Lindisfarne (Holy Island) Visit

A visit to Lindisfarne, also called Holy Island needs a bit of of planning. The island of Lindisfarne is located along the northeast coast of England, close to the border with Scotland. The nearest point to the mainland is about 0.8 miles (1.3 kilometres). It is accessible at low tide by a causeway. Today, the 17th August the causeway is safe to cross between 03:35 until 12:05. Coming back the times are 16:35 until 00:15 (Sun). I was quite surprised at the difference from the day before (02:00 until 11:10 and 15:00 until 23:25). I suspect a complicated explanation so will leave that piece of investigation for another day. Plenty of other interesting things to write about to keep me busy. Safely on the island we follow the trail of cars to the 'pay and display' field. They aren't daft either when it comes to charging. You pay by the hour up to the first 4 hours.It then immediately reverts to an all day charge. What you might call a captive audience. Unless you fancy a swim of course!

The Harbour

Unsure of our bearings we follow the tourist trail into the centre of Lindisfarne. If in doubt get a map, which is what I did. I spent most of the day trying to fold it back to its original state at various intervals. A plan is hatched to follow thee 3 mile nature trail , taking in some of the key sites along the way. In the distance on a rocky plateau standing proudly is Lindisfarne Castle. From around 1570 onwards, garrisons of soldiers were placed here to man weapons and keep their eyes on the horizon for potential trouble. To our right is the harbour , Seals are bobbing up and down merrily. In the far distance you can see the remains of the priory. Somewhere we shall return to later.

Lime Kilns

The next point of interest are the old Lime Kilns at Castle Point. They were used to burn Limestone from the north of the island. Built in 1860 they were abandoned by 1900.  The lime was used for spreading on the fields or making Lime mortar. Much of which was exported to Scotland by boat  from jetties below the castle. 

 

View from the Rocky Shore

Looking out to sea across the Rocky Shore you can see both The Farne Islands and Bamburgh Castle in the distance. On the shoreline is the occasional wading bird, such as a Knot or Curlew. We cut back inland to have a look at the 'Gertrude Jekyll' Garden. As one of the top gardeners at that time she was invited to create a small walled garden just north of the castle in 1911. From here there is a nice vie of the castle which I have posted below. We return to the coastal path heading up towards 'The Lough' and the birdwatching hide. It is believed the small freshwater lake was dug out by Monks, for water and for fish.   

A Swallow flies over the Lough

We continue on the path until it meets the marker post for 'Straight Lonnen'. This will take us back to our starting point back in the village. There is a detour at this point if you turn right though. Tough the dunes and to the bay. Seals are regularly seen and a variety of seabirds. There are around 4,000 Gray Seals on the sands, rocky shores and mudflats of Lindisfarne.

We return the village for a welcome brew, Green Tea in my case and prepare for the rest of the trip.

Lindisfarne is a special place , there is no doubt. There has been life here since the Stone Age, some 10,000 years ago. It is a very important location for Christianity. Possibly the holiest site of Anglo-Saxon England, The famous Saints associated with the island are Aidan, A monk and Missionary from Iona. Cuthbert was a solitary leader and healer who struggled with the demands of the world and his calling.

Aidan was invited to the island by the King of Northumbria, Oswald in 633. The original monastery was rampaged and destroyed by The Vikings. The Rainbow Arch is an iconic image of the old Priory. Saint Cuthbert would later succeed Aidan in 684 as Bishop of Lindisfarne, starting as a Prior around 665. Cuthbert retired in 676, moved by the desire for a quieter life.St Cuthbert Island (also known as Hobthrush island) is located just off Holy Island. As the tide rises, it becomes completely separated from Holy Island. The legend is that St Cuthbert used to escape here when he wanted to retreat away from the monks in the abbey.  St Cuthbert died in 687, his body entombed in Durham Cathedral. 

Statue of St Aidan

St Cuthbert's Island

While the medieval Monks held their services inside the Priory, the Church of St Mary the Virgin was used by the parishioners. It is immediately to the west of the Priory church. 

The present church is built over and around an earlier Saxon Church. Likely to be the site f the first wooden church built by St Aidan. It is possible that St Mary's remained in use through the period between 875 when the monastery may have been abandoned and the founding of the Priory in the early 12th century. 

 

St Mary's Church

'The Heugh' (pronounced ‘Hee-uff’) is an elevated rocky ridge  created by magma 295 million years ago. It rises above the village and is known to geologists as the Holy Island Dyke. It is the site of a former Coastguard observation tower that is now open to the public. I climbed up the stairs to a stunning 360-degree view of the island. The Heugh is also home to the war memorial, designed by Lutyens, and which commemorates islanders who died in the two world wars.More distant views across the sea to The Farne Islands and Bamburgh castle are to the south. Closer to home there are great views of the priory (to the north) the harbour and the castle (to the east) and St Cuthbert's Island (to the west).  

It has been a fantastic visit , in the distance cars are starting to queue on the causeway as the tide retreats. Time for us to make our way back to Alnwick too I suspect!

The Farne Islands Boat Trip and Bamburgh Castle

A good breakfast has set us up nicely for a day by the sea.We have driven up the coast to the fishing village of 'Seahouses' The perfect place for a boat trip to the Farne Islands. From the harbour we can see the Farne Islands in the distance. To our left we can see the imposing sight of Bamburgh Castle. Unfortunately we are a bit late to see the famous 'Puffins' that breed on the islands in their thousands. In fact as many as 70,000. April until July is the best time to see them. There is a chance we might see the odd one on the water though. We should see plenty of other bird-life as well as Grey Seals. We have opted not to get off the boat (an extra £13 National Trust landing fee). Instead we shall take the 1.5 hour cruise around the islands. 

There are between 15 and 20 islands depending on the level of the tide. They lie 2-3 miles off the Northumberland coast. They are separated by 'Staple Sound' as an 'Inner' and 'Outer' Group.  Inner Farne is the largest and most historic island, gives its name to the whole group.     

The conditions are good and no signs of any sea sickness. Through the binoculars I've spotted, Razorbills, Shags, Guillemots and the spectacular diving Gannets. The island cliff faces have a white appearance from a covering of bird droppings.  

Longstone Lighthouse is an active 19th century lighthouse on Longstone Rock in the outer group. It gained fame in 1938 following the wreck of ' Paddle Steamer 'Forfarshire'. Grace Darling aged 22 and her Lighthouse Keeper father initiated a rescue of nine people in a strong gale and thick fog, the vessel having run aground on Harcar Rock. The story of the rescue made headline news and made Grace Darling a heroine who has gone down in British folklore.

We are starting to see a few Grey Seals, also known as Atlantic Grey Seals. basking on the rocks. In the Autumn around 3,000 pups are born. They were prized by the Monks in the 12th Century for their Oil and as a food. There is one huge Seal close to us with their tail in the air. My phone camera doesn't do it justice at all.. With the tide coming in his comfortable perch is going to be very short-lived.   

As well as all the wildlife, there is a strong link with Celtic Christianity and St Cuthbert who lived here in the 7th Century. The islands are first recorded in 651, when they became home to Saint Aiden. Remains still exist of the seventh-century anchorite cell used by Saint Aidan and Saint Cuthbert, as do the remains of a 14th-century chapel associated with the cell. Known as St Cuthbert's Chapel.

The islands have no permanent population, but National Trust Rangers live on the islands for nine months of the year, maintaining the site and monitoring wildlife. 

Hundreds of ships have been wrecked on the Farnes over the years, providing plenty for wreck divers to explore.

All too soon we are heading back towards the harbour. It has been a really enjoyable boat trip and good value at £20. Looking forward to a nice pint now in the Ship Inn Beer Garden overlooking the sea.  

Suitably refreshed we set off through the sand dunes towards Bamburgh. It is around a 3 mile walk and much better than moving the car.     

It's very pleasant walking conditions although quite a strong breeze. The tide is still high so we weave between the dunes and the beach. The last stretch towards Bamburgh we complete on the road. Plenty of cars filling the car parks opposite the castle. At least we don't have to worry about that. We get our first close up view of Bamburgh Castle, an impressive one it is too!

Standing guard above the spectacular Northumberland coastline for over 1,600 years. Spanning nine acres of land on its rocky plateau site was originally the location of a Celtic Brittonic fort known as Din Guarie. First built by the Normans it has been added to over the centuries.

 

 

Bamburgh was The first castle in England to fall to canon fire as the Wars of Roses drew to a close.Bought by the First Lord Armstrong in 1894 it is still owned by the Armstrong family who play an active part in its operation and maintenance.  We walk right up to the entrance but decide not to go inside today. The Vikings continually laid siege to the castle. In 993 AD it was finally ransacked. During the Second World War, pillboxes were established in the sand dunes to protect the castle and surrounding area from German invasion Bamburgh Castle is one of the largest inhabited castles in the country. Still in the ownership of the Armstrong family.  

Bamburgh Castle from the beach

 

We drop back down through the sand dunes to the beach. Totally unspoilt there are miles of lovely white sand and very few people. Just as we settle down for a bit of a rest the sun disappears and the wind gets up. We are getting well and truly sandblasted. We soon give up and continue a slow walk back to Seahouses. Now the tide has retreated there are plenty of rock pools to explore.It must rate as one of the best British beaches. It has been a great walk and we are really looking forward to Fish and Chips back at Seahouses!

Alnwick Castle

It's a slightly inauspicious start to our Birthday trip 'up North' to Northumberland. Parking in the County Town 'Alnwick' is at a premium. 'Its Market Day ' a helpful gentleman, who has moved up from Silverstone tells me. His passion is sea swimming, so it made a lot of  sense to leave Northamptonshire. We eventually park up outside our hotel , although it is a 2 hour limit. A much needed brew is in order. Unfortunately driving rain has now set in, at least we are in the dry and can wait it out. 

Alnwick Castle

Things improve rapidly! It stops raining and we find out there are two free all day car parks behind the hotel. Safely checked in to the hotel we set off to do some exploring in Alnwick. We are 32 miles south of Berwick Upon Tweed on the Scottish border. It was a staging post on the Great North Road, between Edinburgh and London. The town dates to about AD 600 and thrived as an agricultural centre. There are many attractions to the town, the biggest though would have to be the Castle. was the home of the most powerful medieval northern baronial family, the Earls of Northumberland. It is mid to late afternoon and we take a wander to have a look. It is now the home of Ralph Percy, 12 Duke of Northumberland. The Percy family were powerful lords in northern England.Henry Percy 1st Earl of Northumberland (1341-1408) rebelled against King Richard II,and helped dethrone him.The earl and his son Harry Hotspur later rebelled against King Henry IV.The Castle was at the centre of hostilities during the 'War of the Roses'.

Gun Terrace

It goes without saying almost just how impressive the Castle actually is.It is the second largest inhabited castle in England after Windsor Castle. Apparently it is the 10th most visited stately home in the UK. The popularity has no doubt increased following its use as 'Hogwarts' in the Harry Potter series of films. I notice that 'Broomstick Training' is provided in the 'Outer Bailey' Certainly something to consider perhaps? It is in the 'Artisans Courtyard where I find me true calling. My potential is spotted and I'm immediately upgraded to 'Knight' status. I think I looked the part too?  

Barbican Tower

From the Gun Terrace there is a smashing view of  'Lion Bridge' in the distance. The most famous bridge on the River Aln. It was built by John Adam in 1773 for the first Duke of Northumberland and is an early example of Gothic Revival style. Later that day , early evening time we took a wander down to the bridge. Looking southeast from the bridge is a magnificent view of Alnwick Castle and the Pastures. There is a photo below of that particular view. From the town centre there is also a nice view of the castle. 

View from the Town

Our evening wander took us past the statue of 'Henry Percy'. whose speed and ability on the battlefield earned him the the nickname 'Harry Hotspur'. Alnwick's most famous Knight and one of Shakespeare's best known characters (Henry IV Pt1). An interesting  fact about the statue is that nobody knows what Hotspur looked like as he was always depicted with his visor down. Earl George Percy , the heir to the current Duke, was used as a model instead. 

It has been a great start to our few days in Northumberland!