Monday, 9 October 2023

Wrest Park - English Heritage

A little trip out into Bedfordshire to the English Heritage site of 'Wrest Park'. As well as the 18th Century mansion, there are also 90 acres of gardens and woodlands to explore. Plenty of follies hidden away in the grounds to find too.For over 600 years the estate was home to one of the countries leading leading aristocratic families, the 'De Grays'. In 1830  Thomas, Earl De Gray, rebuilt the house laying out formal gardens. During the First World War it was used as a hospital.First things first though as we have a wander around the house.  

 

I couldn't resist trying on an Army jacket and cap inside the house. It was encouraged, although I do look  a little sheepish.. The most striking part of the house for me is the magnificent Staircase Hall. Reaching the full height of the building the twin branches of the staircase draw the eye upwards to the family portraits adorning the walls. Other rooms include; the Entrance Hall, Ante - Library, Drawing Room, Sitting Room, Conservatory and Dining Room. I'm keen to get outside though and start exploring the grounds.

Chinese Temple and Bridge

Walking through the woodland the first point of interest is the Chines Temple and Bridge. Created somewhere between 1758 and 1761.The bridge has been rebuilt several times, lastly in stone in 1876 by Earl De Gray's daughter    Anne Florence Cowper. We pass by the Ladies' Lake with its statue of Diana and a Greyhound.  

I was a little disappointed with the 'Capability' Brown Column in truth. It commemorates his modification of the gardens in 1758-60. It was moved in 1828 to the present location at the north end of the Lady Duchess's Walk from the Bath house garden.  I suppose I was expecting something a little more grander given the reputation and work of 'Capability' Brown who seems to have been involved in so many projects.  

 Dog's Cemetery

In 1829, Thomas, 2nd Earl De Gray erected the Dog Monument, a statue of a dog on a stone pedestal.Many of the family's pets went on to be buried in this clearing in the woodland garden. These include 'Dorroch' the favourite dog of Aldine Cowper, and 'Little Dick', favourite of her sister Amabel.  There are 16 surviving headstones that date from 1830 to 1891. Although the majority are not in their original positions. 

Pet cemeteries were quite common features in country house gardens in the early Victorian period. It was the start of a shift in attitude towards animals and that affection held for them. We cut through to the impressive sight of the 'Long Water' encased on either side by walkways leading to the spectacular Archer Pavilion. Built by Thomas Archer between 1709-11.

Long Water
Pavilion

I'm quite enjoying ticking off the monuments as we wander around the gardens I must say. Something quite satisfying that appeals to my sense of order.  The Archer Pavilion is one of the crown jewels to see no doubt. It really is a geometrical  delight! From the outside it is quite misleading.Once inside the central room, three small and narrow spiral staircases lead to three small upper chambers, which cannot be seen from the outside of the building.There is also a basement with a kitchen, larder, bath and two-seater privy. Inspiration for the pavilion’s plan may have come from Michelangelo’s designs for San Giovanni dei Fiorentini in Rome.The central dome is equally as stunning,  reminding me of a mini version of the great Basilica in Florence. There is no doubt that it is a magnificent example of a Baroque style building. The statue in front of the Pavilion is of William III dressed as a Roman Emperor.

Mithraic Altar

We start to make the turn back towards the other side of the woodlands. Following the 'U' shaped river that provides a boundary to the estate. There are ripples in the water, several large Carp appear searching for a morsel. A tree is riddled with Mistletoe, I've rarely seen it a such a low level. The berries are still at the green stage but will eventually turn white. Leaving the path we discover the Mithraic Altar built in 1748 and made of stone and flint. Something of an elaborate intellectual joke of literally endeavour I'm told. Probably best to leave it there I think... 

Nothing like a friendly game of Bowls on a nice day. I think my style was good, even if the end result wasn't quite so good. Bowling Green house may have been built as a early as 1720-21. Inside it is richly decorated with a marble chimney-piece. We continue our walk through the 'Evergreen Garden. Previously known as the 'American Garden' due to the acid loving plants usually found in North America. 

At the centre of the garden is a statue called 'The Hawking Party' . It was made by the Irish Sculptor Terence Farrell. It was originally a horse and was intended for the stable block. A lady was with a Hawk was later added with a Page by her side. There are some nice views of the House as we approach from the other side. The last port of call before seeking out the comforts of the Cafe is the Orangery.  The days when it was stocked with French Orange trees are long gone. Supplied by King Louis Philippe of France himself. By the end of the 19th century there were said to be the largest in the country. They were wheeled out through concealed doors onto the slopes below. The Orangery itself was built in the late 1830's to a French style. 

The Bath House

The Bath House to be my favourite amongst the many statues and follies to visit. Surrounded by water with a natural spring was built between 1769 and 1771. They were very fashionable in Georgian gardens I'm told. Especially as Doctors recommended regular cold baths for health benefits. Very good for dealing with cases of Gout which were prevalent in the aristocracy. Too much rich living no doubt. A fitting end to a very enjoy wander around the grounds and gardens.

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