East Haddon and Holdenby Walk

The setting for today's walk  is the lovely village of East Haddon. It is a route taken from the Northamptonshire Walks website (walk no:86).

The walk started outside the Church of St Mary the Virgin on what was a bleak Autumn morning. Heavy rain is forecast for the afternoon so we needed to get cracking , at least it was fairly mild! 

We walk down Main Street passing the old thatched Water Pump that supplied the village before there was a mains supply. Then the passing the Red Lion Pub and into countryside.

The footpath goes in two different directions, we climb the stile and head across open fields to the right . Lots of inquisitive sheep around as we approach another stile. 

In the distance the weather has started to close in and it's a very murky picture, visibility is poor and the rain has increased. 

It's a great shame because the views across the valley would be superb , at the moment it's just a drizzly blur. We cross a recently ploughed field which is a bit muddy.From there it is over another stile and a downhill trek along the field edge towards a farm.

Navigating through the farmyard and barns proved quite tricky. I'm always wary of upsetting the farmer who suddenly appears with a shotgun screaming 'get off my land. Thankfully all went peacefully and we made our way into more open fields.

Oak Trees

It was at this point we went slightly wrong. Climbing the stile we continued downhill instead of going straight across and uphill. After backtracking we picked up the path which is part of the Macmillan Way.

There are another couple of stiles to cross as you go through the Holdenby estate  through well trodden paths. 

On reaching the road the walk continues straight across into the Holdenby estate. We took a slight detour to the right to look at Holdenby House.

The House dates back to 1583. Once the largest private house in England and subsequently the palace of James 1 and prison of Charles 1. Sitting on a hill overlooking 2000 acres of rolling countryside, its suite of elegant state rooms open onto beautiful Grade 1 listed gardens. It isn't open today though although that didn't stop us having a wander up the driveway for a closer but respectful look.

Getting back on track we head into the Holdenby Estate. Unless my eyes are deceiving me it has stopped raining and brightened up a little too! It's a bit like stepping back in time into an area where former estate workers would have lived. I suspect some probably still do?

There is a lovey old school building  with it's lovely red door. It's not hard to imagine life here in a bygone era at all.

There is little sign of live anywhere in the hamlet today though. Everybody must be hunkered down indoors keeping warm and dry. 

We make our way downwards following the sign for the historic church. 

Autumn colour

We take a slight detour to visit 'All Saints Church which was unlocked , a rarity these days. The church now lies remote and isolated beside fields and a pond, beyond the gardens of Holdenby House. it is largely fourteenth century but the chancel was rebuilt in 1845 and Sir George Gilbert Scott restored the church in 1867. They say it is the church that lost it's village! Sir Christopher Hatton, Elizabeth I's Lord Chancellor, moved the village of Holdenby when he built his mansion. The name Holdenby derives from the time of Scandinavian settlements 'Halfdan'(or Haldane) meaning farm. It is mentioned in the Domesday book of 1086, and first records having a Rector around 1222. The whole church is built of local ironstone.

Unfortunately the rain has set in again and the wind is driving it in. There isn't a lot of cover on this part of the walk and it's a fairly bleak scene. 

To compound matters we take a wrong turn and have to backtrack. Thankfully not a huge detour and we follow the farm track  until reaching a signpost marked East Haddon on way, Althorp the other. 

We take the East Haddon path and we really are in the middle of nowhere, well it seems like it anyway.

We did see one other walker though, another hardy soul braving the elements. The route takes us up a steep hill, which was a bit of a struggle in the conditions. I'm sure the views would have been quite spectacular on a clear day from the summit. Today wasn't that day though. 

To our left is an old boarded up farmhouse 'Rowell Leyes'.  Having made it to the top of the hill without the need for oxygen a slight breather is taken. 

Following the field edge we head towards another farm building, they clearly don't welcome visitors or sodden walkers judging by the keep out boards.  Sticking to the edge of the field we make our way to the laying field at East Haddon. I once played cricket for EH just before the pavilion was built. From there it is just a matter of following the path downhill back into the village. Coming out opposite the Red Lion. 

     

North Marston - Swans Way (7)

 

Back on the Swans Way today and the circular route starting at North Marston looks as though it has some points of interest to explore. 

We had literally only just parked up and begun walking in a clockwise direction when we stumbled upon something really amazing and interesting.Well I think so anyway.

It came in the form of 'The Schorne Well'.  Sir St John Scorne was rector of the parish of North Marston in 1920. At least he was often  referred to as a saint who, it is claimed, performed many miracles. These included finding cures for gout and toothache. It was during a drought that he discovered a well whose waters were said to have miraculous properties. 

Being a deeply religious man  he is believed to have cast the Devil into a boot! He is often pictured holding a boot with a Devil in it. Although referred to as a Saint he was never canonised. This didn't stop his shrine in the local church becoming a place of pilgrimage following his death. 

The Schorne Well

John Schorne

There is a little slot for donating coins next to the boot. I was really hoping that when I dropped some coins down that the Devil would rise out of the boot. Although there is a Devil inside, it didn't rise without me pulling it up by the horns. The whole concept was thought to be the origin of the children's  toy 'Jack in the Box'.

The pump on the right side did dispel water into the square trough though. 

It's a great start to the walk and it won't get any better than this surely?

We carry on towards Pitchcott Hill and are soon in beautiful unspoiled countryside. We are on a public right of way 'Matthews Way', a circular walk of 10km between North Marston and Quainton. Dedicated to 'Matthew Lane' of North Marston who died on 25th October 1996 in the John Radcliffe Hospital during corrective heart surgery. He was just 11and a half months old ........  

 

It is cloudy and a little murky but quite mild, as always I seem to be wearing one layer too many. At least you can always took a layer off. It really can get quite warm when walking and I probably don't take on as much fluid as I should either.  

The railway bridge at Waddesdon and site of the the former Waddesdon Station marks our furthest point. 

The line is still used for a daily freight train carrying waste from London to Calvert, as well as special services between Aylesbury and Quainton Road for events at The Buckinghamshire Railway Centre. Sadly no signs of any steam trains today although we did hear one in the distance.  

 

We find the point from which the next leg of the journey will start and make our way back over the bridge and continue the circular route that will eventually takes us back to North Marston.

We are back on The Swans Way and there is even a signpost to indicate the fact ! 

Nestled in the hills to our back I can just about make out Waddesdon Manor in the gloom. The next leg of the walk will take us much closer though. But for now we have Alpacas and a windmill to keep us busy! 

We do have to take a slight detour to get a glimpse of 'Buckinghamshire's tallest working windmill'. Feels as though I should be saying that in an Alan Partridge style voice. 

Built in 1830-1832 it was derelict for most of the 20th century but now fully restored and grinding wheat into flour. 

It is an example of a tall six-story windmill and is the third tallest windmill in England. It was altered to be operated by an auxiliary steam engine which unusually was placed within the structure of the mill.

Getting back on track again we have a hill to climb ! 

Its a long and steady climb up to Quainton Hill. It's well worth the effort though with fantastic panoramic views from the top of the Chilterns, Cotswolds and over North Buckinghamshire (even the new Snow Dome at Milton Keynes on a fine day).

The path takes us directly up the hill to the telecommunications mast; as long as you walk uphill towards the mast you are going in the right direction.Even on a cloudy day like today the views are fantastic.

 

Once off the hills it is a matter of deciding to complete the last part of the walk on road or by field? As we missed the footpath we decided to carry on by road back to North Marston. Marston being a common English village name meaning 'Farm by a Marsh'. We pass the village pub and I'm pleased to see that it it has an appropriate name ' The Pilgrim' in honour of the Schorne Well.The village also has it's own little pond to keep the wildlife happy!

Its been a superb walk and comes in a fraction over 10 miles. 

Duck pond at North Marston

 

 

Castle Ashby and Whiston Walk

 

A walk I've wanted to do for a long time now. Today I shall be following the route detailed on the Northamptonshire walks website. 

Starting point is the rural shopping yard at Castle Ashby. I don't feel guilty about leaving the car there as I'm sure we shall enjoy a cup of tea when we finish the walk. 

We set off  to the left after leaving the car park with a view of Castle Ashby house close by.

A 10,500 acre estate that is still lived in by Lord Compton 7th Marquess of Northampton.

  

 

Autumnal colours on this lovely cottage

It's a pleasant Autumn day and I've probably gone with a clothing layer too many. We veer right at a  signpost in the direction of Chadstone. Some lovely Autumn colours are already on display. 

Another signpost directs us uphill with some great views. Looking back we can make out Castle Ashby House and Whiston Church standing proud. 

Whiston Church

 

 

The path takes us through a small spinney and down to a smashing free flowing stream. It's a lovely scene with the fallen logs and the calming sound of the water.

  

  We cross the small bridge out of this oasis of tranquility.   

 

 

This involved climbing a flight of stairs known locally as 'Jerusalem Steps'. They are quite steep actually and we are in an area known as 'The Firs'. 

We follow the path ignoring another set of steps to the right. With hindsight I think we have deviated slightly from the marked route. It doesn't make a great deal of difference as we reach the road in a slightly different place. We cross the road and over a well marked path in a ploughed field. 

We are now in the village of Cogenhoe and can see the church to our left. Walking down the lane takes us into the Cogenhoe Mill Holiday park.  It is here that we pick up the Nene Way footpath, an area that I have walked in the Summer and on previous occasions. It is now a matter of following the river path for about a mile until Whiston Lock is reached. 

Cogenhoe Mill

River Nene

The next part of the walk is a little dull and quite muddy today. It's the track that takes you to the road and on to Whiston. 

It's a steady climb up to the village of Whiston and there are some nice houses too. A stone memorial commemorates the Queens Silver Jubilee in 1977. However it is nothing compared to the last hundred yards or so climb up to the church ... Having played badminton already in the morning my quad muscles are starting to protest. Thankfully there is a bench by the church and I am grateful for a sit down ! The views are superb though, in the distance you can see the church at Earls Barton. Looks pretty dark over there and somebody is getting a soaking. Thankfully I think it has swerved around us. 

Silver Jubilee memorial

 

The Church of St Mary the Virgin was built to the orders of  Anthony Catesby ( 1500 – 1554) of the significant Northamptonshire Catholic family whose main seat was at Ashby St Ledger ( and later “ famous” for their involvement in the Gun Powder Plot ). Anthony Catesby himself owned the Manor at Whiston and he built his new church adjacent to his house at the top of the hill ( it can only be reached up the steep path mentioned). The most striking element is perhaps the iron and limestone striped tower which can be seen from miles around.

It is believed that the church was completed in 1534.  On the left hand side is a crypt. Sadly the gate is padlocked, I could easily have climbed over for a better look but decided it would be disrespectful . It looked as though a local bird had been busy building a nest in the entrance though. 

 

Rear view of the church through the trees

We exit to the rear of the church over the wall and into fields. From there on it is a matter of following the path all the way back to the road. The road in question leads back in to Castle Ashby and is another climb , easier walking on the road than on the verge. 

We pass the old Falcon Inn which was derelict for some time but has now re-opened as a hotel. 

The village war memorial looks very smart and well cared for, preparing for Remembrance Sunday I expect. Rounding the bend we are back to our starting point and the walk is complete. 

Around about 6.5 miles and quite testing in places it's been very enjoyable . Now for that cup of tea! (Herbal of course).