The John Bunyan Trail (1) Barton Le Clay & Hexton

Exciting times! The start of a new long distance path 'The John Bunyan Trail'. A 124 km/77 mile walk dedicated to the Puritan Evangelist and author of the book 'Pilgrim's Progress' that he wrote in prison in 1678. As always we will be doing the walk in circular routes. and therefore a lot longer than the 77 miles. The routes will pass through a number of attractive villages and scenic countryside, taking in many places of historic interest connected with Bunyan. He travelled the county preaching, that in Charles II time was illegal and he was arrested and jailed for 12 years. He remains a figure of considerable historical and religious and literary importance particularly in Bedford.I'm hoping to learn at lot more about this important historical figure as the walk progresses. There are links with the Greensand Ridge Walk, Icknield Way Path and North Bedfordshire Heritage Trail. 

 

Starting point today is the village of Barton Le Clay. We are 36 miles north of London, between Bedford and Luton. Given all the recent torrential rain and flooding the route has been carefully chosen. Low lying areas around the River Ouse have been avoided at all costs. Instead we are in the vicinity of a chalk download on the edge of the Chiltern Hills. We set off in a clockwise direction with the Barton Hills Nature Reserve away to our right.We will be circling around to the hills as we progress through the walk. The sun is shining brightly behind the hills, making photography a bit hazy. Conditions underfoot are very boggy, hopefully this is as bad as it will get?

To our left is flat open countryside , the type I would have expected from Bedfordshire. We are heading towards the village of Hexton which is actually in Hertfordshire. Hexton stands in well-wooded and hilly country adjacent to the Bedfordshire border. We pass the Raven Public House and lovely Olde Worlde Village Hall that doubled up as a country store. Behind huge stone walls lies Hexton Manor standing in extensive parkland. There are some very nice houses all along this particular toad I must say. 

Giant Puffball

The white football in the hedgerow is actually a Puffball Funghi. They can can grow to 20-50 centimeters wide and 20-50 cm high.You can eat them but I'm not risking it. The taste is described as described their taste as rich, earthy, and nutty. I shall leave it exactly where it is and move on towards the hills.  

Barton Hills Nature Reserve

The first sight that greets us on the Barton Hills are the Dartmoor Ponies. Normally as regular readers might know I give any horse like creature a very wide berth. These though are very docile and gentle and show very little interest  in us.I have to say the scenery is absolutely stunning with glorious views across Bedfordshire and a bit of Hertfordshire. 

Dartmoor Ponies

Down in the valley a pair of Kestrels are hunting their prey. The walking is very easy and as hoped the ground is well drained.

 Somewhere in the plantation over to our right is the site of 'Ravensburgh Castle'. It is said to be the biggest Iron Age hill fort in South East England. It is now heavily wooded and on private land.

Excavations during the 1960s showed that it was built about 400 BC and refortified around 50 BC.

Leaving the hills behind we make our way back towards Barton Le Clay. We pass the Church of St Nicholas, a listed building built in the 13th Century. It has been quite a short walk today compared to many we do. 

The total distance covered is 7.5 miles of very pleasant and enjoyable walking. 

 

Wheal Coates Mine St Agnes

 

In all the years that I've been coming down to Cornwall I have made a realisation. 'I've never been to a Tin Mine'. Perhaps I've never really wanted to until now? It has become a mission on this particular trip to track one down. Wheal Coates is probably the most photographed of all the Cornish tin mines. Maybe because it was used as part of the 'Nampara Estate' in the TV series Poldark. Whatever the reason it is the most dramatic of settings high on imposing cliffs above a sweeping beach. The wind is sweeping around too, blowing in some heavy showers interspersed with some weak sunshine. 

Yellow Gorse and Purple  Heather

Across the purple heather carpet and bright yellow flowers of the Gorse I get my first sighting. I'm going to savor the moment though, go for a walk along the coastline first . So prepare yourself for lots of photographs of the mine a little later. I'm just following the SW Coast Path in the direction of Chapel Porth. I know It's Chapel Porth because it s spelled out in the hillside. The National Trust describe Chapel Port as a wild but cosy beach rich in heritage and legend. The wild part I certainly won't argue with! I would have loved to have gone as far as St Agnes Beacon but I have left Mrs A in a Tea Shop and have limited time. The view from the top of St Agnes Beacon is said to be one of the most impressive in Cornwall. Hopefully next time, I'm starting to regret not going now...

 

Rather than follow the same path back I decide it would be a good idea to climb some craggy outcrops. Probably not my best idea but it kept things interesting. I also parted company with my cap too. I very rarely wear one so I was keen to reclaim it. I'm on my way to the mine and feeling very excited despite the inclement weather. The shaft engine house is certainly an iconic image. Wheal Coates tin mine opened in 1802 and worked until 1889 when the Tin price fell. At its peak Cornish mining employed upwards of 30,000 people. In the mid 19th century the industry began to decline, and in 1875 over 10,000 miners left Cornwall to find work overseas.

 

Pumping Engine House

Earliest records indicate a mine at the site since 1692. From 1700 to 1914, the metal mining industry played a vital role in transforming our way of life. It provided essential raw materials to feed the Industrial Revolution in Britain. At the height of its production, 140 people were employed at the site to mine a seam of tin just below sea level. The surviving buildings date from the 1870s when deep underground mining began at the site.There are three engine houses. Towanroath Pumping Engine House was used to pump water from the adjacent 600 ft Towanroath shaft. There are two Whim engine houses which were used to crush ore for processing. "Old Whim" was built in the mid 19th century, while "New Whim" was built in the late 19th century.The surviving structures were all listed as Grade II buildings on 31 October 1988. the site The site is now preserved and maintained by The National Trust. 

I've found it incredibly impressive and will certainly come back again.I imagine a sunset backdrop would be stunning. Maybe next time walk from here along the coast to Perranporth that would be a good walk.Talking of walks I've covered around 3.5 miles today which isn't bad for a quick stop off. I wander back to the Tea Shop to catch up with Mrs A and a much needed pot of Green Tea and a slice of cake!

 

Trebah Garden Cornwall

Falmouth Harbour

We have moved from the north coast of Cornwall to the south coast.Just as we arrive so do the heavy showers. At least it gave me the chance to get a picture of the Rainbow over the harbour. It’s known for its deep natural harbour on the Fal Estuary, and beaches like Swanpool and Gyllyngvase. There is very much a strong maritime history and connection to the sea.Falmouth has the world’s third largest natural deep-water harbour and is the country’s first and last port. We have a wander around the interesting town and a pot of tea. The rain comes back again and we move off to look for a garden.   

There are a couple of excellent gardens close to Falmouth. We have opted for Trebah, a 26-acre sub-tropical garden situated above the Helford River. Originally a wooded valley, it has a rich and fascinating past. Planting began in 1838 and lasted over four decades. Ownership has passed through a number of families including 'The Healeys' of  Austin Healey car fame. We have a wander around the attached Garden Centre as we wait for the rain to stop.Once it eases we set out, armed with our fold up map of the garden layout.

It is approximately 650 metres from the top of the garden down to the beach. We follow the 'Camelia Walk' down through the Beach Path that runs through the centre. In total there are 4 miles of paths. A giant plantation of gunnera and clumps of huge bamboos give this garden a unique and exotic feel.Mediterranean and southern hemisphere plants intermingle with groves of huge Australian tree ferns and palms. There is still plenty to see, despite it being the end of Summer and early Autumn. As we continue our downhill walk the area in our right is called 'Rhododendron Valley' for good reason.

'Hydrangea Valley'

We then move in to Hydrangea Valley. The predominant colour of the Hydrangeas is blue of course. There is every shade across the spectrum from white, pink and purple. The soil is very acidic so will typically generate the blue foliage.Most common are 'Mop-head' Hydrangea macrophylla and the vibrant 'Oxford and Cambridge' Using Ericacious compost can also help to keep the lovely blue colour.Originally planted in the 1950s and the cut blooms were sent to Covent Garden flower market to raise income for the garden. The plants are now over 50 years old but continue to bloom beautifully year upon year. There is a lovely bridge called the 'Mallard Bridge' at the end of the valley. This overlooks the 'Mallard Pond' where the two acres of Hydrangeas are mirrored in the ripples of the water. Behind the pond is Trebah Beach (Polgwidden Cove). There doesn't seem to be an obvious way of getting through to the beach unfortunately.

 It isn't exactly beach weather at the moment as the rain starts again.The beach has a rich history. During World War Two, it was concreted and the boathouse and rocks were dynamited to allow access for tanks. The garden was used as an ammunition store, and trenches dug in the lower part of the garden.

On 1 June 1944, a regiment of 7,500 men of the 29th US Infantry Division embarked from Trebah Beach in ten 150-foot flat-bottomed LST landing craft. For five days they battled through treacherous seas to the Isle of Wight, and then on to the D-Day assault landing on Omaha Beach in Normandy, where they suffered grievous casualties.A memorial at the bottom of the garden commemorates the courage of these brave young American soldiers.

Loch Ness Monster ?

Flowing water

We make our way back up the garden following the 'Davidia Walk'. A trail of water flows all the way down from a natural spring at the top. It flows through a series of pools surrounded by lush planting and glossy green leaves from dozens of Arum Lilies. The highlight of the water garden trail would have to be the Koi Pool. The trickle of the water makes for a highly relaxing and tranquil space. The Koi Pool was created in the 1980’s with a statuesque backdrop of huge granite boulders now concealed by the foliage of Rubus tricolor (the thornless Chinese Bramble).  The crystal clear pool is home to around a dozen 10 -15 yr old Koi Carp. In perfect conditions, these highly coloured fish can grow up to a metre long. Their usual life span is 25 – 35 years. As well as the Koi there are also a couple of Sturgeon. One of which is massive, probably around 3 ft in length I would say. 

It has been a lovely relaxing wander around the garden. Of course the weather could have been better but it hasn't spoiled the visit. It truly is a sub tropical paradise. We adjourn to the Cafe for a herbal tea and a pastry. It seems the local Robin very much enjoys a pastry too. It suspect he doesn't have the same issues with cholesterol that I do. A battle that hasn't been improved by numerous Cornish Pasties on this trip..He has certainly done this before and is very confident So confident in fact that he is happy to take food from the hand.   

A lovely visit and somewhere to return to again, probably in the Springtime to see a different picture.