Stowe Landscape Gardens & Dadford Walk

 

It is always a great pleasure to visit Stowe Landscape Gardens. I've blogged about it previously over the years so no apologies for another one. Today will be a bit different though! Rather than the classic landscaped gardens walk something a little different.There are some 700 acres of surrounding parkland with lots of footpaths and Bridleways to explore. Its a misty, murky start to the day, a promise of the sun breaking through gives some encouragement. Starting point is the striking 'Corinthian Arch'. Originally built as the grandiose entrance to Stowe to make a lasting impression on visitors. In the far distance it is just possible to make out Stowe House. One of England's grandest Ducal Palaces.

The trees are magnificent, no sign as yet of any Autumnal colours taking effect. Upper Copper Bottom Lake is on our right hand side. The path winds slightly to the right as we pass through the twin 'Boycott Pavillions'. Nothing to do with  'Sir Geoffrey' as far as I am aware? 'West Boycott Pavillion' was once actually home to the legendary Garden Designer ' Lancelot 'Capability' Brown' himself. Over to the left is the classical Oxford water and Bridge. We continue on the circular walk, which will take us towards the front of Stowe House. We turn off though to our left before reaching that point. I love the fact that there are so many unusual monuments and follies to be seen around the parkland.

'Wolfe's Obelisk comes into view on our right. Built in 1754  and dedicated to General Wolf after his battles in Quebec in 1761. We are heading to the nearby hamlet of Dadford. We pass the lake and the Equestrian Centre before picking up the footpath we need. In the distance there is the sound of roaring car engines from the nearby Silverstone Circuit. Somewhere I walked earlier in the year. There really isn't too much to report on this stretch of the walk. Although it has warmed up! Blue skies have replaced the grey and the sun is close to putting in an appearance. We loop back round towards the Gardens. The area and nearby building is called 'Muse of Pastoral Poetry', sounds very romantic doesn't it. We make our way back into the gardens close to 'Lord Cobham's Pillar. 

 

The fantastic Gothic Temple

Lady Cobham's memorial to her husband is the tallest of Stowe's monuments. (104ft). The original statue was destroyed in 1957 by lightning. My favourite though has always been the 'Gothic Temple', so atmospheric whatever the weather. We drop down to 'The Palladian Bridge' over 'Octagon Lake'. The view is stunning in all directions. It was originally built to allow carriages to cross to the house. A covered bridge with three arches,the second of three nearly identical bridges built in English gardens between 1737 and 1755. Amazing to thing that there are only  Palladian Bridges left in the world.  

Temple Of British Worthies

Built around 1735 The temple of British Worthies is Cobham's tribute to the best of British. Shakespeare, Sir Isaac Newton, John Milton, King Alfred, Sir Walter Raleigh, Sir Francis Drake. are all here along with many others. Not least 'Signor Fido' , his pet dog. Elizabeth I is the only female honoured.Might just raise an eyebrow in these times of equality? Across the water lies 'Elysian Fields'. The final resting place of the souls of the heroic and the virtuous in Greek mythology. It was used by Lord Cobham to underline his political opposition to Walpole and his support for Frederick, the then Prince of Wales.

Shell Bridge

Captain Grenville' Column, Erected originally in the Grecian Valley in about 1748 in honour of Captain Thomas Grenville, Lord Cobham's nephew, who was killed in action. The original statue was of Hercules but this was removed when the column was moved to the Elysian Fields in the 1750's. It is a rostral column (so called because of the ships’ prows, or rostra, that protrude from its shaft), 

The house has been restored and maintained as one of the finest country houses in the UK. Looking south across the sports pitches it is just possible to make out The Corinthian Arch from where we started earlier.In 1922, in the face of demolition, Stowe School saved the building from certain destruction. Unlike the loss and decline of many English country houses, Stowe House found a new and revived use for the twentieth and twenty-first centuries as a school for boys and girls.

 

Dido's Cave

Renamed "The Marchioness of
Buckingham's Seat".

Passing 'The Rotunda' designed as a temple to Venus.The building houses a gold statue of Venus which opens up to eight different views.We make our way down to 'Eleven Acre Lake'. The 750 acres have 40 listed temples and monuments, based around two central lakes.At the far end is a rustic looking waterfall, more of that later. For now I'm just happy to take in the beauty and tranquility of the setting. Every time I visit I always seem to miss monuments of interest. Today it is the the turn of the 'Temple of Venus'. amongst several others. There is always the next time.

Cascade & Ruins

One of the best views is through the 'Eyecatcher' between the lakes. We move on to 'Octagon Lake' with sweeping views back up to Stowe House and the Gothic Temple. We have just wandered today, in a very 'Mindfulness' type of way. However there are a number of themed paths you can embark on 'The Classics' : Vice, Virtue and Liberty this gives some context to the structures you will encounter on your way. Or 'The Moderns : The Path of the Brave. The Path of Contentment. as well as the Royal Route, Classic and Extended. Something for everyone I should say.   

 

We exit via the 'New Inn.' A number of buildings were sensitively restored including the listed Inn and adjacent outbuildings. As well as stables, coach house, kitchen and brew house which were incorporated into a new visitor centre.The restored buildings retain many of the existing features and the new buildings replicate the original detail and construction methods thereby breathing new life into what was a partly dilapidated structure. Another fantastic visit, a place of magnificence, somewhere to come back to, time and time again.  

The Shakespeare's Avon Way - Twyning & River Avon & Severn Confluence (23)

Home for the night was close to the 'Severn Ham'. an island between the Rivers Severn and the two arms of the Avon. An area of outstanding beauty and wildlife. One of the finest Commons in the country they say.

Traditionally managed for centuries it is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and a conservation area. In the distance the Romanesque tower of Tewkesbury Abbey looms large. Sadly it has not been a night of restful sleep. Despite the addition this time of a 'luxury pillow,' sleep is at a premium. Lots of tossing and turning, a desperate search for comfort.

Weir at 'Upper Lode'

The nearby weir is picturesque by day, noisy by night. Just as I'm nodding off, the clock in the Abbey strikes midnight. It continues to provide unwanted updates throughout the night. The early morning alarm call is in the form of a dog. Who takes a dog for a walk at 5:30 AM on a Sunday morning? The tent dismantled and a quick tidy up, nobody would be any the wiser that we had even been there.

It is still early morning, perfect for a wander into Tewkesbury and the Abbey. A building with over 900 years history. Work began on what is now the present building in 1121. 

A former Benedictine monastery, after the dissolution of the monasteries, it became the parish church for the town.  Tewkesbury of course played a key role in the 'War of the Roses' in 1471. The Yorkist King Edward IV's victory over his Lancastrian opponents.  

Today it is world renowned for being one of the UK's greatest examples of medieval architecture.    

A short drive takes us to the starting point for the walk today at 'Hill End' near to the village of Twyning. The village had been a crossing point on the River Avon since medieval times. The ferry service was an entitlement given to the riverside Innkeeper. There is going to be a lot of riverside walking today for sure. Another large stretch of The Shakespeare's Avon way lies ahead of us. It's all pretty easy walking and very pleasant with the water on our left as we walk in a clockwise direction.

Children's Regatta at the Marina

We pass an area of the river known as 'Chad Well. Where there is indeed a well.All fenced off of course to prevent someone disappearing into the Avon. St Chad's Well is named after the 7th century missionary St. Chad of Mercia, who is attached to a great number of healing wells.We continue along the side of the river passing Mythe Farm on our right. There are two confluences of the River Avon and the River Severn. The first we camped right beside the previous night. We have now reached the smaller branch at 'Lower Lode'.

We make the turn onto the River Severn. The Mythe Bridge can be seen in the distance carrying the A438 over the Severn. It is a cast-iron Arch Bridge spanning 170 feet (52 m) and 24 feet (7.3 m) wide, designed by Thomas Telford. completed in April 1826. It is a Grade II listed structure. The total cost of the bridge including masonry approaches was £14,500.

The splendid looking Water Works  with it's red brickwork is situated on the east bank. It provides drinking water to a population of some 400,000 people. In July 2007 the site was partially inundated with flood water from the River Severn. We actually walk right through it on a fenced path. Getting out again wasn't quite so straightforward though. 

Making our way in land the walking gets more difficult. The paths are overgrown and uneven in places. Once again I question wearing shorts with all the nettles and thistles. Things do improve eventually. We have passed the site of 'King John's Castle'. The castle today is set in a private location, back from the lane behind tall electric gates.Nothing to be seen sadly. 

Things take a turn for the worse though... My existing Hernia problem flares up, and is quite painful. I have a few doubts about even finishing the walk. That would be a let down to falter at the final hurdle. A silent prayer and a couple of painkillers does the trick as the discomfort eases. 

Reaching 'Puckrup' we have a Golf Course to negotiate. Which it turns out is far from straightforward. Public footpaths through golf courses are quite dangerous in my experience. The course at 'Puckrup Hall Hotel' is busy as befits a Summer Sunday afternoon. Balls flying around in all directions. With some relief we exit the course and cross the A38 towards Church End Twyning.We are on the last stretch now heading towards 'Nut Orchard. The Church of St Mary Magdalene is a traditional Grade 1 listed Norman building. The village is divided into two main parts, the older "Church End", and 'Twyning Green'.   

We are spoiled for choice with several footpaths that will take us close to our starting point. The path that we take is a good one though as we pass through an orchard. The trees are laden with fruit just ripe and ready for picking. Best of all were the Damsons, perfect for some home made Damson Gin or Vodka. Something to warm you up on a cold winters night. We meet the owners of the orchard as we come out the other end. The husband is an avid long distance walker himself. They are still working their way through a supply of Damson Jam from last year apparently.

Well that it folks, as far as The Shakespeare' Avon Way is concerned. It has felt a bit strange doing back to back walks. Along with the lack of decent sleep, today has been something of a struggle. But we got there in the end, which is what it is all about really. 

A total of  9.5 miles walked today.

Other walk stats 

Started 4'12'20 

Ended 31'8'24   

23 circular walks and a total of 225.75 miles walked!

The Shakespeare's Avon Way - Defford & Strensham (22)

 

The last two legs of The Shakespeare's Avon Way lie ahead of us. We are completing them on consecutive days. With a night of 'wild camping' under the stars in between the walks. 

The first walk is starting from the village of Defford in Worcestershire.To be more precise we outside of the Church of St James. The church is around 400 years old with Norman origins, and underwent a major restoration in the 19th century.  A man appears to wind up the church clock. Something of a mystery really. The clock face doesn't ever move, stuck on one time. However the clock chime is always accurate to within 5 seconds at any time. We are going to be walking in a clockwise direction today. Crossing Eckington Bridge once again, picking up 'The Shakespeare's Avon Way' from where we left it last time. We drop down on to the riverside footpath for what will be one of the longest river stretches of the entire walk so far. 

St James Church Defford

The conditions are very good for walking. A bit overcast but at least it is dry and fairly warm. We continue following the River Avon , always in the shadow of the Bredon Hills.  

We arrive at a Lock,  safely negotiating the climb over the water to rejoin the footpath.This takes us along to a weir which again we have to cross. The 'Strensham weir' footpath links the villages of Strensham and Eckington.There are a few Paddle Boarders and Canoeists on the water. There is also a lot of debris stacked on the banks of the river. A legacy of the recent flooding.  

Strensham Weir

We continue onwards moving inland away from the river. We are still on The Shakespeares Avon way though. Lots of fields of crops, in particular 'French Beans'. Vert tempting to pick a few to take home. I settle for just eating a couple raw, just to check the quality of course. Plenty of lovely ripe Blackberries too. Seems to have been an excellent year for them as well as other soft fruit. The path continues along the side of the M5 motorway. We eventually pass underneath the motorway and head towards Showborough House. A former old people’s home that has been turned into a one-and-a-half acres art and sculpture garden.  

'Leisure Poem'

The gardens are closed at the moment. A large white rabbit looks out over the fence. It reminds me of the film 'Donnie Darko'. An extract from the 1911 poem 'Leisure' is quoted on a board. “What is this life if, full of care, We have no time to stand and stare.". Written by the Welsh poet William Henry Davies. An observation that many of life's simple riches are overlooked due to the pace of modern life.

Close by is possibly the largest 'Bug Hotel' that I have ever seen! 'The King Charles Bug Hotel' .Open to residents all year round. We continue to wards Upper Strensham, crossing over the M50. We can see the Motorway service Station 'Strensham' in the distance. We then pass over the M5 bridge as we move towards 'Lower Strensham. I always find it a strange  and slightly uncomfortable looking down on the fast moving vehicles below. We move away from the noise of the motorway too the peace of the Church of St John the Baptist. In the churchyard is the Grade II listed base of a medieval cross. The door was locked , but a sign directed us to the Old Rectory, beside the church, where a key hung conveniently on a nail set in the wall. 

 

St John The Baptist Church Strensham

 Leaving the rear of the church proves something of a challenge. Firstly it is the field of cows. They showed some interest but generally were well behaved. The Sheep however were full of bravado. Thankfully they lacked the minerals for that final push to attack. We are well on the way now to our starting point at Defford. We are close to the small village of 'Woodmancote'. Only last week a man died when the small plane he was pilot of crashed nearby. We walk right past the Airfield at Defford Croft Farm where it would have taken off from.

No aircraft activity today though, or any sign of the crash. I would imagine there will have to be an inquiry and investigation. Very sad for all concerned, my condolences to the family of the man. The sight of the church comes into view as we walk uphill to Defford. One more walk to go and that will be tomorrow. Now we need to find somewhere to camp and pitch our tents.

 A total distance today of 12 miles exactly.