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A perfect early Spring day
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Back in 'Bunyan Country' , or so the road sign tells us as we cross in to Bedfordshire. What a lovely day it is too. Probably the best one of the year so far. Driving in we passed the giant Grade II listed Airship Hangars at Cardington. They will provide the backdrop to much of the walk today. More of those later when we are likely to get much nearer. The starting point today is 'Cotton End', a small village next to the A600. The first part refers to cotes or cottages. The name thus means Cottages End. We cut trough the houses into open countryside close to the Bird of Prey Centre at 'Herring's Green'. Close by is a small wooded area 'Shocott Spring' which was created in 2005. A startled 'Chinese Water Deer' bolts out of the undergrowth giving us a bit of a shock!
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We pick up the Bunyan Trail close to Cotton End Farm. First impressions aren't great as we pass an abandoned vehicle in the hedge. Thankfully things do improve though as we follow the linear track towards Elstow. In the wide expanse of fields we spot at least seven more Chines Water Deer. They seem quite content to do their thing under the public gaze , albeit at a safe distance. I remember reading somewhere that there a re now more Chinese Water Deer in the UK than China. Lovely to feel the warm sunshine in this T shirt weather. The sound of the Skylark is ever present. I see my first Butterfly of the year , a bright yellow 'Brimstone', what could be better?
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The 'Bunyan Trail'
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The very pleasant walk continues past various water ditches that have been dug out. A passing Dog Walker tells me that It is very common to see the Deer having a drink in these. We pass through an area called 'Medbury Cottages' next to Medbury Farm.We are now approaching Elstow, birthplace of Bunyan in 1628. We are about 2 miles south of Bedford Town Centre. We take a slight detour to the village Green where the Moot Hall Can be found. The timber framed building would have served as the Market Hall. The moot hall was one of the venues at which Bunyan would have developed his nonconformist views. On the Green are the last remains of what would have been the Market Cross.
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The Moot Hall Elstow
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Bunyan would have attended Elstow Abbey Church which is just over from The Green. It is unusual as it has a detached 'Bell Tower'. The tower is thought to have been the inspiration for the castle of
Beelzebub from which Bunyan portrayed arrows being shot at pilgrims
entering the gate in his ‘Pilgrims Progress’.There are six bells. The fifth is commonly called the Bunyan Bell, because it is believed that Bunyan rang it. The Abbey was originally a Benedictine Nun monastery dating to 1075,closing in 1539.
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| Elstow Abbey Church |
Inside the Church are a couple of stained glass windows dedicated to John Bunyan. Sadly we couldn't get in to have a look. One of the Church doors may well have been the the thinking behind the 'Wicket Gate' in the Pilgrims Progress'.
It is thought that Elstow is the inspiration for 'The City of Destruction' in the 'Pilgrims Progress'. Walking down the tranquil High St today doesn't really give that feeling of impending doom. Somewhere along the line we seem to have missed the Blue Plaque marking the birthplace. We follow the brook as we move away from the village. Sadly it seems to be the place where shopping trolleys come to die, along with various other rubbish. It's a real shame that people have decided to use this stretch as a dumping ground. 'Keep to the path! Or risk sinking in to the Slough of Despond'. We cross the busy A21 passing 'College Farm'.
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A 600 yard detour is made, it would have been rude not too wouldn't it. We are at 'Bunyan's Farm. where the great man was born. The stone was erected during the Festival Of Britain in 1951. Our planned route hits upon a problem... The housing estate we need to cut through has a large locked electric gate. We take a detour on the cycle way and carefully pick our way through the houses. Leaving the large estate the unmistakable sight of the Cardington Hangars. Imagine waking up, opening the curtains and seeing those monsters.
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Cardington Hangars
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Before becoming RAF Cardington the site was in private hands. A time when Airships ruled the roost. Sort Brothers bought the land and constructed a 700-foot-long (210 m) hangar to build two Airships, the R31and R32.The hangar was extended between October 1924 and March 1926. Its roof was raised by 35 feet and its length increased to 812 feet. This in preparation for the R101 project. A government programme to develop civil airships capable of service on long-distance routes across the empire.Sadly the R101crashed on It's maiden voyage, pretty much ending Airship development. These days Hangar 1 is used as a film studio. Hangar 2 seems to be used for explosives testing.
It has been a great walk , some really interesting sights. A total distance of 9.5 miles.
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