Fairport Convention Cromer Pier

Oh I do like to be beside the Seaside, particularly the North Norfolk coast and Cromer. At the end of the Pier tonight It's all the fun of the 'Fairport Convention'. There has always been entertainment on the jetty even before the Pier was built. It was Herr Moritz Wurm and the Blue Viennese Band who kicked it all off in 1901. Seaside Special was held here in 1978. As well as a yearly 'Folk on the Pier' Festival. Fortified by a couple of pints and a curry we make our way onto the Pier.     

In the bar Dave 'Peggy' Pegg is helping out at the 'merch' stall, and acting as 'Chief Wine Taster'. He is in great form and we have a quick chat. 2024 is the 57th anniversary of the band.This Autumn Tour promises a mix of long-established Fairport favourites and some surprises from albums old and new. No drums tonight though , Dave Mattacks is on another continent. However we do have founding member Simon Nicol on guitar and vocals, Dave Pegg on Bass Guitar and vocals, Ric Sanders on Violin, Chris Leslie on, Mandolin, Banjo, Fiddle, Flutes and vocals.In what will be something of an acoustic show. I also managed to grab a few words with Mr Leslie as he tuned up on the stage. I asked him if 'Hiring Fair'(my wife's favourite) might get an airing tonight? He explained that even old favourites have to take a holiday every so often. He was, just as I had imagined a lovely chap, and was happy to let me take a photo. . 

 

Chris Leslie

We are sitting to the right of the stage, looking across to our left. Not a bad view at all really although the seat isn't the most comfortable. I apologise to those sitting around me for my wriggling around. Finally settled, the band take to the stage and open up in traditional style with 'Walk a While'. from the 1970 album 'Full House'. We are still looking for overnight success quips Simon Nicol. We drop back further in time with 'Crazy Man Michael' from 'Liege & Lief''. There follows a beautiful rendition of 'Now be Thankful, written by Richard Thompson and Dave Swarbrick. There is always great reverence and respect shown to former band members and other songwriters. The first half is a really well crafted set of songs. Chris Leslie tells us about his love of the local funfair turning up. The excitement it brought to him as a small child. Banbury did very well tonight with many a mention. 

Fairport Convention

The first half ends with 'Cider Rain' from the excellent 2019 album 'Shuffle and Go'. Simon announces an interval of 20 minutes is going to take place. The band would be most grateful if the audience could take theirs at the same time to avoid any confusion. It was really warm in the intimate surroundings of the Pier Theatre.I step outside and take in the fresh salty night air. It is vet calm and dare I say mild for late October. The town of Cromer looks very pretty all lit up. In Pride of place stands the Hotel De Paris, a stunning Regency building built on the seafront in 1820.  In It's glory days high profile guests including artists and financiers such as Rockfeller, Rothschild, Vanderbilt based themselves there. Oscar Wilde is said to have stayed there and Stephen Fry worked as a Waiter, maybe that last bit is an urban myth?

Enough of all the romanticising about the past, there is a second half to enjoy! 'Slips Jigs and Reels penned by the wonderful 'Steve Tilston'. Each song is given an introduction and a little of history behind it. Something I really like and find interesting. Banbury crops up again with the joyous 'Year of 59'. Another Chris Leslie song about a possible UFO visit to the area.The 'James Taylor 'Frozen Man' follows. Simon tells us about his chance meeting with the great singer/songwriter. He asked him what he thought of their version of the song. 'The best I've heard' he tells Simon, although it is the only one... 'Bloxham Boy' 'Ric Sanders in true 'end of the Pier' fashion regales the audience with his latest comedy routine. A prelude to his instrumental song ' Steampunkery'. He also pays tribute to founding Grateful Dead Bassist Phil Lesh who sadly passed a day earlier.

The back catalogue of Mr Nicol also gets delved into with 'Over the Lancashire Hills'. A song written by 'Stuart Marson' and featured on the 'Before you were here' album. Recorded at the Woodworm Studio by none other than Mr Pegg. Simon tells the audience how 'Peggy' used to be quite the lead guitarist! Before opting for less strings and softer tones , but still on the same money!! The night is drawing to it's close, the denouement (I've never used that word before) provides the opportunity for a certain Matty Groves to get led astray once more. At last some Folk Rock, or Frock as they like to call it. Dressing up is optional. One of these days I'm sure Old Matty is going to give Lord Donald what for.  

The band are way past doing the disappearing and coming back on encore malarkey. Instead they stay seated, covering their faces with their instruments. That's the way to do it! As I'm sure Mr Punch must have said many a time on this very Pier.    

All that remains, as any Fairport devotee will know is for the 'Anthem' 'Meet On the Ledge'.  Such a poignant song by the great Richard Thompson, sounding as great today as when first written in 1968. I'm sure I saw my wife wiping a way a tear from her eye, she wouldn't be the only one. A rousing finish to a wonderful night. 

The band show no sign of slowing down on stage or touring. They will be on the road again for their Winter Tour complete with Dave Mattacks on the drum kit. Whatever the line up they are always well worth seeing A band without peer I'm tempted to say given the location tonight.......    

Caught up with Peggy again afterwards who kindly signed the set list given to me by Chris Leslie. Tomorrow they are in the Capital, underneath the Cutty Sark no less!

The John Bunyan Trail (2) Lilley

Back in Hertfordshire for the second leg of the 'Bunyan Trail'. Or 'Peter's Progress' as I like to think of it. The village of 'Lilley', situated somewhere between Luton and Hitchin is the starting point.  Thankfully the heavy rain has given way to fleeting sunshine, on an otherwise mild and pleasant day. Lilley stands on high ground, so the theory is that it should be fairly dry underfoot. The village cricket club is one of the oldest in Hertfordshire. Fixtures date back to the mid 1890's. We get straight on the Bunyan trail as we pass the 'Lilley Arms' the only pub in the village. The track widens and climbs steadily as it passes Ward's Wood'. We keep climbing until we reach South Bedfordshire Golf Club. The trees are just starting to adopt their Autumn best colour.

 

The Lilley Arms

Over to our right is the imposing looking 'Galley Hill'. Warden and Galley Hills Nature Reserve was the first nature reserve in Luton. Warden Hill is over to our left, both are great areas for Butterflies and wild flowers. 

Near the top of Galley Hill two Bronze Age barrows can be found. These were excavated in the 1960s and the remains of 14 burials were found in the largest barrow. In the Middle Ages a gallows was built on top of one of the barrows to be used for public executions.

 

Dark clouds are gathering over the hill. They have past us and the sunshine is gaining the upper hand in the battle. Along the base of 'Warden's Hill' the map shows  'Drays Ditches'. They aren't really visible though and have got swallowed up by the golf course I  suspect? They were originally dug in the Bronze Age as boundaries to separate tribal groups. However, later on in the Iron Age these were built up as a way to control the traffic along the Icknield Way. (Which runs from the end of the Ridgeway National Trail at Ivinghoe Beacon, near Tring, to the start of the Peddars Way National Trail at Knettishall Heath, near Thetford, for 110 miles). We follow the path through the golf course before crossing over the A6.

  'The Theed Way' Trail to Galley & Warden Hills marker.

Keech Hospice Elephant

We reach the 'Keech Hospice'  as we turn right in the direction of Streatly Bury. In the hospice grounds brightly coloured Elephants are gathered amongst the undergrowth shade. At this point the Bunyan Trails joins up with The Icknield Way. Some lovely views across the fields and hedgerows as the sun makes a breakthrough. Cutting through a small spinney, crossing back over the A6 past the 'Swedish Cottages' on the Chiltern Way. (a 125-miles circuit extending from Ewelme in the south west,taking in Bedfordshire, Buckinghamshire, Hertfordshire & Oxfordshire). The path takes us through Maulden Firs where we once again link up with the Icknield Way. Did I mention that this is one of the oldest roads in Britain? It has been in existence before the Romans came, although as is often the case this is open to some debate. 

Icknield Way Sign

This stretch runs from Ivinghoe Beacon to one of the jewels of the Chilterns 'The Pegsdon Hills'. Steep chalk hills with some of the best views in the county.

We drop back on the Bunyan Trail which will takes us back to our starting point at Lilley. 

Once again this area of south Bedfordshire, and North Hertfordshire has surprised in a good way. Really impressed  how the landscape informs the imagery of Pilgrim's Progress. A total of 9.5 miles walked today!

The John Bunyan Trail (1) Barton Le Clay & Hexton

Exciting times! The start of a new long distance path 'The John Bunyan Trail'. A 124 km/77 mile walk dedicated to the Puritan Evangelist and author of the book 'Pilgrim's Progress' that he wrote in prison in 1678. As always we will be doing the walk in circular routes. and therefore a lot longer than the 77 miles. The routes will pass through a number of attractive villages and scenic countryside, taking in many places of historic interest connected with Bunyan. He travelled the county preaching, that in Charles II time was illegal and he was arrested and jailed for 12 years. He remains a figure of considerable historical and religious and literary importance particularly in Bedford.I'm hoping to learn at lot more about this important historical figure as the walk progresses. There are links with the Greensand Ridge Walk, Icknield Way Path and North Bedfordshire Heritage Trail. 

 

Starting point today is the village of Barton Le Clay. We are 36 miles north of London, between Bedford and Luton. Given all the recent torrential rain and flooding the route has been carefully chosen. Low lying areas around the River Ouse have been avoided at all costs. Instead we are in the vicinity of a chalk download on the edge of the Chiltern Hills. We set off in a clockwise direction with the Barton Hills Nature Reserve away to our right.We will be circling around to the hills as we progress through the walk. The sun is shining brightly behind the hills, making photography a bit hazy. Conditions underfoot are very boggy, hopefully this is as bad as it will get?

To our left is flat open countryside , the type I would have expected from Bedfordshire. We are heading towards the village of Hexton which is actually in Hertfordshire. Hexton stands in well-wooded and hilly country adjacent to the Bedfordshire border. We pass the Raven Public House and lovely Olde Worlde Village Hall that doubled up as a country store. Behind huge stone walls lies Hexton Manor standing in extensive parkland. There are some very nice houses all along this particular toad I must say. 

Giant Puffball

The white football in the hedgerow is actually a Puffball Funghi. They can can grow to 20-50 centimeters wide and 20-50 cm high.You can eat them but I'm not risking it. The taste is described as described their taste as rich, earthy, and nutty. I shall leave it exactly where it is and move on towards the hills.  

Barton Hills Nature Reserve

The first sight that greets us on the Barton Hills are the Dartmoor Ponies. Normally as regular readers might know I give any horse like creature a very wide berth. These though are very docile and gentle and show very little interest  in us.I have to say the scenery is absolutely stunning with glorious views across Bedfordshire and a bit of Hertfordshire. It is said that these hills were the inspiration for Bunyan's 'Delectable Mountains.

Dartmoor Ponies

Down in the valley a pair of Kestrels are hunting their prey. The walking is very easy and as hoped the ground is well drained.

 Somewhere in the plantation over to our right is the site of 'Ravensburgh Castle'. It is said to be the biggest Iron Age hill fort in South East England. It is now heavily wooded and on private land.

Excavations during the 1960s showed that it was built about 400 BC and refortified around 50 BC.

Leaving the hills behind we make our way back towards Barton Le Clay. We pass the Church of St Nicholas, a listed building built in the 13th Century. It has been quite a short walk today compared to many we do. 

The total distance covered is 7.5 miles of very pleasant and enjoyable walking. 

 

Wheal Coates Mine St Agnes

 

In all the years that I've been coming down to Cornwall I have made a realisation. 'I've never been to a Tin Mine'. Perhaps I've never really wanted to until now? It has become a mission on this particular trip to track one down. Wheal Coates is probably the most photographed of all the Cornish tin mines. Maybe because it was used as part of the 'Nampara Estate' in the TV series Poldark. Whatever the reason it is the most dramatic of settings high on imposing cliffs above a sweeping beach. The wind is sweeping around too, blowing in some heavy showers interspersed with some weak sunshine. 

Yellow Gorse and Purple  Heather

Across the purple heather carpet and bright yellow flowers of the Gorse I get my first sighting. I'm going to savor the moment though, go for a walk along the coastline first . So prepare yourself for lots of photographs of the mine a little later. I'm just following the SW Coast Path in the direction of Chapel Porth. I know It's Chapel Porth because it s spelled out in the hillside. The National Trust describe Chapel Port as a wild but cosy beach rich in heritage and legend. The wild part I certainly won't argue with! I would have loved to have gone as far as St Agnes Beacon but I have left Mrs A in a Tea Shop and have limited time. The view from the top of St Agnes Beacon is said to be one of the most impressive in Cornwall. Hopefully next time, I'm starting to regret not going now...

 

Rather than follow the same path back I decide it would be a good idea to climb some craggy outcrops. Probably not my best idea but it kept things interesting. I also parted company with my cap too. I very rarely wear one so I was keen to reclaim it. I'm on my way to the mine and feeling very excited despite the inclement weather. The shaft engine house is certainly an iconic image. Wheal Coates tin mine opened in 1802 and worked until 1889 when the Tin price fell. At its peak Cornish mining employed upwards of 30,000 people. In the mid 19th century the industry began to decline, and in 1875 over 10,000 miners left Cornwall to find work overseas.

 

Pumping Engine House

Earliest records indicate a mine at the site since 1692. From 1700 to 1914, the metal mining industry played a vital role in transforming our way of life. It provided essential raw materials to feed the Industrial Revolution in Britain. At the height of its production, 140 people were employed at the site to mine a seam of tin just below sea level. The surviving buildings date from the 1870s when deep underground mining began at the site.There are three engine houses. Towanroath Pumping Engine House was used to pump water from the adjacent 600 ft Towanroath shaft. There are two Whim engine houses which were used to crush ore for processing. "Old Whim" was built in the mid 19th century, while "New Whim" was built in the late 19th century.The surviving structures were all listed as Grade II buildings on 31 October 1988. the site The site is now preserved and maintained by The National Trust. 

I've found it incredibly impressive and will certainly come back again.I imagine a sunset backdrop would be stunning. Maybe next time walk from here along the coast to Perranporth that would be a good walk.Talking of walks I've covered around 3.5 miles today which isn't bad for a quick stop off. I wander back to the Tea Shop to catch up with Mrs A and a much needed pot of Green Tea and a slice of cake!