village reduced to just the mill, a cottage and a farmhouse, which is how it is today. The 19th century mill is a fantastic looking building with amazing countryside views. We continue into Everdon through the Allotments and past the Cricket pitch. It's a steep walk up through Everdon Stubbs initially. The 'Stubbs' is much better known than 'Mantles Heath' and therefore attracts many more people. 

There are largely two types of Bluebell. The native ones to the UK and the Spanish variety. Cross pollination and hybridisation  can occur which making pure forms quite rare. Native bluebells give off a beautiful sweet aroma. Spanish bluebells have no smell. Native bluebells have droopy heads. Spanish bluebell heads are much more upright. Native bluebells are narrow in shape with rolled back tips. Spanish bluebells are more conical with open tips. You can dig up the Spanish Bluebells though as they are not protected by law. 

Native Bluebells

 

It has been a beautiful walk for sure. The blue in the woods and the yellow in the fields are vibrant. We make our way back towards the village of Farthingstone our starting point.

Apparently the Golf Course at Farthingstone is now closed. A hotel and camping pods are planned. Hopefully the developers will be kind and considerate to the landscape? In total a distance of 7.95 miles was walked.  

The Market Harborough Round (5) Kibworth Beauchamp and Great Glen

Back to complete the missing leg (so far). We are in Kibworth, not sure if it is the Harcourt or Beauchamp variety though? They do seem to merge into one with boundaries unclear. What is certain is that we are going in an anti-clockwise direction towards Burton Overy.  Straight away we are into the open rolling countryside that Leicestershire is so well known for. The young lambs are looking strong in the fields, and well protected by their mothers. The instructions on the gatepost make expectations of those walking very clear! It is very wet underfoot following some recent downpours. Thankfully although somewhat dull, the forecast is reasonable for today. 

We have been to Burton Overy on a previous walk of course. This time we will be continuing on to Great Glen. We will then pick up the Grand Union Canal Leicester Section - Leicestershire and Northamptonshire Union Canal.

 

The footbridge that takes us towards Great Glen is a tricky old affair. One of the steepest I've seen in a while. Add in the slippery mud and a fast flowing stream below and you have a tricky proposition. Nothing for it but to venture on and follow 'Archie' the dog who made short work of it . 

We pass by a luxury development of six houses are located. Very close to the River Sence where a Mill once stood. I notice the development is called 'The Old Mill'. There is part of the old Mill Wheel at the gated entrance which I guess is a nice touch. I always think of Scotland when I hear Great Glen. It's name actually comes from the original Iron Age settlers who used the Celtic word 'glennos' meaning valley. Lying in the heart of the River Sence. The 'Great' part is purely to differentiate from 'Glen Parva' which is somewhere else in the shire of Leicester. Good. I thinks that's cleared that up then . We move on. 

'The Old Mill'

With hindsight I wish that I had taken the ariel route over the Railway Bridge.The standing water turned out to be much deeper than expected. Indeed so much so that it went over the top of my boots. Making for a somewhat uncomfortable rest of the walk.

It's isn't long until we drop on to the Canal towpath, always a good thing. We are heading towards the 'Saddington tunnel'. The Canal tunnel was constructed in 1797 and is 808 metres long (about half a mile). Unfortunately there is no internal towpath so we will go over the top just as horses would have done many years ago.The tunnel is not quite straight, because miscalculations during its construction required some 'adjustment'. Whatever that means? Sounds like somebody got it a little wrong perhaps? Leaning across and into the tunnel I can just make out the light at the other end. No sign of any of the Bats that inhabit it though. 

 

 

The Tunnel completed we wind our way back towards Kibworth. Not too much to report on this homeward stretch apart from more confusion as to which Kibworth it is again? I'm going with Beauchamp and sticking with it. Not that many points of interest on this particular leg but as I always say It's good to get out and about. 

In total a fraction of eleven miles walked and I stayed dry!  Well apart from two wet feet .....

Dom Martin- Temperance Cafe Leamington Spa

Great to be back in Royal Leamington Spa again for a gig. All the previous visits have been to 'The Assembly' which is a smashing venue. Tonight promises to be a bit different in many ways. We manage to get parked up equidistant between the venue and the local Wetherspoons. A beautiful walk over the river, through parks and gardens takes us to the aforementioned watering hole. A fine pint of 'Ruddles Best' was enjoyed for an unbelievable rice of just £1.71. A strange price but hey I'm not one to complain!    

We kind of stumbled upon the venue in Bath Street. 'Temperance' from the outside is essentially a Cafe/Coffee Shop. However that doesn't do it justice at all. It is also a music and art venue. Tonight Dom Martin is in town as part of his Spring Solo Tour.

What a cracking venue it is though. Down a small flight of stairs and you are into a cellar bar with a theatrical theme. 'Intimate' is probably a word that has been overused to describe the setting. I can't think of anything more fitting, so lets go with that. It also feels an extremely relaxed and friendly atmosphere.

I have to nip out quickly... Dom is sitting upstairs and I tell him how much I've been looking forward to this. (The gig, not the visit to the toilet). 'Well don't get your hope hopes up to high' he quips. He kindly agrees to my request for a 'selfie'. Now I'm not the best when it comes to this sort of thing. It gets even worse when my ageing phone decides to freeze. Thankfully he sees the funny side of things as I threaten a phone reboot....  We get there in the end though.

Safely back in my seat and without any further embarrassment  we look about ready to go. A hush descends upon the gathered audience as Dom makes a low key entrance.  

We start with a Rory Gallagher classic 'I Could've had Religion' which is followed by 'Railway and Gun' from the Taste years. He tells us about the repair jobs he used to have to do, patching up old Rory Gallagher tapes.Worn out through countless playing. It is not the sort of audience that needs any explanation of what and audio cassette/ tape was!    
The multi award winning singer/songwriter looks totally at ease in a setting he clearly loves. He is very much a natural 'Storyteller' too, inviting us to take what we will from his recollections. What a life it has been as well, living close the edge doesn't come close to the struggles he has endured. 

Clearly a man who has done things the hard way, battling dependencies, sleeping rough and even being kidnapped. What we see though is someone who is humble, full of gratitude and self reflection. It would be totally wrong to think this is a Rory Gallagher tribute show. The influences are obvious but this is so much more. 

It is totally captivating, the audience is hushed, under a hypnotic spell perhaps? Many will have seen Dom play here before and are relishing their second visit. Many of the songs are preceded by an a short explanation. None more so than his take on the  'Deer Hunter' classic 'Cavatina'. School was just a place to turn up for a free dinner. An incentive was devised by the Teachers, 'Music lessons'. It was during this first lesson that he educated the Music Teacher on how to play 'Cavatina' his way. Combining with 'Out on the Western Plain' tonight.  Some really interesting thoughts too on engaging children by giving them an instrument to learn through school. Now that makes a lot of sense to me. 

There is a short interlude or comfort break as they say in polite circles. It has been a great mixture of covers and some of his own songs. The sound is superb, I do have a slight chuckle as occasionally you hear the floorboards creak, as someone walks overhead.

 The songs and the tales continue after the break.  Far too many to document them all. The one about hiding in a friends attic for a few months while homeless does stand out though. As you might expect with Dom though, it all turned out alright in the end. He talks sentimentally about his Dad, and what a fine guitar player he was too. The apple certainly hasn't fallen far from the tree. As well as the 'Lead Belly' tribute earlier there is also an homage to ' John Martyn' and references to Nick Drake.  Not to mention a cover of the Ralph Mctell song 'Last Train and Ride' earlier. 

An encore was a must of course!

It has been a fantastic night of Blues without doubt, everyone leaves with a contented smile on their face. Great credit not only to Dom but to to 'Adrian' at Temperance for putting on such events. Venues of this quality are thin on the ground and should be cherished. Dom is destined for much bigger things without doubt, but he strikes me as the type of person who will stay close to his roots.  

I really look forward to seeing him with his full band later in the year. Maybe blasting out the likes of 'Bad Penny' and Bullfrog Blues'. By then I might even have a new phone, who knows?