Lindisfarne (Holy Island) Visit

A visit to Lindisfarne, also called Holy Island needs a bit of of planning. The island of Lindisfarne is located along the northeast coast of England, close to the border with Scotland. The nearest point to the mainland is about 0.8 miles (1.3 kilometres). It is accessible at low tide by a causeway. Today, the 17th August the causeway is safe to cross between 03:35 until 12:05. Coming back the times are 16:35 until 00:15 (Sun). I was quite surprised at the difference from the day before (02:00 until 11:10 and 15:00 until 23:25). I suspect a complicated explanation so will leave that piece of investigation for another day. Plenty of other interesting things to write about to keep me busy. Safely on the island we follow the trail of cars to the 'pay and display' field. They aren't daft either when it comes to charging. You pay by the hour up to the first 4 hours.It then immediately reverts to an all day charge. What you might call a captive audience. Unless you fancy a swim of course!

The Harbour

Unsure of our bearings we follow the tourist trail into the centre of Lindisfarne. If in doubt get a map, which is what I did. I spent most of the day trying to fold it back to its original state at various intervals. A plan is hatched to follow thee 3 mile nature trail , taking in some of the key sites along the way. In the distance on a rocky plateau standing proudly is Lindisfarne Castle. From around 1570 onwards, garrisons of soldiers were placed here to man weapons and keep their eyes on the horizon for potential trouble. To our right is the harbour , Seals are bobbing up and down merrily. In the far distance you can see the remains of the priory. Somewhere we shall return to later.

Lime Kilns

The next point of interest are the old Lime Kilns at Castle Point. They were used to burn Limestone from the north of the island. Built in 1860 they were abandoned by 1900.  The lime was used for spreading on the fields or making Lime mortar. Much of which was exported to Scotland by boat  from jetties below the castle. 

 

View from the Rocky Shore

Looking out to sea across the Rocky Shore you can see both The Farne Islands and Bamburgh Castle in the distance. On the shoreline is the occasional wading bird, such as a Knot or Curlew. We cut back inland to have a look at the 'Gertrude Jekyll' Garden. As one of the top gardeners at that time she was invited to create a small walled garden just north of the castle in 1911. From here there is a nice vie of the castle which I have posted below. We return to the coastal path heading up towards 'The Lough' and the birdwatching hide. It is believed the small freshwater lake was dug out by Monks, for water and for fish.   

A Swallow flies over the Lough

We continue on the path until it meets the marker post for 'Straight Lonnen'. This will take us back to our starting point back in the village. There is a detour at this point if you turn right though. Tough the dunes and to the bay. Seals are regularly seen and a variety of seabirds. There are around 4,000 Gray Seals on the sands, rocky shores and mudflats of Lindisfarne.

We return the village for a welcome brew, Green Tea in my case and prepare for the rest of the trip.

Lindisfarne is a special place , there is no doubt. There has been life here since the Stone Age, some 10,000 years ago. It is a very important location for Christianity. Possibly the holiest site of Anglo-Saxon England, The famous Saints associated with the island are Aidan, A monk and Missionary from Iona. Cuthbert was a solitary leader and healer who struggled with the demands of the world and his calling.

Aidan was invited to the island by the King of Northumbria, Oswald in 633. The original monastery was rampaged and destroyed by The Vikings. The Rainbow Arch is an iconic image of the old Priory. Saint Cuthbert would later succeed Aidan in 684 as Bishop of Lindisfarne, starting as a Prior around 665. Cuthbert retired in 676, moved by the desire for a quieter life.St Cuthbert Island (also known as Hobthrush island) is located just off Holy Island. As the tide rises, it becomes completely separated from Holy Island. The legend is that St Cuthbert used to escape here when he wanted to retreat away from the monks in the abbey.  St Cuthbert died in 687, his body entombed in Durham Cathedral. 

Statue of St Aidan

St Cuthbert's Island

While the medieval Monks held their services inside the Priory, the Church of St Mary the Virgin was used by the parishioners. It is immediately to the west of the Priory church. 

The present church is built over and around an earlier Saxon Church. Likely to be the site f the first wooden church built by St Aidan. It is possible that St Mary's remained in use through the period between 875 when the monastery may have been abandoned and the founding of the Priory in the early 12th century. 

 

St Mary's Church

'The Heugh' (pronounced ‘Hee-uff’) is an elevated rocky ridge  created by magma 295 million years ago. It rises above the village and is known to geologists as the Holy Island Dyke. It is the site of a former Coastguard observation tower that is now open to the public. I climbed up the stairs to a stunning 360-degree view of the island. The Heugh is also home to the war memorial, designed by Lutyens, and which commemorates islanders who died in the two world wars.More distant views across the sea to The Farne Islands and Bamburgh castle are to the south. Closer to home there are great views of the priory (to the north) the harbour and the castle (to the east) and St Cuthbert's Island (to the west).  

It has been a fantastic visit , in the distance cars are starting to queue on the causeway as the tide retreats. Time for us to make our way back to Alnwick too I suspect!