Peak District - Chatsworth Circular Walk (400th blog post)

A spectacular walk with lot's of interest for what is my 400th blog post. The weather forecast is a shocker, undeterred we still make the journey. I seem to have almost as much clothing as I took on holiday down to Devon. All sorts of gear, long trousers, waterproof over trousers, a dry pair of trousers for changing in to. A light fleece, a light rain jacket, a heavy rain jacket. And so the list goes on.......

We are starting the walk in the heart of The Peak District from the 'Robin Hood' pub at Baslow. The pub is strictly parking for customers only.

We park next door in the National Trust car park where the pay machine is out of order. Not much we can do in such a situation, except to thank our good luck and carry on. 

We are walking in an anti-clockwise direction and it's an uphill start. The good news is that the rain forecast is holding off.

 

The views are awesome and the rock climbers are out in force climbing up to the Nelson Monument.

The Nelson Monument monument consists of a three-metre tall grit-stone column with a 30 cm ball on top. It was erected in 1810 in honour of Admiral Lord Nelson, who had died at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805, by a local businessman from Baslow called John Brightman.

Before we reach the Wellington monument there are some serious Highland Cattle on Baslow Edge to negotiate. They seem very placid but I'm taking no chances and will walk around them giving them a wide berth. 

The Wellington Monument was erected in 1866 to commemorate a visit by the Duke of Wellington to the moor.

Baslow is a lovely village on the edge of the Chatsworth Estate. The village is overlooked by the dramatic grit-stone edges of Curbar Edge and Baslow Edge, and the River Derwent runs through it,

 

Highland Cattle

 

The Wellington Monument

During mid August and early September, the moors are carpeted in a rich mixture of purple and pink flowers of Heather. 

It really is spectacular particularly against the backdrop of the hills. 

We have now entered Chatsworth Park and Estate. The 1,000-acre park on the banks of the River Derwent was chiefly designed not surprisingly by Lancelot 'Capability' Brown in the 1760s. This guy seems to have had a hand in all the major garden designs.

He actually designed over 170 parks including the amazing Stowe Landscape Gardens. As well as Warwick Castle, Blenheim, Highclere, Kew Gardens and Harewood House. No wonder they called him 'Capability'!

 

The picture on the left shows Chatsworth in the distance amongst the Derbyshire Dales. 

The park contains historic and modern architecture and art including James Paine's bridges and mill and Queen Mary's Bower.Chatsworth House is home to the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire, and has been passed down through 16 generations of the Cavendish family.

Looming above the trees  is the highly impressive 'Hunting Tower.Standing on the escarpment 400 feet above Chatsworth House,on the edge of Stand Wood it is an imposing sight It was completed around 1582 for Bess of Hardwick, ancestress of the Dukes of Devonshire. It is now available to stay in as a holiday rental. A local was telling me it costs in excess of a thousand pounds per night though....

 

Walking along the banks of the River Derwent a Dipper is flitting between the rocks. It is soon joined by it's partner before disappearing downstream.Further on there is a flash of blue and Kingfisher flies under the bridge that marks the exit from the park.There is also a large Heron fishing patiently on the opposite bank. 

It is now a steep climb up towards Beeley Hilltop and Hell and Hell Bank Plantation. It is here we take an unscripted detour to try and find a stone circle marked on the map. 

The search involved crossing a marsh which was difficult and wet and was all to no avail. The stone circle was not to be revealed. 

 

 

Archie at Hob Hurst's House

Our next off piste excursion is more successful though! Hob Hurst's House sounds very intriguing and conjures up an image of a Hobbit like abode set amongst the hills. Even more so when you find out that the name refers to a common folklore character such as an Elf or a Giant, thought to live in a stone circle or a barrow.

It is a relatively small earthworks actually and not anywhere near as spectacular as I had hoped for. It does though date back to the bronze age, making it more than 3,000 years old. There are several other prehistoric cairns on the moors of a similar age.

The last part of the walk takes us past Gibbet Moor. Its highest point is 295 metres (968 ft) above sea level.A gibbet was a wooden structure (like a gallows) where the dead bodies of criminals were hung on display.

The last person to be gibbeted alive in England was a vagrant who was begging for food around Baslow and killed a woman in her cottage. The murderer was left to die in a gibbet cage on Gibbet Moor in the 17th century

We have a slight mishap at the end when an attempted shortcut takes us down the wrong route. We back track and take the planned rout which is on the edge of the busy main road. 

Safely back to the start point and amazingly still dry! We have covered just over 12 miles and it has been a great walk. Just time for a refreshing pint at The Robin Hood Inn. The pint in question being a very tasty 'Jennings' 'Night Vision' a dark session beer at 3.5%.    

Sidmouth and The Donkey Sanctuary

Our last day in Sidmouth and east Devon sadly. The plan had originally been to do a circular walk of around five miles taking in the Donkey Sanctuary. However after a leisurely breakfast and  a last wander down to the seafront time was against us.  

It has taken this long to discover 'The Byes Riverside Walk' ... We had previously walking up and down the High Street. 

It's a gentle walk between the Sidmouth Toll House and Sidford, partly beside the River Sid, flanked by pleasant meadows. It really is a beautiful green corridor of calm. 

As we progress towards the sea we find a ford through the River Sid. I notice that cyclists are not allowed to cross as deemed too dangerous!

 

The charming and unusual little toll house is thought to have been built for the Honiton and Sidmouth Turnpike Trust in 1817.

A small cottage in the Classical style with a small blue plaque indicates its origins as a toll house. The building is well cared for by the local council. It is Listed Grade II.

I have noticed a lot of blue plaques dotted around Sidmouth. In total there are 64. to commemorate notable buildings, or buildings associated with former notable residents of Sidmouth's historic past.  

I particularly liked the one one the remaining wall of what remains of the old jail complete with bars. Built around 1862, the jail had two small cells with barred windows and a slate roof. Next to it were two police cottages. The jail remained here until the 1890s.  

 

Saying goodbye to Sidmouth and hopefully not for the last time we move on to The Donkey Sanctuary. A British Charity devoted to the welfare of Donkeys. Founded by Elisabeth Svendsen in 1969 it is now one of the largest equine charities in the world. 

Many donkeys arrive at the charity because they are unwanted or have been neglected. But others are donated because of health reasons, companionship or the owner's circumstances have changed.

The main headquarters of the Donkey Sanctuary in Devon is open to the public 365 days a year from 9.00am to dusk with free admission and parking!

 

 

 

Donkeys of all ages live at the farm but a large percentage are elderly animals that remain there in order to be close to the veterinary hospital. Common problems for donkeys arriving at the clinics include signs of exhaustion, malnutrition and ailments of the teeth and feet.

Just inland from the Jurassic coast it is a beautiful and safe place for the donkeys to call home.

You can even adopt one of these creatures for just £3 a month. Sadly you can't one home, but you can be kept updated with what they are up to.

With support and funding donkeys are being helped not just in the UK but all over the world. It's a very quick stop off on our journey home and I'm sure we will visit again for longer in the future.

Exemouth - Jurassic Coast Boat Trip & Branscombe visit

A hearty breakfast was the order of the day courtesy of 'Stuart Line Cruise, as we made our way to Exmouth on the east bank of the mouth of the River Exe. I'm not always the best Sailor so felt it best to line ones stomach before taking to the ocean waves.  
We had booked ourselves on to a 'Jurassic Coast Cruises'. The promise of an 'award winning circular cruise' with live commentary from the Skipper and the discovery of how the world was formed was too tempting to resist. 

Safely parked up we made our way to the Exmouth Marina through some rather brightly coloured developments. There is a lot of activity today largely due to it being the start of the RS200 National Dinghy Racing Championship.with over 200 boats taking part. Quite a  sight as they make there way out to the starting point. I am immediately starting to regret not bringing a jumper as it is quite chilly by the water. We collect our tickets and get in the queue early to bag a good seat on the boat. Not a bad plan as it happened as there was already a sizeable queue almost an hour before departure time.Surprisingly enough we got good seats on the top deck right by the boarding gate.It was quite a relief and when one of the crew asked if anyone would like a blanket? Without any embarrassment whatsoever I claimed one immediately!

Dingy Racing

  
We watched the Dingy racers battling it out in the distance. Pretty good conditions too I would imagine? Everyone is now settled as we leave the Marina and the bar is open too! I'm not tempted though, alcohol and the open water are a bad combination for this one. Two ladies, one with an oversized shopping trolley have parked themselves next to us. They are mother and daughter, Mother is 86. She tells us that they are staying at a hotel in in Exmouth on the front. She also tells us that they have a massive full screen toilet in their room?? Her daughter points out that she has got her words muddled up again. We all have a laugh though and she sees the funny side of it. They come from Snodland in Kent. I casually mention that the singer 'Judge Dread' was from Snodland not expecting much recognition. Oh yes the lady said his Roadie lives two doors away from us , and they have named a close after him 'Alex Hughes Close' fantastic!

We head out past Budleigh Salterton and on to Ladram Bay and its thousands of Holiday Homes perched on the cliff top. We have also passed the point where Royal Marine Commandos begin their shooting practise into the sea. Thankfully they seem to be doing other things today. It is actually well managed for obvious reasons.Hundreds of Kittiwakes are nesting in the cliffs.

Kittiwakes nesting

Sea stack at Ladram Bay

 

Among the most impressive sights along the Jurassic Coast are the sea stacks at Ladram Bay. A geological landform consisting of a steep and often vertical column or columns of rock in the sea near a coast, formed by wave erosion. The sea stacks occur over a 1.5 mile stretch, from the far end of the sandy beach west of Sidmouth, westwards to Ladram Bay,

The sea finds weakness in the rocks to form caves and natural arches that have since collapsed to produce sea stacks.

These offshore rocks are topped with grass and moss and their sides are often covered by bright green seaweed, and this vegetation creates a photogenic contrast with the rich red of the bedrock, resulting in quite a spectacular coastal landscape.

The high, red sandstone and mudstone cliffs that form the majority of the western section of the Jurassic Coast are seen most spectacularly either side of Sidmouth, where they rise up to 500 feet above the English Channel.    

Carefully avoiding the paddle boarders and the kayakers the boat turns around and makes its way back to our starting point at Exmouth. 

Enjoyed the boat trip which was followed up with a late lunch and a pint, well it was my Birthday!

Moving on back up the coast in an Easterly direction we wanted to call in at Branscombe. Believed to be the longest village in England. Located at the meeting point of two valleys or combes, Branscombe's thatched cottages meander down a magnificent valley nearly all the way to the sea.

In January 2007 the area made the headlines when the Container Ship 'MSC Napoli' was beached at Branscombe. Lyme Bay is sheltered from northwest, west and southwest winds, common at that time of year.

While en route from Belgium to Portugal on 18 January 2007,severe gale-force winds and huge waves caused serious damage to Napoli's hull, including a crack in one side and a flooded engine room. This was some fifty miles off the coast of Cornwall. 

After containers from the wreck began washing up at Branscombe, around two hundred people went onto the beach to scavenge the flotsam.

The Anchor from the MSC Napoli

    

Another very enjoyable pint was had at 'The Masons Arms'. Avoiding the temptation of the excellent St Austell Ales I opted for the local brew from the 'Branscombe Vale' Brewery 'Summa This' (4.2%) an Amber best bitter with a smooth finish. They didn't have the 'Summa That' Pale Ale on tap unfortunately. 

Another great day and no better way to celebrate a Birthday!

Lyme Regis to Charmouth Fossil walk

 

Our first full day in East Devon and we cross the border into Lyme Regis in Dorset. It is well known for it's fossils in the cliffs and on the beaches. It lies in Lyme Bay on the English Channel coast. A Royal Charter was granted by King Edward I in 1284 and ' Regis' was added to the town's name. 

It's a Saturday and already it is very busy, we struggle to even get in the car park. We wander downhill to the harbour area. Once again it is a grey and cloudy day, but at least it is dry.

We explore a little and find out that the best beach for fossil hunting is at Charmouth further along the coast. At the moment it is currently cut off by the high tide. So we have a mooch around the charming town centre. There are lots of fossil shops as well as antiques and book shops too, just my thing. We then adjourn to the 'Cobb Arms' (another name for a harbour)for some liquid refreshment.

The tide is in

The tide is out

Suitably refreshed with a pint of Dorset Gold      we set off again along the promenade. Things are looking very different now as the tide has gone out. We can now make our way along the beach towards Charmouth. The pebble beach is already busy with walkers and fossil hunters. Fossils can come from almost anywhere along the Jurassic Coast. Certainly but this stretch between Lyme Regis and Charmouth is regarded as the best. 

Many of the fossil hunters have though come prepared with their hammers and chisels. I think that the most important tool though is your eyes!
 

Busy fossil seekers hard at it!

Thankfully many fossils simply lie exposed amongst the beach pebbles, just waiting to be spotted after some 190 million years. .It's a game of patience though and is strangely addictive. 

The best time is usually after a storm, particularly in the winter when it is quieter. It was on these beaches that one of Lyme's most famous citizens 'Mary Anning' (1799-1847), discovered the first complete 'Ichthyosaurus' to be found in England, and she was just 12-years-old at the time. They, along with 'Plesiosaurs' and other incredible sea creatures are found to this day. 

My luck changes as I find a bullet shaped fossil called a 'Belemnite'. Belemnites are the internal hard parts of a squid-like animal.The spiral shaped Ammonite (a long extinct member of the mollusc family a bit like a nautilus) is more common but is proving somewhat elusive today. I carry on towards Charmouth keeping my eyes open for further treasure.

Golden Cap in the distance

Looking along the beach here, the second cliff you can see is the Golden Cap, the highest point on the South Coast 627ft (191m). Unfortunately I haven't the time to climb today which is a shame. Golden Cap is a high, flat-topped hill of deep orange sandstone on the cliffs between Charmouth and Bridport, and is comprised of two ages of rock from the Jurassic and Cretaceous periods.with views along the shore to the tip of Portland Bill in one direction and to Start Point in the other. Inland, you can see Pilsdon Pen and as far as Dartmoor.The top of the cliff is made of superficially golden coloured sandstone called the Upper Greensand that formed in the Cretaceous Period about 100 million years ago. (Hence the name).

My fossil collection and another below

Walking back towards Lyme Regis The first cliff you pass on the right is Black Ven, while the second set of cliffs are called the Spittles. Ven’ is a local word for ‘fen’ and refers to the boggy slopes of these constantly shifting and falling cliffs. You can see the layers of clay in both cliffs – these get wet when it rains and new fossils are constantly washing out. The Spittles are where Mary Anning found her famous 'Ichthyosaurus'

I catch up again with Marina, who has perched herself on a rock while I walked to Charmouth. I notice a particularly large boulder close by with a hairline crack. This could be the one perhaps? Arming myself with several slightly smaller boulders I begin my assault on trying to break up the larger object.It reminds me of picking up and throwing a medicine ball repetitively at the floor in the gym. The first dozen or so have little effect and just bounce off. Eventually something has to give, either me or the immovable rock. At last a direct hit and it splits into two! 

There was definitely something there inside the rock, some form of crystal, gray to green colour that was glistening. It was far too big to heavy to carry or fit in the rucksack so I set about smashing it up into smaller pieces. Leaving the majority on the beach I selected a hand sized piece that I would keep for myself.  

Further down the beach we came across a Jurassic Cost Guide. I couldn't wait to show him my piece of treasure. He quickly identified it as 'Calcite' a carbonate mineral and the most stable polymorph of calcium carbonate. He went on to say what an excellent find it was, but such a pity that it was only a small part of what would likely have been a huge piece of Calcite originally and that would have been special ......At this point I kept very quiet and thanked him for his help and we continued on our way. 

 

 

 

Things look very different now that tide has fully retreated. The rock pools have been revealed and I even have a little paddle in the sea. The sun has come out as well, so it really is a picture perfect scene down on the shore. Back in the harbour area the beach is packed with those who don't wish to stray too far. 

Our little wander to Charmouth and back was just over  4.5 miles.