The John Bunyan Trail (10) Pavenham, Clapham & Bromham

The latest leg of the John Bunyan Trails sees us in the small village of Pavenham close to the River Great Ouse. We will be walking in a clockwise direction towards Oakley, about 1.9 miles away. We pick up the 'JB' straight away and are soon in open countryside. The weather forecast is good, with no rain expected. Perfect conditions for a good walk hopefully.  

Archie enjoying a run

Didn't really expect to see Highland Cattle on the walk today. Known as Bò Ghàidhealach in Scottish Gaelic, and Heilan coo in Scots, these iconic and extremely photogenic creatures, with their distinctive horns and long, woolly, wavy coats are at home on the BCN(Bedfordshire, Cambridgeshire & Northamptonshire) Nature Reserve. There is quite a 'fold' of them too. Although a group of cattle is usually called a herd, a group of Highland cattle is known as a ‘fold.’ They seem very friendly though, until you get a bit too close and the horn suddenly becomes a dangerous weapon. The cutest one of all though is the young one hunkering down on the floor.

At last, we get our first view of the River Great Ouse. We have been following the edge of it for some time, but it has been hidden behind trees and bushes. The longest British Rivers called 'Ouse'. The River has several sources in Northamptonshire and flows through, Bedfordshire, Cambridgeshire and Norfolk  on its way to 'The Wash'. It is the fifth longest river in the UK.Although there is some disagreement as to the actual length. Authorities quote between 160 miles and 143 miles.  We cross the river at Stafford Bridge as we approach the village of Oakley, some four miles north west of the county town of Bedford.It has a history stretching back to pre- medieval times, when the population was less than 100. Today the number of people living within the Parish boundary has risen to 2,500. We walk down to the river where an 'Egyptian Goose' is swimming with it's flock of young. Egyptian geese were introduced to Britain from Africa, and are actually a member of the 'Shelduck' family so aren't true Geese.   

Egyptian Geese

From Oakley we pass into the village of Clapham, previously known as Clopeham, has been an agricultural village since before the Norman Conquest. The Saxon church tower was used to look out for raiders who came up the river as far as The Ford. Talking of the Ford, my colleague who planned the route for today joked that he hoped there was a bridge to take us across! It is located near Green Lane and The Swan Public House. A rock and concrete crossing point to Bromham. Some members of the public tell us that it it only really used by Tractors. In Summer it is just about passable when the depth is about 2 feet. It gains several feet in winter and becomes fast flowing making it dangerous. There is a bit of a gathering at the Ford. Families enjoying the good weather having a paddle, a dog or two splashing around. However there is a distinct absence of a bridge of any form.....Thankfully I am wearing shorts and can roll them up a bit further. I would also need to remove boots and socks of course. My colleague is not quite so fortunate and has to remove his long trousers. 

Dog Rescue

Feet Drying

 

Safely across to Bromham

It is the most uncomfortable of walks across the Ford. As well as being uneven underfoot, the rocks are very sharp, not to mention slippery. A couple of times I nearly go over, which really isn't an option. It really is hard work and a case of taking small steps and keeping focused. Meanwhile my companion is finding things even more difficult trying to balance  a dog as well. Half way across he changes tactics and makes for the edge which is overgrown with nettles and bushes. I keep on going forward and the water gradually gets more shallow. We both make it across in safety and set about getting dried off and on our way to Bromham. 

Calmness is quickly resumed, helped by some lovely scenery passing 'Bromham Lake Nature Reserve' and 'Bromham Park'. Nearby is Bromham Mill, which we won't see on this walk. Bromham (Bruneham in Domesday) is probably the enclosed meadow on which the broom or the dyers' weed grew. Nothing of that nature is found today though. In fact there seem to have been at least a doze variations on the name between 1086 (Domesday Book) and 1227 when the modern day spelling was first recorded. We continue on our way towards Stevington through some lovely open countryside. I believe there will be some 'Bunyan' related interest too.      

Stevington Windmill

Stevington Windmill is an impressive postmill built in the 18th century and is the only complete windmill left in Bedfordshire.The whole body of the mill that houses the machinery is mounted on a single central vertical post.The windmill operated commercially, mostly grinding cattle feed, until 1939. It was purchased and restored in 1951 by Bedfordshire County Council. We could have walked up to the Windmill, my Hernia was in full swing though and I didn't fancy any extra yards thank you very much.

Stevington Cross

Arriving into Stevington village and at the crossroads we find 'Stevington Cross'. A stone cross dating from the 14th Century. This would have been a preaching cross, and used before places had a church. Just the sort of place that a travelling Priest would use to hold a service. There is a legend that John Bunyan preached at Stevington cross; this has sprung from his words in Pilgrim's Progress: "He ran till he came to a Place somewhat ascending and upon that place stood a Cross, and a little below in the bottom, a Sepulchre". Furthermore it is thought to have inspired his writing about Christian's burden falling from his back, and rolling down into the holy sepulchre. Too much, perhaps, can be made of every part of the landscape of the book having a Bedfordshire counterpart and, certainly, there is no evidence of his ever having visited Stevington. His church in Bedford had links with the West End Baptist Meeting but that is all. We continue down 'Church Road in search of the 'Holy Well'. We actually thought that we might have missed it and checked with a couple of locals. They confirmed that the Well was to the rear of the church of St Mary the Virgin.

church of St Mary the Virgin.

 St Mary’s Church has been the village centre of worship since the 11th century when the original stone tower was built.  There was an earlier wooden watch-tower in the 9th century on the site.  Additions have, of course, been added over the centuries. overlooking the River Great Ouse, it is a beautiful spot for any visitor with its churchyard a wildlife haven of biodiversity.

The Holy Well Stevington

The spring issues from limestone rock underneath the church and the archway is incorporated into the wall of the church. It is debatable as to whether the well is considered holy because it flows from under the church, or whether the church was built on this site because of the well? This ancient spring was thought to heal eyes and was used by pilgrims for centuries.The 'Holy Well' may also have been Bunyan's 'sepulchre'?

We are also now on the 'Ouse Valley Way' a 150-mile (240 km) footpath starting from Syresham in Northamptonshire to 'The Wash' in Kings Lynn. A source-to-sea route on one of England's longest rivers. We are nearing the end on this particular walk though. We pass through a series of 'Kissing Gates' before arriving by the river once more. We are warned by a sign that the ground is very boggy. Given the lack f rain in May and in to June they were surprisingly boggy. This is as an area shown on the map as 'Osier Holts'. Where historically willows were planted and coppiced for their flexible twigs and used for basket making and other crafts. The marshy fringes of rivers, especially those which were often flooded  were the most common locations for osier beds.Once a significant industry in Great Britain until the early 20th Century, when industrial machinery and the import of cheaper materials made them unprofitable and commercially unviable.We follow the direction of the river through woodland back into Mill Lane back at Pavenham. It has been an interesting and a times exciting walk . A walk of 10.57 miles This will be the last 'proper walk' for a while as two lots of surgery loom large on the horizon. Hope to be back stronger than ever!

Mr Punch - The International Leicester

 

It is almost a year to the day when I first saw 'Mr Punch' at the 'Musician' in Leicester.The good news is that they are back again, this time at the 'International' in Leicester. They will be playing three shows over the 'Marillion Convention' weekend being held up the road at the 'De Montfort Hall'. Three very very different shows, the first being tonight where the 3rd studio album from 1985 is going to be played in full. As always we have arrived early and a handful of other fans are already starting to congregate outside. We don't have to wait long before the doors open thankfully. I make my way to a centre right of the stage position on the barriers. 

It is amazing to think that the 'Misplaced Childhood' album is now 40 years old! The third Marillion studio album. I can remember buying it on vinyl as though it was only yesterday.Singer Fish reportedly conceived the concept during a 10-hour acid trip. The album was a massive success right across Europe. Helped of course by the massive hit single 'Kayleigh'. It's a semi auto- bioraphical concept album, failed relationships and the loss of childhood innocence are key themes.It feels really busy , being at the front it is hard to tell though. The band take to the stage around 8:40 to the strains of Emerald Lies. 

The intro to 'Emerald Lies' fades and gives way to 'Cinderella Search' and the wonderful guitar solo beautifully handled by the ever smiling 'Marcella Arganase'. The magic of early Marillion has arrived in Leicester once more. The next part of the performance is what the band call 'Mega Pippone', which is open to translation? What it really means though is that 'Misplaced Childhood' is about to be unleashed. Vocalist 'Marco Vincini' is sounding even more Scottish than I remember. We have a change on keyboards tonight as 'Licia' has commitments elsewhere. I have to say the sound is excellent, as is the atmosphere. As you would expect the crowd is largely on the 50 plus side but they know how to enjoy themselves. 'Kayleigh' will no doubt be the highlight for many people. For me it is the keyboards that segway so perfectly from 'Bitter Suite' into 'Heart of Lothian' 'On the outskirts of nowhere. On the ring road to somewhere
On the verge of indecision I'll always take the roundabout way
Waiting on the rain .......Gets me every time.

Marcella Arganase

It has been a superb rendition of 'Misplaced Childhood'. How do you possibly follow that? With 'Incubus' that's how and another great guitar solo. We have two songs from the 1987 album 'Clutching at Straws' with 'Sugar Mice' and 'The Last Straw'. 

Sandwiched between though we have a very old song. The crowd all know it and it needs no announcement really, prepare the funeral pyres for our favourite 'Earth Rim Walker 'Grendel'. Marco has returned to the stage complete with the Grendel/Beowulf helmet. A very impressive version it is too with Marco fully immersed in character. 'Expose your throats to my righteous claws' as he claims Marcella as his next victim, it is all very dramatic and pure theatre , just as it should be.

 But wait, as the helmet is removed Marco tells us that there is a crack in it.... Reassuringly they will continue to play the song until it breaks. 

Screams are his music

My highlight of the whole evening follows, the unmistakable keyboard intro to 'Fugazi'. I'm gad that I've worn my 'Fugazi T shirt, something that didn't go unnoticed by the band I'm pleased to say. A song full of twists and turns, and high on energy and emotion. I think everyone in the house was singing along at the top of their voices.The show has reached a new level! Again I wonder how you follow that Marco disappears, returning in combat gear for 'Forgotten Sons. It all gets a bit much for one of the 'front row' who passes out. Quite rightly the show is stopped while the unfortunate gentleman recovers. Thankfully he is soon on his feet, and departs to the garden for some much needed fresh air. The show continues with Marco using his microphone stand as a would be rifle. It is all very atmospheric and true to the original version.The set continues as all the best freaks are here, please stop staring at me.

'Freaks' isn't a song that you get to hear very often, and sounds really fresh. Things are starting to reach a thrilling climax as the band finish with the classic encores of 'Garden Party' and 'Market Square Heroes'. Apart from a short break the band have been on stage for a good two and a half hours. The energy levels have never dropped and it has been a night to remember. They are joined on stage by 'Doctor Dyper' himself, Promoter in Chief Mr Danny Mayo for a bit of jamming. Although I'm not entirely convinced his guitar was even plugged in? Whatever , he looked the part and was having a great time.A lot of credit must go to him for organising all three shows. What better start could their be to the Marillion Convention weekend!

Thanks to Marcella for the set list, the early Marillion sound is in very good hands for sure. I believe they are returning to The International at Leicester in April 2026. Definitely not to be missed and something to look forward to.

Are you following me, are you following me? We most certainly are.

Many thanks to all the band for a night to remember!

 

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     

The John Bunyan Trail (9) Flitwick & Westoning

The latest leg of the 'Bunyan Trail' takes us to to the Town of 'Flitwick'. Equidistant between the much larger towns of Bedford and Luton. We get parked up in a residential area and cut through to the footpath close to 'Flitwick Wood'. Walking in an anti-clockwise direction we will finish in the 'Flit Valley'. This may have been the inspiration for Bunyan's 'The River of the water of life ' from 'The Pilgrims Progress'. That apart there are unlikely to be any other links on this particular walk. Don't let that put you off though! There will plenty of other points of interest to uncover.

We are quickly on the 'JB Trail' and immediately get our first sighting of a Chinese Water Deer. There is another one in the opposite field too. We are heading in the direction of 'Steppingley' on the 'Greensand Ridge'. Much of the surrounding land is part of either Beckerings Park, or the Woburn Estate. There are some lovely walks around here including 'Katherine's Walk' . Named after Katherine of Aragon, who was imprisoned on the Ampthill Estate during the annulment of her marriage to King Henry VIII in the early 16th Century. 

 

The Greensand Ridge is a long-distance walk of 40 miles (64 km) that crosses Bedfordshire, with brief sections in Cambridgeshire and Buckinghamshire. the name "Greensand" is associated with the green color of the rock due to glauconite, the rocks in Bedfordshire often don't show this green coloration. It is however though very sandy underfoot as the photo on the left shows. 

It's certainly a bucolic scene, as my walking companion likes to call it. In the field a young Fox watches cautiously from a safe distance, then disappears beyond the ridge. There are of course more Chinese Water Deer at regular intervals. A welcoming party of curious Cows arrive on the scene. Safely behind the fence, they can come as close as the like. We pass 'Priestley Farm' heading in the direction of Westoning. There is a lovely new wooden bridge that goes over the stream. In parts the water is a rusty colour, part of the rich Iron from the Greensand. The Rhododendrons are just coming into bloom along with the Digitalis plants.  

We are now close to Westoning Manor, although our path doesn't take us close enough to see it. Manor was built between 1842 and 1843 for the new Lord of the Manor, John William Coventry Campion. The part of Westoning we are in looks very affluent indeed. Some big houses, one has even put up wrought iron railings to block off the footpath outside their house. I'm not sure if this is even allowed. The lady of the house casts a dirty look in our direction before disappearing into the garage. We continue down the lane to the pretty looking Church of St Mary Magdalene. We call in to have a look at the Commonwealth War Graves that lie within.

Church of St Mary Magdalene, Westoning

One grave in particular catches my attention, and brings back harrowing memories of something that happened some 37 years ago. I remember watching the awful scenes live as the situation developed. It is something that has always stayed with me as a stark reminder of the shocking evil humans are capable of. Corporal David Howes and Corporal Derek Wood, were off duty and out driving in a car around Belfast, when they got lost and strayed into a funeral cortege for the IRA member. Members of the crowd surrounded the car and both men were pulled from the car, brutally beaten, stabbed and shot multiple times. They both died at the scene in what became known as the "Corporal killings"As I say a totally barbaric episode that should never have happened. A silent prayer is offered.

We continue towards 'Gablehayes'.  To our right on top of the hill the Water Tower at Pilloxhill can be seen .   

Nicely marked footpaths

Beautiful fields of green

We are heading in the direction of Flitwick Moor part of the largest natural wetland in Bedfordshire. It is a nationally important site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI).Peat was extracted on this site for hundreds of years. It was also a place where mineral-rich water was taken from and bottled for sale as a tonic.Raised wooden decking takes us between 'The Moor' and 'The Folly'. They aren't  really necessary today given all the weeks without rain. Even so, there is more than a hint of the Louisiana swamps about the place.

Flitwick Moor Boardwalk

All that remains is to navigate ourselves through the side streets of Flitwick back to our starting point. There hasn't really been that many places of interest, but enough to keep our interest. It has been a perfect day for walking and another leg of the walk ticked off. In total a fraction over 10 miles covered.