The John Bunyan Trail (6) Westoning , Sharpenhoe & Harlington

 

Westoning Clock Tower

Back on the John Bunyan Trail in the village of Westoning, half a mile south of Flitwick. The first point of interest on another cold and dank day is the impressive Clock Tower. The plaque shows that it was erected by J.G Coventry Campion. Given by the parishioners and friends of Westoning to commemorate the sixtieth year of reign by Queen Victoria 1837-1897. John Gadsby Coventry Campion was Lord of the Manor and also chairman of the Parish Council in 1897 (for the third time).         

Moving on we pass under the railway bridge towards Samshill Farm. Sadly on the crossroads is another example of the blight of the countryside. Although it does seem to be everywhere these days. I'm referring to 'Fly-tipping' of course. Tiles, fascias and all sorts of other items were spread all over the road. The culprits should be hung up by their soffits at the very least. I understand the problem has worsened, particularly since Council refuse sites have placed restrictions, and charges on what can be disposed of. In Northampton the the litter 'Wombles' do a fantastic job clearing up. Otherwise I think we would be knee deep in rubbish...

 

Samshill Farm

On the night of November 12th 1660, ignoring words of advice from his friends Bunyan began to preach at a farm in a Hamlet, then known as 'Lower Samsell'. All was well until he was disturbed by the local constabulary with an arrest warrant. he Trail takes us right past the low key farm entrance. There is no indication of its historic past sadly. 

I wonder how much the farm has changed since those times? Probably not too much I suspect. We continue on the Trail towards Higham Bury, passing a very impressive looking house and gardens on our right. Lots of new fencing and fast growing shrubs have recently been planted to keep out prying eyes. Passing Hill Farm in the direction of Pilloxhill we encounter a huge Water Tower. Pulloxhill being a former Quaker village could well have been the inspiration behind the 'Hill Lucre'. A place where Pilgrims were tempted to search for treasure in the silver mine in the hill. At one time there was thought to be gold in Pulloxhill! The "mine" was discovered in 1680. It was immediately seized as a royal mine but whatever was found there proved not to be worth the cost of separation.

Higham Bury House

There are reports that Pulloxhill was besieged by would-be gold miners for months after the discovery. It is unclear when the mine was abandoned: one report says it was closed by 1683, another that it was not abandoned until 1750. The biggest mystery surrounding the mine is what was found? We continue on the 'Bunyan Trail' towards Portobello Farm as we head in the direction of Sharpenhoe. At the foot of the hills known as the 'Sharpenhoe Clappers'.

Bunyan's Oak in the distance.

We will walk 'The Clappers' another day. Hopefully a clear one when the views should be great. We have moved through an area on the map called 'Wateroff'. There isn't too much of interest really until we reach 'Horsehill Spinney on the Barton Road  east of Harlington. It is on the Harlington Heritage Trail and has the following wording:

Bunyan's Oak

Christian preacher and author of
"The Pilgrim's Progress"

John Bunyan (1628-1688)
delivered sermons from the natural pulpit
of the oak tree located in the,
field opposite, prior to being sent to
Bedford Gaol for 'field-preaching'.

This is to be the first of several Blue Plaques to be discovered in the village of Harlington. A hill top village in a rural setting, surrounded by Green Belt and the Chilterns ‘Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty’ (AONB). The parish church of St. Mary the Virgin was built by the Augustinian monks of Dunstable Priory in the 13th century. The altar is made from the bough of a tree that Bunyan stood beneath when he preached at Upper East End. A stained glass window depicts scenes from Pilgrim’s Progress.

The church of St. Mary the Virgin

The Grand National steeplechase held at Aintree in Liverpool is probably one of the most famous horse races in the world.Who knew though that the origins of the race can be traced to a pre-existing race, known as the ‘Great St. Albans Steeplechase’. It was originally run in Bedfordshire, from Harlington to Wrest Park, near Silsoe, and back again, over a total distance of approximately four miles.The first race of its kind to be staged in England, the Great St. Albans Steeplechase proved a huge success, so much so that, by 1834, it was a major event, attracting runners from all over the country. So much so that it came to the attention of William Lynn, a well known sports promoter who had been staging race meetings, on the Flat, at Aintree since 1829.He then went on to devise a similar race of his own, to start and finish near the grandstands at Aintree; the rest, as they say, is history. The second Blue Plaque of the day is found on the church tower to commemorate the first ever race on Monday 8th March 1830. Sixteen horses took part, the winner being 'The Wonder' ridden by Captain McDowall. 

It's a smashing village Harlington, and even has a Blue Plaque Heritage trail. We spot another one by the way, 'John Benet' Vicar of Harlington from around 1442 - 1472. Famed for his Chronicles published in Latin in the 15th Century. They are now held in Trinity College Dublin.

 

Following his arrest Bunyan was taken before the local magistrate Francis Wingate at Harlington Manor. Back then it was known as 'Harlington House'.The large gabled house stands on the corner of Station Road and Westoning Road. It is privately owned and only one side can be seen from the road. It is the only occupied residential house connected to Bunyan. 

After being questioned he was imprisoned for 12 years in Bedford county gaol. His charge being 'Preaching without a license'. While serving his sentence he began writing his most famous work, 'The Pilgrims Progress'. He would have had a few privileges whilst imprisoned, such as visits from friends and food parcels. Otherwise it would have been a pretty grim existence I would imagine. 

Bunyan was released in 1672 due to the Declaration of Indulgence, which allowed nonconformists to preach if they had a license. 

We make our way out of the village, amongst the undergrowth and brambles the set of Blue Plaques is completed.Close to the footpath, near the Upper School still on the Bunyan Trail lies the plaque of  'Sir Ralph Pirot' 1226 - 1305. In the field opposite field once stood the moated Harlington Manor House. Built by the Pirot family in the late 13th/early 14th century. 

Sir Ralph Pirot was one of King Edward I's first professional soldiers. He was an active Partisan of Simon De Monfort during the Barons War, against the royalist forces of King Henry III. He was also a key figure in the battle of Northampton in 1624. Taking Simon De Montfort's side in an unsuccessful rebellion, then being imprisoned in the Tower of London 1273 - 12760.

A blurry view of the distant Sundon hills

 We follow the 'Bunyan Trail along the side of the railway line back to the tunnel we came under earlier to complete the loop. It has been a fascinating walk with much to see. In total  a distance of just over 10 miles covered.