Sunday 25 August 2024

The Farne Islands Boat Trip and Bamburgh Castle

A good breakfast has set us up nicely for a day by the sea.We have driven up the coast to the fishing village of 'Seahouses' The perfect place for a boat trip to the Farne Islands. From the harbour we can see the Farne Islands in the distance. To our left we can see the imposing sight of Bamburgh Castle. Unfortunately we are a bit late to see the famous 'Puffins' that breed on the islands in their thousands. In fact as many as 70,000. April until July is the best time to see them. There is a chance we might see the odd one on the water though. We should see plenty of other bird-life as well as Grey Seals. We have opted not to get off the boat (an extra £13 National Trust landing fee). Instead we shall take the 1.5 hour cruise around the islands. 



There are between 15 and 20 islands depending on the level of the tide. They lie 2-3 miles off the Northumberland coast. They are separated by 'Staple Sound' as an 'Inner' and 'Outer' Group.  Inner Farne is the largest and most historic island, gives its name to the whole group.     

The conditions are good and no signs of any sea sickness. Through the binoculars I've spotted, Razorbills, Shags, Guillemots and the spectacular diving Gannets. The island cliff faces have a white appearance from a covering of bird droppings.  


Longstone Lighthouse is an active 19th century lighthouse on Longstone Rock in the outer group. It gained fame in 1938 following the wreck of ' Paddle Steamer 'Forfarshire'. Grace Darling aged 22 and her Lighthouse Keeper father initiated a rescue of nine people in a strong gale and thick fog, the vessel having run aground on Harcar Rock. The story of the rescue made headline news and made Grace Darling a heroine who has gone down in British folklore.

We are starting to see a few Grey Seals, also known as Atlantic Grey Seals. basking on the rocks. In the Autumn around 3,000 pups are born. They were prized by the Monks in the 12th Century for their Oil and as a food. There is one huge Seal close to us with their tail in the air. My phone camera doesn't do it justice at all.. With the tide coming in his comfortable perch is going to be very short-lived.   

As well as all the wildlife, there is a strong link with Celtic Christianity and St Cuthbert who lived here in the 7th Century. The islands are first recorded in 651, when they became home to Saint Aiden. Remains still exist of the seventh-century anchorite cell used by Saint Aidan and Saint Cuthbert, as do the remains of a 14th-century chapel associated with the cell. Known as St Cuthbert's Chapel.

The islands have no permanent population, but National Trust Rangers live on the islands for nine months of the year, maintaining the site and monitoring wildlife. 

Hundreds of ships have been wrecked on the Farnes over the years, providing plenty for wreck divers to explore.

All too soon we are heading back towards the harbour. It has been a really enjoyable boat trip and good value at £20. Looking forward to a nice pint now in the Ship Inn Beer Garden overlooking the sea.  


Suitably refreshed we set off through the sand dunes towards Bamburgh. It is around a 3 mile walk and much better than moving the car.     

It's very pleasant walking conditions although quite a strong breeze. The tide is still high so we weave between the dunes and the beach. The last stretch towards Bamburgh we complete on the road. Plenty of cars filling the car parks opposite the castle. At least we don't have to worry about that. We get our first close up view of Bamburgh Castle, an impressive one it is too!

Standing guard above the spectacular Northumberland coastline for over 1,600 years. Spanning nine acres of land on its rocky plateau site was originally the location of a Celtic Brittonic fort known as Din Guarie. First built by the Normans it has been added to over the centuries.

  

Bamburgh was The first castle in England to fall to canon fire as the Wars of Roses drew to a close.Bought by the First Lord Armstrong in 1894 it is still owned by the Armstrong family who play an active part in its operation and maintenance.  We walk right up to the entrance but decide not to go inside today. The Vikings continually laid siege to the castle. In 993 AD it was finally ransacked. During the Second World War, pillboxes were established in the sand dunes to protect the castle and surrounding area from German invasion Bamburgh Castle is one of the largest inhabited castles in the country. Still in the ownership of the Armstrong family.  

Bamburgh Castle from the beach
 

We drop back down through the sand dunes to the beach. Totally unspoilt there are miles of lovely white sand and very few people. Just as we settle down for a bit of a rest the sun disappears and the wind gets up. We are getting well and truly sandblasted. We soon give up and continue a slow walk back to Seahouses. Now the tide has retreated there are plenty of rock pools to explore.It must rate as one of the best British beaches. It has been a great walk and we are really looking forward to Fish and Chips back at Seahouses!




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