Newquay Fistral Beach Walk from Porth

Cornish Fisherman mural

It has been one of those awful days with nothing but driving rain.Thankfully the skies have cleared a little, enough to offer some encouragement at least. There is though the threat that the heavens could open up again at any minute. As a result it's a brisk walk from Porth to the centre of Newquay. Because of the awful weather none of the Pasty shops have ordered in many supplies. All that seems to be left are 'Cheese and onion', or even worse 'Fake Steak'. Whatever that might consist of. When I was here last time an Artist had just started work on a large wall mural. At that time it was impossible to see what it was going to be. Now it is finished it looks fantastic in all it's glory. 

Leaving Newquay Town Centre behind I cut across the Golf Course which overlooks the world famous surfing spot of Fistral Beach. The rain is never going to be far away today. Not something that will deter the surfers of course. There must be at least 50 in the water at the moment. The darkening and   foreboding skies create something of a Gothic look. I walk down to the sand and make my way along towards the headland in the direction of Pentire.

I wanted to get to the furthest point on the headland. Unfortunately time is against me and I don't quite get there. Fistral is considered the home of British surfing due to its consistent waves, ideal conditions, and rich history in the sport.The famous Boardmasters is also held here along with Watergate Bay. A five day competition held over the second weekend in August. The beach is approximately 750 meters in length. Backed by steep sand dunes and overlooked by the prestigious Headlands Hotel. I trace my path back down the hill, taking the SW coast path instead of walking on the beach. It leads to the golf course path that I had previously taken. I make my way down towards the harbour.

 

 

Newquay Harbour

Newquay Harbour is a fishing and pleasure Harbour,the largest fishing port on the North Cornwall coast. 

I move down to Towan Beach, in the heart of the town. A very traditional beach with a very unique feature. It has a house on an island complete with a private bridge. I think the house is now rented out as an Air B & B. A really striking feature which has always fascinated me. I will make my way back to Porth via a few other Newquay beaches which I have previously written about. 

A Seagull at Mount Wise

The link to the previous walk mentioned above is listed below.

http://peterja-storytellersnight.blogspot.com/2024/10/newquay-beaches-walk.html

 

 

Padstow and Rock St Enodocs Church Walk

 

Padstow Harbour

No trip to Cornwall would be complete without a trip to Padstow. A picture postcard fishing port on the West bank of the River Camel. It is still a working harbour, and part of the ancient pilgrim route known as the Saints’ Way. Even though the school holidays are over it is still very bust with visitors. We have taken the bus today,  always an interesting experience through the narrow Cornish lanes.

Pubs, tea-rooms and shops line the harbour

The plan today is to take the Ferry across to Rock, however there is a slight delay as we wait for the tide to come back in. Time well spent though in The Harbour Inn, where a lovely pint of 'Tribute' was enjoyed. The pub is also the stable of the 'Obby Oss'. A folk custom that takes place on the 1st May each year. The 'Obby Oss' or hobby horse is made up of an oval frame covered in black oilskin, which has a small horse's head in the front with a snapping jaw. A procession then takes place with lots of music and singing around the town. We finish our drinks and wander back to the ferry port for the 10 minute trip across to Rock.

Daymer Bay looking across to Padstow

The tide hasn't fully come in so we are dropped off a bit shorter than the usual point. We make our way across the golden sands of Daymer Bay on what is now a beautiful day. The beach is within the mouth of the Camel Estuary so is pretty sheltered and has a gently sloping beach making it safe for swimming. I can't remember walking it previously? At south the end of the beach is the grassy mound of Brea Hill which is where you would get some great views of the area. It is a lovely stretch of beach and bordered by dunes and sandhills.We walk towards the car park and turn off to the golf course, circling Brae Hill. We are looking for St Enodoc Church, Sinking Neddy as it is sometimes referred to due to it's close relationship with the sea and sand.

St Enodocs Church

The church literally stands amongst the fairways of St Enodocs Golf Club. It is a beautiful setting in the shadow of Brae Hill and the high dunes. From the sixteenth century to the middle of the nineteenth century, the church was virtually buried by the sand. By 1864 it was unearthed, the sand was removed and the church was cleaned and restored under the direction of the vicar of St Minver. The church is said to lie on the site of a cave where 'Enodoc' lived as a Hermit.

The former Poet Laureate, Sir John Betjeman was particularly fond of it and he lies buried in the churchyard. Betjeman spent many childhood holidays in Trebetherick. He immortalised the area in some of his poems describing the stretch of coast at Trebetherick between Daymer Bay and Polzeath. He clearly had great affection and familiarity with this part of the Cornish coast. 

Then roller into roller curled
And thundered down the rocky bay,
And we were in a water world
Of rain and blizzard, sea and spray,
And one against the other hurled
We struggled round to Greenaway.
Blesséd be St Enodoc, blesséd be the wave,
Blesséd be the springy turf, we pray, pray to thee…

St Enodocs Golf Course

We carefully make our way back through the Golf Course, keeping a watchful eye for errant flying objects.It's a lovely course, looking lush following the recent rain. We make a small unplanned detour across the dunes, with the help of a local lady we soon get back on track. It is then only a short walk along the sea front to get back to the Ferry point. We don't have long to wait either as passengers are already spilling onto the jetty. This time as you will see on the map the course is slightly different , more direct as the tide is at it's highest now   

We arrive back in Padstow in time for the Bus at either 5 or 6pm We opt for the latter. Well, we are on holiday after all and there is no rush. Tempting as it is I resist the option of the Tribute Ale.I wouldn't wish to disturb the 'Obby Oss'. We enjoy a traditional Pasty on the quayside instead. It has been a lovely excursion and great walk at around 5 miles in total.

Mawgan Porth to Trevose Head on the SW Coast Path

Beach at Mawgan Port

I'm feeling really excited about the walk today. Despite over fifty years of visiting Cornwall I have never walked the South West Coast Path between Mawgan Porth as far as Treyarnon Bay. The sun is shining and there are beautiful blue skies all around. I have been dropped off at the car park in MP, and it is time to get going!  

Everything is set fair perfectly. The only unknown is whether my knee will hold up? The Operation was less and a month ago, and knee still quite swollen. The Consultant advised me to take things steady. The beach at MP looks massive with the tide out (Low tide) The path on the other cliff looks very imposing, as it rises through the gorse. Thats another leg I will need to do at some point as far as Watergate Bay. But thats all for another day, time to focus on this particular walk. 

The views looking towards 'Park Head' are dramatic, the breakers are rolling in as we head towards the famous 'Bedruthan Steps'. Unfortunately access to the beach is now closed off following a significant rock fall. However I ddid see several people down on the beach. They mist have found another access point as the gate is securely locked.It would have been great to get down again. I remember as a child being quite intimidated by the massive rock stacks.    

The name Bedruthan Steps is said to be taken from a mythological giant called Bedruthan, who used the rocks (stacks) on the beach as stepping stones. However it has been de-bunked as a late-19th-century invention for Victorian tourists. Each of the stacks has a name and from north to south they are Queen Bess, Samaritan Island, Redcove Island, Pendarves Island, and Carnewas Island. Queen Bess rock was so named as it was supposed to resemble the outline ofQueen Elizabeth I.Sadly the head was lost after a storm in 1981. Samaritan Island is named after a ship the Good Samaritan, which was wrecked there in October 1846 with the loss of nine lives.

 

Porthcothan Beach

Close to Diggory's Island there is a potential route down to the beach. However a prominent sign warns of being cut off by the tide. It is currently a 'Spring tide' meaning it will be coming in quickly. Not to mention the path ending in a sudden drop and loose rock.. Not quite what my knee Consultant had envisaged. For once I opted for common sense and continued on my way. The path winds inwards close to Porth Mear, dropping down to shore level. It then climbs again as we approach Porthcothan Beach.Once again despite being narrowit looks a huge expanse of sand. At low tide it opens out to join with small coves to the north and south. 

At high tide the beach is sheltered from swells and winds by the hig craggy cliffs. Both the beach and the clifftop fields nearby were the location for filming of the TVseries Poldark. Especially the scenes with Ross riding his horse.There are plenty of surfers down below enjoying some decent waves. There are also quite a few walkers enjoying the early Autumn sunshine. It really is glorious. Like Mawgan Porth it is another beach that despite coming to Cornwall for well over 55 years I have few memories of. I'm sure we would have come here as a family when I was a young child. It is a shame because they are both absolutely stunning.

First view of Treyarnon Bay

Treyarnon Bay will always be a special place for me. I feel quite emotional, as I pay homage to the little caravan site we always stayed on as a family. How could things have turned so sour? Such happy memories of a time when things were more carefree. At least they feel that way now, perhaps they weren't? Different times, something I looked forward to for months. That first sighting of the sea was a special moment. I feel it strongly, a head full of memories a young family run excitedly through the gap in the Tamarind hedge. The same gap I would have passed through before they were even born. It's quite a realisation and I feel old. Another couple sit outside their caravan. They look at me slightly susspiciously. If they were to question me I would tell them, I felt the need in that moment to let everything out.Instead I give a brief nod of the head and make my exit.

A perfect viewpoint

It's good to see the natural swimming pool at Tryarnon Bay. I earnt myself 50p as a youngster swimming the length of it. It felt like the size of an Olynpic swimming pool at the time. The stretch of headland between Treyarnon and Constantine is something to behold. A walk I've made probably a hundred times or more maybe? The bench as you approach Constantine is very special indeed. Look to your right and you see the stretch of golden sand an the rock pools. To your left and you have the roaring ocean and all its glory. I could sit for hours! Tempting as it might be I continue across the sands towards Boobys Bay.   

Lifeboat Station Mother Ivey's Bay

I take a slight detour to Mother Ivey's Bay, rather than continue to Trevose Head Lighthouse. I will circle back that way instead. Another nice bench on the headland , this time I do take advantage for a brief rest on the East side of the headland. The name Mother Ivey's Bay first appeared in 1870 and is named after a local wisewoman and White Witch.

Padstow Lifeboat Station has been based at Trevose Head since 1967 It is run by the Royal National Lifeboat Institution. Before that it was at Hawker's Cove on the Camel estuary.

 

Trevose Head looking back to Constantine

The Lighthouse loop completed, I track back towards Constantine Bay. This has to be one of my favourite places to spend time.Talking of time, It's time for the boots to come off.  I paddle the length of the bay and it feels wonderful. It's coming towards the end of the walk sadly. A distance of 12 miles has been covered and I've loved every second of it. At times the emotions have been stirred, but that can be a good thing. All that remains is to walk up the lane at Constantine and catch up with Marina who is giving me a lift back to Newquay. You didn't think I was walking back did you ?